Removing and handling cab
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2004
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From: Travelers Rest SC
Removing and handling cab
I'm getting very close to my frame swap on my '64, but I'm a lit bit afraid of removing and working on the cab. On the donor truck, I un-bolted the cab and rolled it off single handedly- NOT what I want to do w/ the '64! I am going to make a temporary A-frame w/ a chain hoist to lift it. Should I just run a 4X4 through the door openings, or is the roof not strong enough? I also thought about some kind of platform underneath, with a sling to pick it up by. Any ideas? Or should I just get 4 big guys and feed 'em lunch afterward? Also (more important) How do I work on the underside of the cab, namely, new cab mounts? Can the cab be safely laid on its back without damaging it? I don't like the idea of trying to replace cab mounts lying on my back.
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 2,697
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From: Vancouver
Four guys can handle the cab - it's a lot easier with the doors off - and you can lay it down on its back on a couple of (inflated) inner tubes. You might want to put a tarp over the tubes to avoid transferring rubber to any bare steel.
Eric
Eric
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Joined: Jan 2004
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I saw a pic of a guy moving one with a engine hoist, he made a mount that bolted to the seat or seatbelt holes and it was pretty well balanced. I just moved a bare 66 4x4 cab with one other guy, three would be ideal for a more precise control. I like the inner tube idea, thats not a bad way to do it.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 24,552
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From: Creedmoor, North Carolina
Jay, Weight is not so much the issue, the cab is big, bulky and no place to grab (guessing 3-400 pounds tops). The roof will support the load as long as it isn't damaged or rotted. You may find it better to use a big nylon strap. That chain and anchor system with the cherry picker looked awesome, but the lift can be done with a lot less work with a strap and hoist from overhaed. I would lift it with the doors in. Wraps at contact points would be good. IMHO
John
John
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From: Eastern Shore, Md.
4 people can pick them but they're heavy, I used my engine hoist, bolted angles to the seat mounts the balance point for cab with no glass or doors, I believe was about 11'' fwd of the fwd seat bolts, it worked very well for me. Do not try to pick it up by the roof only, I know someone who twisted a perfectly good cab by doing that.
Charlie
Charlie
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 1999
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From: Creedmoor, North Carolina
Originally Posted by 66fdtrucknut
4 people can pick them but they're heavy, I used my engine hoist, bolted angles to the seat mounts the balance point for cab with no glass or doors, I believe was about 11'' fwd of the fwd seat bolts, it worked very well for me. Do not try to pick it up by the roof only, I know someone who twisted a perfectly good cab by doing that. Charlie
John
Posting Guru
Joined: Apr 2004
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From: Eastern Shore, Md.
I know him personally and he used a overhead lift. John, I noticed you said with doors on, I'm talking roof only, no doors. What else could you use to lift it from overhead, besides a lift.
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I tkink the best way if using a lift is with doors off using two 4+4's ,each pushed agaist the front and back uprights and two short 4=4's bolted or nailed to the long ones at each end , this puts all the weight on the two upright and the back of the cab. But 4 guys can walk it to the end of the frame and then tilt it down and pull the frame out pretty easy. have some old tires sitting around in case it fall to absorb impact....dont hurt your backs, really not worth it..
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Brett Foote
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 1999
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From: Creedmoor, North Carolina
Originally Posted by 66fdtrucknut
I know him personally and he used a overhead lift. John, I noticed you said with doors on, I'm talking roof only, no doors. What else could you use to lift it from overhead, besides a lift.
A couple o big arm guys can lift the weight ok, shouldn't be more than 300lbs or so.
I was impressed with the cherry picker lift, nice and clean.
John
Logistics Pro
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 4,644
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From: Moro Bay, AR
I have rigged up a piece of 2" pipe with loops at each end to hook chains in. The pipe is wrapped in several layers of old carpet for padding. This setup has pulled many cabs, from small PUs to OTR trucks. I have never damaged a cab by lifting it with the doors removed.
Jeff
Jeff
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Joined: Jun 2002
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From: Red Deer Canada
I used a 4x4 post through the door holes (doors removed) and a sling on either side of the post. Hooked the sling to a chain hoist which was supported on a piece of pipe which spanned 4 ceiling joists of my garage. I had no issues. Just lifted the cab off and rolled the frame away. Before rolling the frame away I fixed the floor by laying the cab on it's back on the frame. I did this by myself and it was easy.
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2004
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From: Travelers Rest SC
I used a cherry picker when taking the cab off my '40, but I don't remember how I attached it. I made a wood dolly to fit the cab. I rolled the hoist away from the frame sideways, then set the cab down on the dolly. That '40 cab was a lot lighter, though. I like the idea of working on the cab underside with it laying on the old frame. I could put some plywood down, then inner tubes, and get some buddies to roll it back. That way, it'll be ready for the new frame. I have a problem in my neighborhood with nosy neighbors who call the city if you work on cars in the driveway. My garage is too small and low for this kind of work, so I need to be able to get everything back in the garage after the weekend, or I'll get (another) visit from the city. I guess while I have the cab rolled back, I could remove the cab mounts from the '64 frame, and put them on the donor. When the 'big day' comes, I'll have a place to put the '64 cab right away. Thanks for all the suggestions, guys!
Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2005
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From: Madison, SD
I made a harness, the 4 ends of it attach to the cab. 2 to the seat belt mounts, one on each side, the other two attach where the lower door hinges bolt on, one on each side. I attach the other end of the harness to my cherry picker with the lift arm ran through the door opening. Works great, 1 guy can remove the cab and move it anywhere in the shop.
Next shop equipment project is going to be a rotisseire for the cab with a different set of mounts for the box. Way too old to lay on my back and work on a cab. If you want to just lay the cab on it's back to work on the bottom, a big furniture moving pad works great!!!
Next shop equipment project is going to be a rotisseire for the cab with a different set of mounts for the box. Way too old to lay on my back and work on a cab. If you want to just lay the cab on it's back to work on the bottom, a big furniture moving pad works great!!!
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2005
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From: Berthoud, Colorado
I used an engine hoist to get my cab off my 66 and did it by my self. I used a piece of square tubing 2" and put a piece of angle iron on each end. I used my hitch for my reciever hitch and turned the ball upside dow and used it that way. I also put a small piece of 2" ID square tubing in the middle of the other 2" in the center, and lifted it that way with the doors on and by picking it from the bottom of the roof, and NO damage, I have done this several times with my truck.