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Need Info; I Have A 1966 F-250 4x4 And Need To Replace A Rotted Frame. What Years 4x4 Frame Will Swap With My Transfer Case And Axles Etc. Is A Half Ton Frame The Same Thanks.
Bought A Fre For My 66 F-250, Junk Yard Wasnt Sure Of The Year I Got The Power Assist And Axles Thrown In With Deal For 150.00. Would Like To Know If Anybody Can Tell What Year It Is, Frame Number F26ycr62053 Thanks For Info.
I don't have an exact match to that vin in the little book I have at home, but it looks like 76-77 250 4x4 with a 360 2bbl.
Power assist is most likely a 73-77 BUT is was used as early as 65.
Thanks For All The Info Yes It Does Have The Blocks.the Only Difference Is The Length Between The Axles Its 4 Inches Longer Than My 66, I Guess I Will Haft To Move The Rear Springs To Make Up The Difference Just Hate To Give Up The Factory Rivits.
Just a tip for gettin rid of the rivets. It is alot faster to use an air hammer/chisel to pop them out after you torch the heads off. I learned this after doing about half of my truck.
Thanks For All The Info Yes It Does Have The Blocks.the Only Difference Is The Length Between The Axles Its 4 Inches Longer Than My 66, I Guess I Will Haft To Move The Rear Springs To Make Up The Difference Just Hate To Give Up The Factory Rivits.
Another thing to look out for is the hump over the axle. If you aren't running lift springs moving the axle forward and loosing the hump may not be good. I was going to put a '75 F250 chasis under my '67 F100 2wd, I did move the springs forward to check it out and I think it woulda worked fine with 4" lift. I can probably scrounge up a pic if you'd like to see what it looks like moved forward.
After taking apart every crossmember on my f250 frame, I've found out the easiest way is to cut an X in the top of the rivet with a cut off wheel, and then chisel them off...
Let Me Get This Straight Abought Th Hump When Moving Axle 4 Inches. Would The Problem Be With A Loaded Truck And Hitting Frame. This Truck Will Have 10 Leafs On Each Side With Helper Spring.