Hi I have an 86 BII 2.9L, auto tranny with automatic 4x4, the other day i stoped at a stop sign and when i took off again it would not shift out of 1st, manual first and second work, but 3rd, and over drive are dead, i believe this is due to the fact that manual first and second are hydralic so they should always work.

Anyways i like my B2 and overall its in pretty good shape, except for the 4x4, and i need a cheap option other that paying $1600 to aamco to have the transmision rebuilt. In this case i would be willing to try a pick and pull tranny and was wounding how much time is required from start to finish to perform this swap.

Another option I would consider is a auto tranny for a manual one since the one from the junk yard would have high milage and probably be near the end of its life, so how much time would this swap take from start to finish, would it cost significantly more.

I need this car back up and running as soon as possible since it is my primary mode of transportation to work, but yet i cant afford to have the work done at a tranny shop. Any advice, info, or other solutions would be greatly appriciated.

Thanks

 

Dude,

Call me at Admin note: see our guidelines about phone numberswe will help you out. ask for John

 

if you do all the work your slef the trans swap would be a good idea if youve got time you have to get a new ecu desinged for a manaul tranny you new to add a clutch pedal, and you may need to do some cuting to fit in the shifter in place of the old trans selector and maybe other stuff if everything work from the donor truck you should looking at around 160 TOPS in money spent but thats if you do it all and everything works from the donor trans i looked at the oil in the trans in my 1987 5 speed and it was still clear original oil from 1987 how about that so i wouldnt be surprised at all if nothing at all is wrong in a junkyard trans

 

If your going to rebuild that trans go for the hard repair not soft.I have both auto and sticks in my rigs i use them for snow plowing. I have done research on rebuilds and here is what i found. Most people hate the a4ld but if you do some rework they are great trans. First find a good rebuild guy not just the trans shop but some will know what to do. Mill the pump so you have max flow all the time keeps the oil cooler steal gears shift kit and extra cooler it cost a few bucks but you will have a strong trans mine hold 5 gal of synthetic oil but mine are for low end service.

 

FWIW, the only thing electronically controlled on your '86 A4LD is the torque converter lockup clutch, meaning that 3rd and 4th gear are hydraulically controlled just like 1st and 2nd. The only difference being that 1st and 2nd can be manually selected where 3rd and 4th can't.

'85-'87 A4LD's are the only years that are direct swaps for your '86. '88+ A4LD's used two solenoids in the valve body (3-4 shift and TCC lockup), so if you get a later A4LD, you'll need to come up with a way to control the 3-4 shift. Not necessarily a big deal, but thought you'd like to know.

Personally, I don't think I'd install a used A4LD without rebuilding it first (in that case, just rebuild the one you have).

If you decide to go so far as to put a manual transmission, try to get an M5 transmission from the later models. Of any 5 speed used in RBV's, the M5 seems to have the best reputation. If you get another 5 speed, try to get an FM146. The FM146 is (reportedly) the same length as an A4LD and therefore shouldn't required shortening/lengthening of the driveshafts.

 

The FM146 is not all that good of a trans. They are prone to Input Shaft Bearing failure, normally the sign of impending doom is a whine with the trans in neutral and clutch out. Get a M5OD from a newer ranger/explorer and it will last you a lot longer than the FM146.

I swapped the 146 out of my B2 after I went through the second one.. I put a M5OD in and could not be happier.

 

Is vacuum modulator hose still attached, and/ or vacuum at the modulator? Modulator failure ( or no vacuum) can cause a no upshift situation.

 

The vacume hose is connected and working perfectly.

 

Question on the M50D would i have to shorten or extend the drive shaft ends, and i have read confilicting reports on the FM146 some say they have had to adjust the drive shaft ends, so from some one who knows for sure is the FM146 a direct swap.

Thanks for all the help so far

 

The M5OD will be the same length. If you have a 4x4 the driveshafts both bolt to the transfer case so you won't need to change a thing since the transfer case will be the same. If it is a 2WD, well then im not too sure if you will need to change flanges. Although I don't see why you would.

FYI, the FM145 is 2" shorter than the 146, A4LD, and M5OD.

 

OK so correct me if i am wrong, but if i go to the junk yard and get a M5OD tranny, a clutch pedal, an engine computer for a manual?, and all the brackets and hardware that accompany these parts I should be able to install it with out haveing to change the way the tranny mounts, or altering the drive shaft. The only real mods i have to make may be enlarging the hole for the shifter, and cutting a hole, and installing the clutch. (if i missed a big item please tell me)
And this will all be compatiable with a 1986 Ford Bronco II with the electronic T-case. If i were to get all the parts and do it what would be a good estimate on time if everthing goes as planned, and an estimate for if everything goes wrong.

I am seriously considering this so if there was someway i could get a detailed parts list of what to make sure that i get such as brackets, as well as the big stuff i would be very greatful.

Quick side note if i replace the tranny with a manual i need to fix my tach, it seems to come and go but never goes above 1000rpm, it does somewhat corispond to the engine rmps just to a smaller scale so i believe it is a grounding problem, would that be a good asumption.

Thanks for all the help

 

You will also need the clutch master cylinder and the clutch fluid resivor. Will need the wiring harness that runs back to the 5-speed tranny. It will have two different plugs on the tranny end of it. The elec shift t-case should still work fine. You will just have to make sure to wire up the clutch safety switch (keeps truck from starting when clutch is not pressed in). If you don't get that switch wired up then the truck will not shift into 4-LO because it will think you are not holding the clutch pedal in. If you need anymore info feel free to e-mail me.


I don't have a parts list, but just compare best you can what you have and what you need from the donor truck.