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Can anyone tell me a good place to start looking for a 64 F100 steering wheel?
The truck we bought has an aftermarket wheel, and I woudllike to get back to something closer ot the original, or at least a reproduction.
Also, we are looking for a horn button. If we get an origianl steering wheel, I suppose we coudl use that, but until then, and old horm button we could mount on the column or dash would work
Look at the steering wheel on my 64 the only problem is the air bag, when deployed can leave a nasty mark on the forehead, it's still a f100 steering wheel (or so I've been told) only out of a fighter jet. be creative or be original do what you like.
I've got a spare that's kind of a turquoise color, I think I might have the horn button as well, I'll check. I don't know if that would work for you or not.
Restored a steering wheel found in salvage yard using kit purchased from 'Eastwood'. Found a wheel close to desired color, repaired using kit, then used a plastic aerosol can of paint to finish. Very satisfied with outcome. The kit consist primarily of the A/B type epoxy compound found in local hardware stores. Can also purchase paint thru 'Eastwood', but found desired color from local hardware store. There are some do's and don'ts in repairing if should consider.
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F100 steering wheels are reproduced new by a few suppliers and sold by all. the center horn cap is also reproduced as new including the plastic insert. The little million dollar gidgie is also being reproduced. Finally..................those were getting hard to find.
Even when repairing with an eastwood kit it still is a fourty year old steering wheel and will crack and fall apart again.
I agree with Garbz; however if your decide to use an old originial steering wheel; Here's a techingue, I recently use a plumbers expoxy and filled the crack's around the support brace and once it dried I sanded it down, I then use fusion spray paint, its a plastic cover paint ( red, black, blue, green and I think white colors)you can purchase any where, The wheel looks like new, and the only other thing I did was wrap it with a vinyl steering wheel lace.
Just another ideal....
According to kit, file out crack, wedge shape, using small file and remove enough material to ensure good bonding surface. I used a small rectangular file for every small and large crack before applying compound. If should deside to repair and use compound that requires mixing, do not prepare large amounts, the compound I used dried quickly. Found keeping compound moist, not wet, made it much easier to work with. Also, taking time wiping excess material before compound dried, particularly area's where you have the wheel design and indentations, eliminated time in the final sanding. If salvage yard, look for wheel where metal parts are in good shape with no cracks around ring. Needed to repair cracks around horn ring, it came out well but labor intensive. Repaired few years back and wheel still looks in good condition. Believe reproduction wheels start at around $225.
dave
dave
Last edited by daveengelson; Jan 19, 2006 at 04:10 PM.
I bought a repro on eBay about a year ago. It was supposed to be for a 4X4, but it fits perfect. It's a huge 18" diameter, which really helps with the non-power steering. I don't know if any more of these are available; I paid $60.
I use a two part epoxy for taxidermy work. It dries hard as a rock and can be sanded, painted, etc... I'm thinking of trying it out and seeing how it works on my steering wheel. Also you have about 20-30 minutes before it starts to firm up. Its called epoxy sculpt and costs about $10 for 1lb of material. This would be more than enough to repair a wheel. Just another alternative I thought I would mention. Probably the same epoxy they sell for a higher price.
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