Reverse eye springs
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 929
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From: S.C.
I used the rev. eye mono on the front of my 54 and got a 4 7\8 drop and used a 2" drop hanger on the rear shackle in the back (actual drop was 1.5") and relocated the forward hanger up on frame for the equal 1.5" drop. Will remove a leaf or two (to soften ride) when the complete body is back on to be sure of wheel clearance. Running 15x 7 with 235's on front and 15x10 on the back with a 275 rubber.(needs a 295 for better fit on rim)
Got my stuff from Rod at Hot Rod's, nice guy who was helpful with info.
Ed
Got my stuff from Rod at Hot Rod's, nice guy who was helpful with info.
Ed
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 3,005
Likes: 2
From: Santa Clarita
Ed, with all that suspension change and the reverse eye, did you have any problems with clearance between the frame and axle. I'm talking about travel. What did you do for shocks with that much drop? Curious......
Another Ed
Another Ed
New User
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 7
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i have main reversed eye front leafs came down 2 inches removed 2 extra leafs looked good just put it a 4 1/2 drop axle down low now just this a little at a time as money is real tight. do it yourself and save plus tons of fun
5th Wheeling
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 40
Likes: 0
From: California
I went for the reversed eye springs for the rear. I got the main leaf only pair from mid fifties. Then I pulled 3 leaves out to lower it more including the leaf just below the main leaf because it is too long to fit between the spring eyes. According to the instructions in the mid fifties catalog this is one of the springs I am supposed to leave in. I guess I am supposed to cut it off with a cutoff disc. What is wrong with just reusing the leaves with the clamps rivited on?
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 929
Likes: 0
From: S.C.
Ed 1 to Ed 2 come in.......
The distance between the axle and frame is much less, you have to lose the second (rearward) bumpstop on the frame rail above the springs. I also replaced the first bumpstop with a shorter poly one I found (made by daystar). As far as shocks, I removed the stock lower mount bracket for the front shocks and made my own in order to use shocks that had a post type end on the bottom. I found a short pair but will be replacing all four shocks with a nice chromed or billet set that are made for the proper length. The ones I have on now are an Ebay set that just happened to be the correct length for mock-up ($10.00 for all 4). As far as travel, with the stock set up and the original big-springy seat...I was bouncing around long after the bumps in the road were gone, so I'm looking forward to a little tighter ride....havnt got her together for an actual raod test as of yet.
Also gonna add a front sway bar, I'm told the stock one will work with the lowered front end...we'll see!
Ed
The distance between the axle and frame is much less, you have to lose the second (rearward) bumpstop on the frame rail above the springs. I also replaced the first bumpstop with a shorter poly one I found (made by daystar). As far as shocks, I removed the stock lower mount bracket for the front shocks and made my own in order to use shocks that had a post type end on the bottom. I found a short pair but will be replacing all four shocks with a nice chromed or billet set that are made for the proper length. The ones I have on now are an Ebay set that just happened to be the correct length for mock-up ($10.00 for all 4). As far as travel, with the stock set up and the original big-springy seat...I was bouncing around long after the bumps in the road were gone, so I'm looking forward to a little tighter ride....havnt got her together for an actual raod test as of yet.
Also gonna add a front sway bar, I'm told the stock one will work with the lowered front end...we'll see!
Ed
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