door ajar sensor...
Freshman User
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 41
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I had a mechanic friend tell me where it was. Inside the door, next to the latch. Could not get my arm to it so i just cut the wire, no more annoying dinging. But have to be careful about leaving lights on. Both of mine were out.
Freshman User
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 41
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My truck is an early 99 XL - no power nothing. The door ajar sensor wires were the only wires in the door. They (2 - I do not remember what color) were run along the bottom under the window glass then up to the sensor. Slipped off the door cover, cut and taped the end of the wires. But I learned the hard way to check if the lights were on. Came out one day to go to work and nothing.
Had left lights on and with the sensor wires cut, the truck thinks the door never opens so no beep with lights left on.
Had left lights on and with the sensor wires cut, the truck thinks the door never opens so no beep with lights left on.
Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 3,595
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From: Utah County, UT
Don't know your cab configuration, but it is usually the driver door as it is used the most. The switches themselves are not that hard to change out, remove two screws from the door panel, located behind relflector and under the switch panel on door, lift panel off, remove the three torx screws off the latch, followed by disconnecting electical to the solenoid and switch. the switch simply twists out.
New User
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 7
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yep... the door latch, where it hits the striker post is seized. Ford trucks are notorious for this .
spray a little PB blaster from AutoZone on the door side of the mechanism. Let it sit overnight, and spray with a good lubricant and your problems will go away.
I have 3 F350 crewcabs and the rear doors are know for this issue.
spray a little PB blaster from AutoZone on the door side of the mechanism. Let it sit overnight, and spray with a good lubricant and your problems will go away.
I have 3 F350 crewcabs and the rear doors are know for this issue.
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 177
Likes: 1
From: Mukwonago, WI
i just unplugged mine. i didnt want to cut the wires so later on when i decide to replace it i can. thw wd 40 didnt work for me
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 165
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From: Crook county, Illinois
I replaced my drivers door switch last year, about $17- $19 from the dealer, part #XF1Z.10B987.AA or XF1Z.14018.BA. It took about an hour. Now I think my rear door driversside switch is going bad. I am going to spray WD or PB on it and hope that does it. I tried it on the driver's door and it work for about 6mo. then went out all together.
Freshman User
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 49
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Originally Posted by 44990875
yep... the door latch, where it hits the striker post is seized. Ford trucks are notorious for this .
spray a little PB blaster from AutoZone on the door side of the mechanism. Let it sit overnight, and spray with a good lubricant and your problems will go away.
I have 3 F350 crewcabs and the rear doors are know for this issue.
spray a little PB blaster from AutoZone on the door side of the mechanism. Let it sit overnight, and spray with a good lubricant and your problems will go away.
I have 3 F350 crewcabs and the rear doors are know for this issue.
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nuknuk
1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
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Aug 22, 2016 04:55 PM
