Four Wheel Drive
Hope this doesn't sound to stupid but here it is. My questions is regarding the front locking hubs. I just got my truck, '02 350, and I was looking at my hubs this morning. On them they say "Auto" and "Lock". Does this mean that I have the Electronic shift on the fly? When it is on "auto" do they just lock automatically? If so then why would you need to lock them. I have heard some stories about the Shift on the Fly. Does everyone have problems with it? Also, I cannot turn them to the lock position. I am having a new exhaust put on next week, I think I will have them look at them anyways. Thanks in advance for the help guys, so far love my truck and this forum.
Here's they it SHOULD work:
1) Turn the **** to 4x4HIGH while driving. Hubs will lock, transfer-case will go to 4x4. You're in 4-wheel drive.
2) Turn the **** to 4x4HIGH when NOT driving. Hubs will TRY to lock, but if they are not in the perfect position, they will not. Transfer case may or may not engage too, but usually will. In this case, you get out and lock the hubs manually because the truck is not moving enough to let them lock automatically.
3) Turn the **** to 4x4HIGH and the hub-locking system is screwed and you can't get 4-wheel drive. Get out and lock manually, and get around the crappy vacuum system.
So, there are at least 3 modes of operation. One, it works fine. Two, hubs don't lock and you have to lock them yourself. Third, something is screwed with the system in the first place, and you HAVE to lock them manually.
The hub's **** not turning is a known issue... you can remove the hubs, soak them in light oil for a while and see if that helps. Some people had luck with WD40 or Silicone spray. Usually, they are never going to turn again "normally" so you are stuck getting new ones. They are expensive from Ford. I was quoted something like $250 or so for ONE! You can get used ones from a junkyard or Ebay, which would be much cheaper, just make sure the **** turns before you buy.
Aftermarket solutions: Buy Warn (or other) manual hubs and be done with the "auto" locking hubs. That's what I did. Now, I just have to get out and lock the hubs manually, get back in, turn the **** to 4x4HI and away I go. I usually lock the hubs the first snowfall, and leave them until the roads are completely dry.
The part # for the Warns should be 38826 for the "premium" chrome-plated ones. After install, if they seem loose, you can get a second snap-ring from Warn, for nothing, under warranty. The cost of the Warn hubs is around $200 or so. Install is easy, an hour should do it. Have them check that the front axles turn freely in the spindle, otherwise there's a needle bearing deep inside that can go bad and should be taken care of immediately.
All of the trucks that I have had previously either were fully automatic or just manual locking. Also had the lever on the floor. I will look into everything you suggest. I will be asking the dealership what they will do, seeing that I just bought it, maybe they will put some new ones in, (wishful thinking I know but doesn't hurt to ask). If not I will probably go with the warns. Thanks again for the info.

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I've heard statements in the past that the 'automatic' and 'manual' hubs are identical... its just the cover plate that is different. And of course, the vacuum nipple is capped off. My '05 is my first 'manual' 4WD Super Duty (other 3 had ESOF) and it appears that there is a capped nipple where the ESOF vacuum line would plug in. Soo, they might be the same hub?
As for not being able to turn the hub to "locked", it's a common issue. After a while, gunk gets in there and 'freezes' the ****. You can pull the cap & clean the outer hub lock to get things moving again. Once it's working, you can prevent it from happening again by periodically rotating the dial.
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The problem with my ESOF hubs WAS the hubs themselves. There were no vacuum problems (which is why I know so much about the subject
).From all the people I've responded to, I've gathered that at least 50% had unexplained hub problems, after doing a FULL vacuum diagnosis.
Ever take apart (fully!) an auto-locking hub? There's a little "toggle" thingy in there that makes the lock/unlock work. One part of it (the spring steel part) is about 3/8" wide, and very thin. What it locks against is plastic tabs on the "piston". I can't imagine the plastic tabs lasting more than 20K miles of "real" use, and in fact, my hubs with 20K miles (and lots of 4WD'ing in snow over the winter), the plastic tabs were noticably screwed, and wouldn't stay locked anymore. They'd lock for the 20 second vacuum pulse, but wouldn't STAY locked. That's the plastic tabs I'm talking about ...



