The lift pump on my 95 is leaking

I'am not going to tempt it myself there is horor stories about the push rod falling into the oil pan. My buddy that used to work at the local diesel shop did one on a 96 PSD I never heard so much cussing. It took about 4-5 hours to change the pump. The pump wasn't cheap either it was 250 dollars.

How long can you run the truck with a weeping pump I plan on getting rid of this truck pretty quick.

 

Where is it leaking from? Maybe it's just the banjo bolt or something.

 

I haven't had a good look I looked today but the engine was hot so I couldn't put my hands where. I have been smelling some faint whisps of raw diesel so I knew something is leaking.

 

the first one i ever did i pulled off in 2 hours.

if you know for a fact its what is leaking get a pump off ebay ive gotten 2 off there. the factory one is made by carter and the ones i got off ebay were carters also. i paid about $70

you will need about 2' of 5/16 and 3/8 fuel line DIESEL RATED. its not cheap a napa they had little 2' boxes of it and it was like $30 for 2' of each.

pull the motor cover, pull the fuel bowl out. with a 1-1/4" wrench you can get the banjo bolt loose. something that really helps is take a file to the turbo pedistal and make your self a little more room to get your fingers down to the banjo bolt. and smooth out the edge with some emory cloth or sandpaper, this step will make life much nicer going back togethor. a prybar called a lady slipper is what is the best to get the pump out. you need (2) of theese dont try to do it with one. use one on each side of the pump to pull it up vertically and evenly. the first movement is the hardest since its held in by the oring. i think its best to do this when the motor is at tdc so the lobe is pointing up pushing against the pump. once its loose just make sure you come strait up and you wont have anything to worry about. alot of people that have dropped the tappet have been cause there using a differnt pry bar and hauling off on it and when it comes loose it dosnt come strait up. i have a 6" and 8" lady slipper from snap on that i have used to do it with. with theese the way you use it theres not enough room to pop the pump too far.

the next aggrivation on theese are the banjo bolt going back togethor. with the "adjustments" to the pedistal it makes it much easier. make sure you get the fitting lined back up to the pump perfectly before even tring to get the bolt back in. you tend to bend it to get it out of the way so when it gets back to the pump its not perfectly plumb and then the bolt wont start so make sure it is. since theres no taper on the end of the bolt at all it can be a pain. but with that nasty sharp edge gone off the pedistal it will keep the skin on your fingers and off the pedistal.

good luck with the leak, why are you selling the truck?

 

if you can get some red diesel you can put a small white rag at the back of the block where the drain hole is and see if its leaking in the valley or not. a common place for them to leak and seems like this happens around the 100k mark is the fuel supply line fittings on the back of the heads. $5 worth the orings and a 10mm wrench to do it. if its theese fittings they dont leak into the valley it leaks down the back of the motor.

the fuel bowl drain valve is a common place for it to leak in the valley too. if its leaking in the valley you can put a clean rag between the pump and bowl to see if its leaking further up.

 

2 guys in the past 2 weeks have had the tappet fall into the oil pan...both retrieved it out the dipstick hole..obviously with the nut and tube removed.....(if that gives you any hope)...
i agree with bbj. put the engine at tdc.

 

I also had the "pleasure" of replacing the fuel pump. It is NOT a fun job... But it has to be done. I had to do it the HARD way; I replaced it with out removing the turbo or the fuel bowl. Most people can do it with removing just the bowl and not the turbo. I wanted to remove the bowl but could not get one of the bolts loose and didn’t feel like having it bust off and then have to deal with that mess.

I also worried about the tappet falling into the pan!! Luckily I was able to get the pump out with no problems. The new pumps tappet is usually in there kind of tight so that helps keep it in place.

I would try it out and see how it goes. For your first time expect 2-4 hours. Take it slow and if you need any help just post here and the knowledgeable powerstroke experts will reply with help in no time flat I'm not sure if $250.00 was a ford price but you can get one from your local auto store from around $80-100 and its a life time replaceable item.

Good Luck!!!

 

I would attempt doing the job if it wasn't our rainy winter is happening today I could have a quick look as it was sunshining after I got home from work.

The diesel fuel isn't flowing down the valley pan its colecting almost under the part at the end of the pump with the two lines heading to the back of the heads and under the turbo pedistal. I asume those two lines supply the fuel to the injector rails in the head ?

I'am a PSD newbie this is my first PSD I was a IDI owner and I think I may go back to a IDI.

The reason why I want to sell this truck is I did a VIN search and it said sold at a auto auction. I knew I seen the truck before but it wasn't a flatdeck it was a tow truck I actually looked at the truck and it had engine problems. I guess who ever bought the truck and ran it for a year as a tow truck then took the towbody off and put a flatdeck on it and traded it to the dealer I bought the truck from.

The dealer I bought the truck from said a rebuilt engine was installed by them that turned out to be bullcrap its a used engine

I couldn't tell at the dealer they had the engine washed and sprayed with that clear crap to make the engine shiny. It was one of the reasons why I bought the truck because it was supposed to have a rebuilt engine. The bills said engine re and re well it wasn't the case.

The dealer said the truck had a new clutch installed well that is correct it has a SMF I can tell my 89 F-450 had a SMF.

The transmission was filled with the wrong oil I really didn't know till I decided to change the oil and find it was filled with 80w-90 so its done some damage. I put the proper ATF into it. The damage is already been done the transmission is getting progressivly worse its some viberation and is getting clunkier. I doubt the truck was driven gently being it was a tow truck a rebuilt ZF is gonna run me atleast 3000 dollars.

