Rebuild F150
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Elder User
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 523
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From: Murfreesboro, Tennessee
Rebuild F150
I have a 93 F150 5.8L/351W 4X4. It has oil in the air filter meaning oil blow back. I need to do a compression test on her (got the concept just not the actually way to do it.) It needs a rebuild a little under 500K miles. I have the tools and stuff to do it just how hard is it for me to rebuild this thing. Will I be able to pull it by myself? Things that I should get for it performance wise since Im in there. I am on a budget but still can afford a little something here and there.
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 19,402
Likes: 38
From: Bonita Springs FL
Wow, 500k and it needs a rebuild, what a lemon! 
It's pretty involved, but if you have the tools, the time, the patience, and the discipline to label everything you take off so it goes back on in the right order, then go for it.
It's a speed density motor, so you can't get too nuts with it, but companies do make cams and whatnot for SD motors. Do a search in this forum, it's been discussed a lot.
Also, not all your power gains are made in the engine. Consider this a good time to get a good manifold-back exhaust on it.
It's pretty involved, but if you have the tools, the time, the patience, and the discipline to label everything you take off so it goes back on in the right order, then go for it.
It's a speed density motor, so you can't get too nuts with it, but companies do make cams and whatnot for SD motors. Do a search in this forum, it's been discussed a lot.
Also, not all your power gains are made in the engine. Consider this a good time to get a good manifold-back exhaust on it.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 14,947
Likes: 6
From: Topsfield, MA
Nice compression is 150-180psi - alright compression is 120-130...the more important thing is how even they are...
Warm up the engine - pull all of the plugs - turn it over for 4 compression strokes (as seen on gauge) and keep it even on each cylinder. Put a little oil in each cylinder after doing it dry and record all the numbers and which cylinders they go to.
That'll be a dry and wet compression test - you use the oil to figure out if the compression increases with it - indicating valve sealing problems instead of ring problems.
Warm up the engine - pull all of the plugs - turn it over for 4 compression strokes (as seen on gauge) and keep it even on each cylinder. Put a little oil in each cylinder after doing it dry and record all the numbers and which cylinders they go to.
That'll be a dry and wet compression test - you use the oil to figure out if the compression increases with it - indicating valve sealing problems instead of ring problems.
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