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Old Jan 19, 2006 | 08:32 AM
  #1  
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From: jersey shore
front clip

My 56 F100 has a volare front clip. Would replacing it with something like a new FATMAN front end be a major headache? It has 460/C6 combo now.
 
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Old Jan 19, 2006 | 08:51 AM
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Snake -

The link below is to the website of one of our Gurus here, John Niolon. He has installed both style front ends on his 53, which has a 460 in it. Sounds right up your alley. His articles are an easy and instructional read, so you'll get a very good idea of the difficulty involved in the project.

It would be of interest to us to know why you want to change from the Volare to an MII.

http://www.clubfte.com/users/jniolon/
 
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Old Jan 19, 2006 | 08:59 AM
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Thanks for your reply. I am thinking of change because front end feels extremely soft. I have to admit I have a 03 Cobra as daily driver and like the firmness. Could there be a method to beef up front end without change?
 
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Old Jan 19, 2006 | 09:09 AM
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Originally Posted by 03Snake
Could there be a method to beef up front end without change?
Depending on your torsion bar setting you might try tightening the setting. That will raise the truck some but it should stiffen the front suspension a little. Also, you could try some premium aftermarket shocks. Even at a couple of hundred bucks the shocks would be cheaper than changing out the front suspension...

Vern
 
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Old Jan 19, 2006 | 01:53 PM
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Once again thanks for your reply. I will try adjustment and shocks. This beast is so different from my Lightning and Cobra. This site is definitely the best for help-THANKS.
 
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Old Jan 19, 2006 | 02:34 PM
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If adjusting the settings raises it too much, it's either No Limit or Fatman (likely No Limit) that sell 2" dropped spindles for about $450. for the pair....
 
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Old Jan 19, 2006 | 02:55 PM
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These shocks made a VERY big difference on my 53.

KYB P/N KG4528 I believe they are the "Gas Adjust" line. About $30 each. Summit, among others carry them. Do not substitute the GR2 line from KYB. The GRs are softly valved like the standard Monroe and Gabriel lines.

Koni no doubt offers an adjustable shock, if you want to pay the price. I had every intention of upgrading to a 1 1/4 sway bar, but the shocks cured me so I didn't have to once I installed the firmer valved shocks.

You can try adjusting the torsion bars up for more firmness. Whether that will in fact firm up the ride has been debated ad nauseum here. It seems to help, but nobody has offered up a sound explanation of why. Trust me we tried.
 
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Old Jan 20, 2006 | 02:59 AM
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Larger diameter torsion bars is really the only way to firm up a torsion bar front end.

Aftermarket "fat bars" are available for most MoPar products....maybe including the ones you guys draft with
 
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Old Jan 20, 2006 | 08:16 AM
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Springs are not the problem, shocks are too soft. I'd suggest doing a search for all my posts on ride and handling discussions.
 
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Old Jan 20, 2006 | 09:17 AM
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I think you are going to be hard pressed to get it to handle like the cobra or the lighting but I would suggest changing the shocks like fenders said. You may want to install dropped spindles then you can tighten the bars a bit and still keep it in the weeds or like mine it just gets lower.

I have installed the shocks this winter hopfully that will be the answer and I am going to replace my modified lower arms with stock arms and dropped spindles.

Chuck
 
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Old Jan 20, 2006 | 09:39 AM
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'fenders is right. We did go through this very thoroughly about a year ago. My volare IFS feels stiff and I have it raised much higher than most. I would suggest following the cheapest course of action:
1. Do you want the front end higher? Try adjusting it and see if it helps. Once you find a height/stiffness scenario that you are happy with, take it to an alignment shop.
2. If raising the front end isn't effective or desirable, then spend some money on the new shocks as suggested above.
3. If that doesn't do the trick, maybe spending money on a beefier anti-sway bar would be the ticket.
Good luck, and come back with your solution. Jag
 
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Old Jan 20, 2006 | 12:03 PM
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First you must isolate the source of your complaint. Is it that the truck "floats" too much over undulations in the road while going straight? Is it the body rolls too much when turning or changing lanes? Does the suspension bottom out when hitting a good bump, i.e. railroad tracks? Is it a feeling of not responding quick enough or feels "numb" to steering inputs?

First thing I'd check: is the lower control arm parallel to the ground at rest?
Are the tires bias ply or radial, do they have enough air in them?
 

Last edited by AXracer; Jan 20, 2006 at 12:07 PM.
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Old Jan 20, 2006 | 02:58 PM
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Originally Posted by AXracer
First you must isolate the source of your complaint. Is it that the truck "floats" too much over undulations in the road while going straight? Is it the body rolls too much when turning or changing lanes? Does the suspension bottom out when hitting a good bump, i.e. railroad tracks? Is it a feeling of not responding quick enough or feels "numb" to steering inputs?

First thing I'd check: is the lower control arm parallel to the ground at rest?
Are the tires bias ply or radial, do they have enough air in them?
Add one more symptom Chuck's list.

Does it feel like your front bumper is going to grind asphalt when you hit the brakes firmly, even when driving slow?

We went round and round about the 14 things that could cause my all around mushiness. The dive was the giveaway that it was mostly a shock problem. My shocks may not have been 100% of the problem, but they were 100% of the cure. I've been changing out shocks with OEM quality stuff my entire life, and the results were always underwhelming. I was amazed what a decent shock can do. And that's all the KYBs I mentioned are. Just a decent shock. Not even close to an expensive and truly HP shock. I can only imagine what neat things a suspension tuner can accomplish with some adjustable Konis, on a suspension that's perhaps not otherwise perfect.

Regarding Merc546's comment that you aren't going to have a Cobra when you're done: He's surely correct, but there is no reason it won't stay flat in the curves, and ride smooth and straight done the road. Only disclaimer I might add is a BB-Auto combo. That might be pushing the capabilities of a Volare to the edge?
 
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Old Jan 20, 2006 | 03:58 PM
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Originally Posted by fatfenders
Add one more symptom Chuck's list.

Does it feel like your front bumper is going to grind asphalt when you hit the brakes firmly, even when driving slow?

We went round and round about the 14 things that could cause my all around mushiness. The dive was the giveaway that it was mostly a shock problem. My shocks may not have been 100% of the problem, but they were 100% of the cure. I've been changing out shocks with OEM quality stuff my entire life, and the results were always underwhelming. I was amazed what a decent shock can do. And that's all the KYBs I mentioned are. Just a decent shock. Not even close to an expensive and truly HP shock. I can only imagine what neat things a suspension tuner can accomplish with some adjustable Konis, on a suspension that's perhaps not otherwise perfect.
That's exactly the reason we buy $3K sets of hand built custom valved fully adjustable racing shocks for our AX racers! They are the greatest weapon we have in our suspension tuning arsenal. We can adjust the handling of our cars for any surface or weather conditions with the turn of a ****. The "name brand" manufacturers spend all their money on advertising and very little on making a quality product. OEM manufacturers pay less than $2.00 per shock, and they are better than most of the autoparts/bigbox store replacements!
 

Last edited by AXracer; Jan 20, 2006 at 04:00 PM.
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Old Jan 21, 2006 | 06:43 AM
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From: jersey shore
AXRacer- air is fine/radial tires. It tends to float as you mentioned and sway in the turns. I've always had good luck with QA 1 adjustable shocks. Will try them and sway bar adjustment. Front bumper is about 4'' off the ground right now so it most likely help a little.
 
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