1989 Ford f-150 5.0 302 EFI. Changed the EEC Relay, Fuel Relay, Starter Relay, Ignition Module, Charged Battery.

Engine cranks fine but won't turn over. I had to move the distributor over a little but I did not have to remove it. I've marked where it originated from so I think the timing would be okay. But the engine won't kick over.

Any thoughts on what to check from here?????

 

Your terminology is a bit confusing - cranking and turning over are the same thing. So I am assuming that when you turn the key, the engine spins but does not start. Is this correct?

Whenever it won't start, you need to isolate whether it's not starting because of air, fuel, or spark. You should check your fuel pressure at the schrader valve to verify the engine is actually getting fuel. Take one of the plugs out and hold it against the valve cover (with a pair of well-insulated pliars) to check for spark (you'll see it arc against the metal of the valve cover). If you (and the users here) know which of the 3 are missing, it will be much easier to get your truck up and running again!

Good luck!

-Chris

 

A familiar sounding issue...to me personally.

Fuel system: Verify that both fuel pumps (in-tank and frame rail) are in the game. You should hear them power up (whir) when the key is turned to accessory. If not, check and clean the electrical connections to each - and every other darn ground that you can find.

After that, use the Haynes manual (even with all of its faults and omissions) to keep troubleshooting. I ended up replacing my fuel pressure regulator for my problem, which was more of pressure problem. I had to crack the ignition key to accessory over and over to get the high pressure pump to charge the system up to adeqaute pressure to fire the engine.

Now I'm off to find threads on windshield leakage, because lately I've had to wear a raincoat INSIDE the truck!

 

I did everything you stated and got it to start and run for about 2 minutes. Went to take it for a drive and it went down the driveway and died again. Would not start after that. Any other ideas????

 

This development may point to a fuel supply problem - it's getting some but not enough and is starving. If so, then perhaps 1) a low pressure in-tank pump is weak or 2) the high pressure pump is weak or 3) the fuel regulator isn't regulating too well.

Did the truck start right up when you finally go it going or did it start like it was flooded (sputtered a bit then it finally coughed to life)?

I thought my regulator was the issue but I'm finding that it is probably either the high pressure fuel pump or the 6-port reservoir (dual tank switching unit). Since I'm now getting fuel from a beer making bucket in the bed, as both original tanks were junk, I'm going to try to bypass the 6-port next. I should have done this to begin with!!!

 

It started right up when I did it. No sputtering or anything. I was thinking the fuel regulator as a possiblity but I want to be sure instead of pissing away another 47.00 bucks. What do you think?

 

what about the fuel filter?? a plugged filter will do the same thing. stop flow under pressure, but let it sit, and the blockage will fall down till it is run again.

 

The filter is new

 

It does not take much at all to move the distributor enough to throw the timing off. Rent/buy/borrow a timing light and set it correctly. If you drive around with the timing set wrong, you can cause damage.

If you can't even get it to start, then it sounds to be fuel related to me. But when you get it running again, set your timing!

 

I had an '86 F150 that had fuel-supply issues due to a bad dual-function reservoir (the 6 port selector valve that was previously mentioned). I had run some bad gas, and since the dual-function reservoir was upstream of the actual fuel filter on the frame rail, the reservoir was ruined. My truck would start ok, but it just wouldn't run very well. It would starved for gas at around 1500 rpm.

I ended up bypassing the dual-function reservoir with a couple of pieces of fuel line tubing. Unfortunately, the reservoir not being there meant that I had to prime it several times (10 or more) to get it to start if it was parked on a hill facing up. There is a procedure in the Haynes manual to check to dual-function reservoir.

-Chris