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1961 - 1966 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Slick Sixties Ford Truck

Removing and handling cab

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Old Jan 24, 2006 | 09:19 PM
  #16  
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petty437
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From: kent, ohio
I'm getting ready to do the same with my 62's cab. Thanks for all of the ideas!!
 
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Old Jan 25, 2006 | 09:57 AM
  #17  
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merkstang
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From: Lehigh Valley, PA
3 is a good number of guys but you dont want to Kill anyone youll need them again to move it arround and put it back on so maybe go with 4... dont want to agrivate the free help

We just lifted mine up an saw horses to work on the cab corners and floor.
We did it with 3 guys, 2 lifting and one for the saw horses.

Here are some Pics of my Project
http://www.picturetrail.com/gallery/...75&uid=1122213
 
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Old Jan 25, 2006 | 11:04 AM
  #18  
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garbz2
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From: Glendale Arizona
I use the will work for food program

Get a bunch of fellow Macers up for some grub, Sausage N Ziti works well,

And lift the cab, we did this on my crew with four and a half people.

Carried it off the rollback and over the rolling chassis and sat it in place.

Garbz
 
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Old Jan 27, 2006 | 08:42 AM
  #19  
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dinosaurfan
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From: SW Michigan
cab swaps

John, I think you're right about 'something else' being involved in the twisted cab story. When I swapped cabs on one of mine, there was a whole keg of 'something else' involved. I think we had twelve guys total, with eight of the bigger guys holding most of the weight. Swapped the cab, with doors on and seats inside, and front fenders and hood attached, all at once. that was when I was a much younger man. I think I would do the chain and beam method if I were to do it again. DF, @ work ( sorta )
 
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Old Jan 28, 2006 | 12:33 AM
  #20  
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Brian
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Cab removal

The 4 guy method is preferable. I did not have that luxury and was able to do it myself. I clamped 2 4x4s across the floor to the floor sill using jorgenson clamps. I then used bottle jack and blocking to lift it and rolled the chasis out from under it. I then lowered it onto a wood rig that kept it out 6 inched off the ground. I then did everything I could reach in that configuration. When I need to get under it made some brackets that attached to the hood hinge mounts and the cab supports. That allowed me to roll it forward and set it down on the firewall will working on it. I painted the lower surface then rolled it back onto the wood dolly for final paint. I removed and installed the bed the same way. It's amazing what you can accomplish when you have to. I was just cleaning things up last week end and found the mounts i weld up. if your interested in them i could send them to you. The casters were Harbor Freight 10" pnuematic. If your interested I also built a frame rostisseri out of wood and iron that worked great. Cost about $75 to make.
 
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Old Jan 28, 2006 | 05:04 AM
  #21  
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jowilker
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From: Creedmoor, North Carolina
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Dino, I hadn't intended to planned to post anymore on this. Should the opportunity come again, (I don't see it in the immediate future) I would remove the 6 bolts to the chassis, disconnect everything under the hood and lift the cab and front clip as a single unit from overhead by myself. I don't have it worked out, and would have to experiment with the lift points. I think it can be done rather easily and would make swapping sheetmetal to a newer chassis a better option that swapping the axles, steering under the old.

I have moved several beds by myself by having them upside down and crawling under them, lifting them with my back and standing them on end again.

I think creatitivity is the answer.

John
 
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Old Jan 29, 2006 | 08:01 AM
  #22  
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FLgargoyle
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From: Travelers Rest SC
Well, I dealt with the cab from the donor truck yesterday. I cut it into manageable pieces with a sawzall. It was actually fun, but I don't recommend doing that to the truck you intend to keep, unless you are a really good welder!
 
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