quick ibeam question
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Senior User
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quick ibeam question
I've got a 76 F100 Shortbed w/ 302 3spd manual 2wd. i've seen 3" lowering springs for only $89. What I'm curious about is if it would cause uneven tire wear or alignment problems. i know these ibeams are tricky. thanks.
-dan
-dan
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 350
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From: Friendswood TX
Here's a way to tell - use a spring compressor and lower the truck three inches. I think you will see a bunch of negative camber in the tires which means the inner edge will wear (but she will corner like hell!). I think the right way to lower the front is to find the source for the I-beams that have been built to raise the spindle.
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yeah i was afraid about the camber. the reason i asked is ibeams to lower 3" are about $500, and $89 is a bargain for a 3" drop. Great idea about the spring compressor... i may do that! thanks
-dan
-dan
Mountain Pass
Joined: Dec 2005
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From: Oakville
Where did you find the springs? I have an F250 that used to be lowered back in the Eighties, well before drop beams, and the previous owner had the I-beams recambered to maintain the correct static wheel camber. With stock springs back in the nose of the truck, you can measure the positive camber in inches.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2005
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From: Hartford, AL
It will probably wear the inside edge faster, but I'm dropping mine with the spring. couldn't be that bad, that sag after a few years anyway. I would have to go through 2 sets of front tires before I made up the difference in cost of the beams.
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23racer - truckn-store.com is where i found the $89 3" cheap ones. blueovaltruckparts.com has $200 2" drop springs... if you want to waste money for 1" higher...
73FOMO - yeah im thinkin the same way... a few sets of tires is way less than the new ibeams, and i heard ibeams are hard to change anyway. if you lower yours before i lower mine, post some pics please...
Boltgunner - I'll probably rent a couple spring compressors tomorrow and see what the camber looks like... I think it might not be that bad to have a crazy camber because like you said earlier, it'd corner like hell.
Thanks to everyone for their help!
-dan
73FOMO - yeah im thinkin the same way... a few sets of tires is way less than the new ibeams, and i heard ibeams are hard to change anyway. if you lower yours before i lower mine, post some pics please...
Boltgunner - I'll probably rent a couple spring compressors tomorrow and see what the camber looks like... I think it might not be that bad to have a crazy camber because like you said earlier, it'd corner like hell.
Thanks to everyone for their help!
-dan
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From: Friendswood TX
One other little detail - after you shrink the springs 3" go look at the clearances between the suspension and the rest of the truck to make sure the lost suspension travel does not become an issue if you smack a pothole.
Cheers!
Cheers!
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From: CA
I tried this a number of years back by cutting three or so (can't remember) inches height off the coils. You'll go through those two sets of tires rather fast! The only proper way is with the dropped beams, which I just discovered are not that hard to swap out.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2005
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From: Hartford, AL
If you cut 3 inches of vertical height off your spring you will get 6" inches of drop, and I'm sure you would go through rubber. Only take half the vertical height off the spring if you cut the coil. I cut one coil which was 1" inch, for 2" inches of drop. I have talked to several spring manufacturers and they said this was the "correct" way to cut springs. I would remove a little at a time to make sure you don't go to far.
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Joined: Oct 1999
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From: Southeast PA
How much drop would 6-cylinder coils give on a truck originally with a 351M? Just asking because this topic seems to come up rather frequently. I have a '78 F150 that originally had a 351M and now has a 351W with alum. intake and headers and no a/c(i.e. a bit lighter, probably closer to a stock 302 in terms of weight) but was wondering if you could get 2-3" drop from some 6-banger springs.
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Stiffer springs=handle better
Stiffness is determined by spring rate.
I believe stock 351 springs are around 320 lbs/in.
I would guess the 6 cyl are closer to 250 lbs/in.
If you want your truck lower to look cool, and don't care if it handles like a shopping cart, then go ahead.
As far as the I-beams go, a couple years ago, I dropped them for my buddy. Assuming you don't care a whole bunch about ground clearance, this is the way to go. The upper mounts are bolted through the bushing, and riveted to the engine crossmember. Grind the heads off the rivets and pund em out. Then relocate your brackets lower, and bolt the i-beams back on. I recommend drilling new holes lower and using some nice grade 8's, but if you've got enough confidence in your welding...
-kit
Stiffness is determined by spring rate.
I believe stock 351 springs are around 320 lbs/in.
I would guess the 6 cyl are closer to 250 lbs/in.
If you want your truck lower to look cool, and don't care if it handles like a shopping cart, then go ahead.
As far as the I-beams go, a couple years ago, I dropped them for my buddy. Assuming you don't care a whole bunch about ground clearance, this is the way to go. The upper mounts are bolted through the bushing, and riveted to the engine crossmember. Grind the heads off the rivets and pund em out. Then relocate your brackets lower, and bolt the i-beams back on. I recommend drilling new holes lower and using some nice grade 8's, but if you've got enough confidence in your welding...
-kit
Freshman User
Joined: Oct 1999
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From: Southeast PA
Hey Poker,
Good point. You know, I was thinking of the static stance of the truck but you bring up a great point about handling... without sway bars (they're actually next on the project list, not lowering....yet), the thing handles like a school bus already so softer springs definitely aren't the way to go.
As some folks keep saying, I think beams really are the way and only way to go if you want to keep all the benefits. I guess when you boil it down like that, $500 ain't that bad if you can swing it.
Good point. You know, I was thinking of the static stance of the truck but you bring up a great point about handling... without sway bars (they're actually next on the project list, not lowering....yet), the thing handles like a school bus already so softer springs definitely aren't the way to go.
As some folks keep saying, I think beams really are the way and only way to go if you want to keep all the benefits. I guess when you boil it down like that, $500 ain't that bad if you can swing it.
Last edited by Claude; Mar 3, 2006 at 07:52 PM.