The last reason is fuel economy the truck is a frigging pig on fuel I had a 88 F-450 with 460 power the PSD is close to the same price in fuel to operate. You put a load on the 95 I have max 10 mpg it drops down to 9.5 and empty truck is 12 mpg. My IDI would get 12mpg unloaded and close to that with a loaded truck.

I was told the PSD OBS F-450s were bad on fuel but I didn't think it would be this bad

 

I got a price from the parts store for the lift pump my price is 300 dollars I may phone Ford but I have a feeling they will be more. I'am going have to see what is really leaking hopefully its just the bango bolt if not I really not looking forward to a 500 plus bill to change the pump.

 

Ouch....that's bad luck. The PSD's are very durable, and I'm sure the power and milage issues are correctable without breaking the bank, but there's not going to be a cheap way to get around the tranny damage....might be better off to start over with a different truck.

 

well for starters ford does not have "NEW ENGINES" the sell/install remanned engines...the word is they are built better than then new ones are fwiw...


the tranny..shoot you can find a used one for 800 bucks or less. and a rebuilt is 1200 out of az from a big time tranny shop.

our trucks were meant to haul and tow. i wouldnt be scared one bit. shoot most psd's probably got the most miles out there right now are the flatdeck car hauler or tow trucks...

sounds like maybe you didnt do your homework on buying a truck with the right rearend and options you needed.

 

Parts are not cheap up here in Canada most stuff the Ford dealer doesn't carry you want something for a truck older than a 99 they give you a blank stare.

I will have to phone the Ford dealer and see what a pump is worth and how much for them to install it. The local repair shop here has got a new mechanic so I really don't know if he will do the job. He is a heavy truck mechanic and I haven't met him yet. If my buddy still worked at the shop then I wouldn't even consider the Ford dealer as I know he would do the job for me. If the new guy can do it I will have to order the part and may be wait up to a week for it to arrive.

I will have to stop by the local shop on monday and ask the new guy if he says yes then I will go the the parts store go order the pump. I have no choice I have to spend the 500 dollars to have the pump done I can't leave it leak.

Its not something I will attempt to do myself I'am very mechanically inclined I work on heavy equipment but doing engine stuff is a little out of my league. After reading some horror stories about the push rod falling into the oil pan and you have to pull the top of the engine apart not for me.

As for the right spec'ed truck you don't have much choices with a F-450 some one has put 4:63s into the truck from the factory 5:13s so who ever owned the truck was already trying to lower the revvs.

I don't know how I can reduce the tare weight of the truck my 89 F-450 with IDI power with the same size wheelbase and deck etc only weighed 7800lbs the 95 PSD weighs 8400lbs that is a 600lb difference. I don't know where that extra weight comes from a PSD can't weight that much more than a IDI N/A both trucks are 5 spds both 2wd

 

Kenworth, if you have the time to wait. Order your parts from one of the online Ford dealers. I just looked up a fuel pump for a 96 F350 PSD on fordparts.com, they are in Tacoma, WA, $115 usd plus shipping. You'll have to pay the provincial and gst taxes too, but you'd have to pay for that at your local parts store, and at twice the price.

powerstrokeshop.com has it listed for $111.60
Have you looked on eBay?

I know it's not easy if you absolutely need to get it back to work in very short order. In that case, you are better off paying the extortion price, and then making your truck pay for the repairs by getting it up and running quicker.

Don't be too shy of working on your own engine. If you take your time and do the research beforehand, you will do no worse than many other mechanics. I've seen a lot of guys that know their stuff, but unless they specialize on that certain engine day in, day out, they will also have to do a little reading from the service manuals, and will make a mistake once in awhile. Imagine if a fellow working off in the corner of the shop drops the plunger into the pan. Will he admit the mistake, or will he get another one and leave the old one on the bottom because there is a screen on the oil pickup? Remember, you are probably the only one who cares the most about getting the job done right on your own truck.

Hope you get it figured out soon, hate to hear about dealers/sellers that misrepresent their wares.
Ken

 

i posted you this in your "i may become an idi owner again" thread.....how much could shipping be from the states to canada for a few pounds??? is there something i dont know????

maybe you could get a 4.10 ring and pinion for it....
do you really need a 450 flatbed? maybe you could get a 250/350 with 3.55 rearend or 4.10..

just throwing some things out there.

let me know....

 

I'am definatly not in a hurry to get a fuel pump I have to phone around on monday. I have been dealing with Napa lately I will see what they have to say.

I don't know how long I can go on a weeping pump its not leaking to much fuel. I have been working morning shift so I leave the house at 5:30 and get home at 2:00pm the engine is too hot to even touch. By the time 3:30 rolls along the engine is still a little too warm and its getting dark.

I'am starting afternoon shifts on monday so I can get on the phone and see what I'am looking at for prices. I can also examine the problem if its not down pouring rain the engine will be cold I can actually put my hands on the turbo and down into the valley.

I have been thinking about a IDI again and slapping a turbo on it but the biggest problem with the IDI is the EGTs climb so darn fast its easy to melt down a engine. A turbo kit for a IDI is 3000 dollars that would either buy alot of fuel to feed a 460 or fix the problems I may encounter with a PSD.

The other problem with the IDI is the big "C" yes cavitation its a engine killer buying a used IDI can be like staring down a gun barrel you never know when its going to blow.

As for getting better fuel mileage from my truck I got to find way to make it lighter I have to get it down from 8400lbs. Rearing it to 4:10s isn't going to work the Dana 80 in those trucks only accept 4:63s or 5:13s there is something with the center chunk. I have talked to guys with tow trucks that have told me I'am stuck with the 4:63s.