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No, I haven't tried that. I did purchase a new button to insure that is was good. Unfortunatley, that wasn't my problem. Are you talking about checking the button itself?
What I was thinking is to trace the wires to where ever they go (I don't know where, sorry) and see if the signal is making it to the other end of the wire in the harness from the switch.
Opened my column up this past weekend. Everything looks good there. I guess the next step is to remove the suspect plug from the tranny and go through the wiring there. I suppose if this needs to be replaced, it is a dealer item and the whole harness would have to be replaced..
It depends on what kind of a problem you find there, if it is there. A broken wire can be repaired with solder and heatshrink tubing. HERE is a procedure (.pdf file) on how to remove the plug pins/connectors if a wire is broken off of one of those. I would say the only time a harness would have to be replaced is if a plug is totally shattered.
That was my thougt on the tranny side. This hasn't worked since the mechanic replace the torque. The wires on the main harness looks like he grabbed them instead of the harness and pulled. All have bare wire showing. I checked them visually and sealed them with silicone, but I think I will use a meter and check for continuity.
It depends on what kind of a problem you find there, if it is there. A broken wire can be repaired with solder and heatshrink tubing. HERE is a procedure (.pdf file) on how to remove the plug pins/connectors if a wire is broken off of one of those. I would say the only time a harness would have to be replaced is if a plug is totally shattered.
The wires are bare as the go into the plug. The plug itself is sealed. I would have the shatter the plug to gain access to the pins.
The wires are bare as the go into the plug. The plug itself is sealed. I would have the shatter the plug to gain access to the pins.
Does it have one of those red retainer clips? If so remove the red part and then all the connectors are easily removed by holding the little black plastic retainer back and sliding the conductor part out of the body of the plug.
Does it have one of those red retainer clips? If so remove the red part and then all the connectors are easily removed by holding the little black plastic retainer back and sliding the conductor part out of the body of the plug.
No it doesn't. I removed the little black retainer and slid it up, but the wires then go into the plug itself.
This is on a 99 F250 SD with a 7.3l. It is actually one of the 98.5.
That is close, but the plug that is damaged is on the passenger side just above the pan.
It is kind of an x-ray view. That would be the C168 connector - Automatic Transmission Module connector. HERE is a jpg file of the pin-out of that plug that may help if you try to trace the connections.
I guess the next step is to remove the suspect plug from the tranny and go through the wiring there.
The wiring from the pushbutton goes directly to the PCM. It does not go to the transmission. There is nothing at the trans plug that could cause the pushbutton to not work.
My understanding is that the button goes to the pcm. The pcm then triggers the tranny through this plug. Something has to tell the tranny to kick out of overdrive. There should also be a couple of wires that trigger the torque to lock. I have the diagrams of the electrical and am going through those.
My understanding is that the button goes to the pcm. The pcm then triggers the tranny through this plug. Something has to tell the tranny to kick out of overdrive. There should also be a couple of wires that trigger the torque to lock. I have the diagrams of the electrical and am going through those.
ggirten,
I have been having trouble with my transmission, won't go into D. any chance I could get a copy of the electrical diagrams for the pcm when you get time. Problem started after changing air filter and headlight bulbs so I think a poor connection somewhere.
Thanks
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