When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
it started about a year ago when my heater in my truck decided it was gonna go off whenever it wanted and come back on a few min later. it didnt do it a whole lot but now its been doing it all the time, and for the last three days it hasnt come on at all. i dont know what the problem is. i was wondering if anyone in here might have a idea. i mean when it comes on it blows hot air great. can someone help me please. ( 1994 Ford Explorer XLT )
'94 is a generation before the blend door design issue so that shouldn't be it. Have you checked your coolant level to make sure it's full? Also, when you move the hot/cold lever, do you feel a feedback and hear something like the blend door moving? If not the cable may have come loose or something may be broken in the connection anywhere from the lever through the cable to the door. This is all assuming you mean it blows but not hot sometimes. If you mean the fan quits blowing, it could be a circuit breaker, or a motor problem, or a switch problem, or a problem with the resistor block.
Assuming you have a fan related issue, this sounds like a candidate for a failed blower motor relay. The tip off is intermittant operation; this frequently implies dirty/corroded contates on the relay. Also, don't overlook the possibility of corroded contacts on the relay as well as on the resistor cluster or the motor.
*The relay is located under the hood in the power distribution box; as I recall this box is located on the right side of the vehicle, up high, and along the fender.
i will have to check all that you have both said, but when i said it quits blowing im ean the whole thing shuts off it doesnt blow anything cold or hot.. now for the last three days its been coming on like a champ again lol. i dont know whats wrong with the thing..
I agree culprit is definitely elect. Can you look/ feel and wiggle the connector wires behind the dash? If so do it up close to the connection behind the switch and a little further away with fan on high. If this re-creates the problem a bad connection or broken wire is the suspect. And, where wires bend sharply or contact a sharp edge they can break inside the protective rubber casing (still look ok ) or wear through to contact metal via road vibration. One last longer shot does this occur mire on one setting, like defrost v. heat?
According to the wiring diagram (see here http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/g...3d800ba9d9.gif), there is no relay, but there is a thermal limter in the resistor block. If this is kicking it out, it could be because of a bad thermal switch or a bad motor. It does not show a relay in the circuit, so a faluty relay should not be an issue. It shows the power being supplied through fuse #9. See if this is a fuse or a circuit breaker. If it's a circuit breaker, that could be coming and going.
When it quits, does it quit on all speeds? If it will not run at all, that would point to something common to all speeds (Fuse/circuit breaker, motor, thermal limiter, switch, or a common wire.
Let us know how it's coming. Good Luck.............................
Well i went out there and check all the wired they all seem to be fine.. go figure.
anyway yes when it quites it quites all together nothing works not on low med or high. and it wont work on any setting def. pan, floor nothing. but its still working except for once yesterday i went to slow down for a stop light and the damn thing went off again. drove a few blocks down and it kicked back on.. i have no clue my husband and i are still trying to figure it out lol. i will let yall know what happens if we do ever figure it out.
I had the exact same problem with my 94 xlt. It turned out that a mouse had taken up residence between the blower motor and the AC core. This is where the fan resistor is located. If you are looking at the blower motor (it is mounted on the engine compartment side of the firewall on the passenger side) the resistor is to the left of it and down a bit mounted in the plastic housing that covers the AC core. There are two screws that allow it to be removed. When I pulled mine out it came out clogged with a bunch of pine needles and stuff. I ended up taking out the blower motor and cleaned everything out with my shop vac. Reassembled and the fan now works fine. And I have allot more heat!!
The thing that kills me is I took photos of it but I think they are on my laptop at the office. If I find them I will post them.
Last edited by dsmith1484; Jan 22, 2006 at 12:31 PM.
Do you have a fuse or a circuit breaker in the fuse panel for the fan? If it's a circuit breaker, that's the first thing I'd change, cause it cheaper and easy to get to. If it's a fuse, that's not going to be your problem. Next place I'd check would be the resistor block and the thermal limiter.
hey jerry if it was the resistor or the limiter i believe that the high setting would still work because the blower power is not going thru the resistor. i would check for an oxidized connection on the plug to the resistor or at the blower control switch itself. im not sure if the resistor is built in to the switch or not?
If it were the resistors, I agree hi speed should work. However, the thermal limiter would kill the motor at all speeds. All that said, your suggestion regarding oxidation is still an excellent one.
Oh, one other thing. These motors may also have a seperate internal thermal limiter. Some do, but I don't know about these. Regardless, if that's the problem, you'd probably have to change the motor anyway.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.