Steering Play
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Junior User
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 76
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From: Western Oklahoma
Steering Play
Need some help locating the source of play/slack in the steering of my 85' F250 S/C 2wd 6.9 4spd. I have replaced every tie rod end, the drag link, both king pins, and got the full meal deal alignment; which I figured would eliminate what was a significant amount of play in the steering. It still has between 1/4 - 1/3 of a steering wheel turn of play down the highway.
I have 265/75/16 BFG Rugged Trail T/A's with over 1/2 the tread left (and no abnormal wear patterns) on all 4 factory steel wheels. I have checked the joints in the steering shaft from the wheel to the gearbox and they all seem tight. The play seems to come from the gearbox when turning the wheel sitting still, both idiling and shut down. Does the gearbox have any adjustment to take play out of the steering? My truck only has just over 100K miles on it, so I can't quite see the gearbox being bad.
Any ideas or help would be greatly appreciated.
I have 265/75/16 BFG Rugged Trail T/A's with over 1/2 the tread left (and no abnormal wear patterns) on all 4 factory steel wheels. I have checked the joints in the steering shaft from the wheel to the gearbox and they all seem tight. The play seems to come from the gearbox when turning the wheel sitting still, both idiling and shut down. Does the gearbox have any adjustment to take play out of the steering? My truck only has just over 100K miles on it, so I can't quite see the gearbox being bad.
Any ideas or help would be greatly appreciated.
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 529
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From: France
steering
there is a big screw and a nut on the steering box,try fiddling with that, though it hasn't helped me much,it just hardenned the steering a bit,hope you get the right info,sure could use it!
saigon
saigon
Logistics Pro
Joined: Apr 2004
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From: NJ where fun comes to die
On the top of the steering box is a straight slot screw with a lock nut on it. Loosen the nut and turn the screw in. Try a little at a time. Keep your wheels straight when you do it. Don't go real tight. It might not help. The problem could just be wear in the box. Good luck with it.
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Junior User
Joined: Jan 2005
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From: Western Oklahoma
I have seen the straight slot screw with the lock nut on it...but have absolutely no idea of what it is for or just what I would be "fiddling" with. I don't want to do anything that would make a negative impact in the safety catagory.
Anyone have any more information on this?
Anyone have any more information on this?
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2004
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From: West Valley Utah
Make sure your wheel bearings are not loose. Check your coupler on the steering shaft.
There are 2 adjustments on the steering box. One where the shaft goes into the box is for bearing pre-load. With age and wear can be tightened kind of the same way as wheel bearings. The other is the slotted screw with the lock nut. Do NOT over tighten either one. Make sure when you adjust the slotted one that the steering wheel is centered. Back off the lock nut and turn the screw down until it just starts to get tight or takes a bit of pressure to turn. You don't want this screw too tight or your steering will get hard and it will put too much pressure on the shaft and you will have problems.
The box may be just plain worn out and nothing but a new or rebuilt box is going to help.
There are 2 adjustments on the steering box. One where the shaft goes into the box is for bearing pre-load. With age and wear can be tightened kind of the same way as wheel bearings. The other is the slotted screw with the lock nut. Do NOT over tighten either one. Make sure when you adjust the slotted one that the steering wheel is centered. Back off the lock nut and turn the screw down until it just starts to get tight or takes a bit of pressure to turn. You don't want this screw too tight or your steering will get hard and it will put too much pressure on the shaft and you will have problems.
The box may be just plain worn out and nothing but a new or rebuilt box is going to help.
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Junior User
Joined: Jan 2005
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From: Western Oklahoma
Success!
I made the adjustment to the slotted screw on the top of the steering gearbox. I backed the locking nut off and turned the slotted screw down until it just started to get firm to turn. Overall, I turned the slotted screw about 1 2/3 turns in, then tightened the lock nut back down and did the test drive.
I went from between 1/3 to 1/2 turn of play in the steering wheel to the truck driving like a brand new vehicle. There is very little or no more resistance on the wheel when steering and the truck steers and drives almost as tight as my 05' Mountaineer.
I am still not sure exactly what I just adjusted, but I couldn't be happier with the results. The truck drives and steers like it's brand new! Thanks to all for the advice and tip(s). You guys are awesome!
I went from between 1/3 to 1/2 turn of play in the steering wheel to the truck driving like a brand new vehicle. There is very little or no more resistance on the wheel when steering and the truck steers and drives almost as tight as my 05' Mountaineer.
I am still not sure exactly what I just adjusted, but I couldn't be happier with the results. The truck drives and steers like it's brand new! Thanks to all for the advice and tip(s). You guys are awesome!
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2005
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The adjustment pulls the gears closer together. I am currently working on my box, you can find the thread if you want, it's been an interesting experience. The gear that connects to the pitman arm shaft is tapered, and when the screw is tightened, it pulls the gear in tighter. it is a similar idea to wheel bearings, when it is tightened, it pulls them tighter together. So that is what is being adjusted when the screw is turned.
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Junior User
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jb1390 is correct, the gear is tapered. The [sector] gear is also crowned, it is not a true radius but higher in the middle. That way you can tighten it down and not be too tight on the ends where play is not as important. The box should be adjusted with the draglink disconnected. Close your eyes and gently turn the wheel, as you tighten it you will be able to feel the center of the rotation, just a little less is good. Also the steering wheel should be straight ahead when the box is in the middle of it's travel so that the play is minimal while driving. No taking the wheel off and moving it to get it centered.
The other adjustment is for bearing preload on the steering shaft, just like doing wheel bearings, and it should be done before the sector shaft adjustment.
Manual boxes are much easier because you can feel them so much better without the extra drag from the PS parts.
The other adjustment is for bearing preload on the steering shaft, just like doing wheel bearings, and it should be done before the sector shaft adjustment.
Manual boxes are much easier because you can feel them so much better without the extra drag from the PS parts.
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be aware that if it is overtightened, the truck won't straighten itself out on the road. If you aren't expecting that, it could be scary. Most of the time the adjustment doesn't take much play out.....but it's free and sometimes you get lucky. I actually am about to go put another box in my truck in a few minutes, you can find my thread on here somewhere, it's been interesting.
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All you have to do to tighten the power steering belt is loosen the two bolts holding it on. Then there is a square 1/2 inch hole in the upper right corner of the pump. put a breaker bar (or ratchet, but breaker bar is easier) in the square hole, and pull for the appropriate belt tension. Then while holding the tension, tighten the two bolts back up. the lower bolt is in a curved slot which the bolt slides along as the tension is raised. The upper bolt is the pivot point, and needs to be loosened or friction will prevent you from turning the bracket.
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