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My 4WD is stuck in high 4WD. Low works fine. When in auto mode it does not drive the motor to the auto position. Tried a motor no help. Switch ohms out fine. When I manually put the transfer case in the auto mode the truck does not move, but even with the motor unbolted from the case it does not drive to the auto position.
Any ideas?
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I have a similar problem in my 98 EB Explorer. It stays in 4wd high or 4 low but won't go to auto. I put in a new transfer case motor and it still does it. Now it has a problem of grinding and no reverse. If I take the t-case motor off and realign it, reverse works until I put it in 4wd low, then I lose it again and have to repeat the process. Could it be a bad transfer case, or is my wiring messed up on the t-case motor (I wrote down what colors to swap and there places). Do you have any reverse problems?
I have no reverse problem. When I take off the motor and drive, the motor does not go to the auto mode. Something is telling it to stay in 4WD high. Also when I put the transfer case in the auto position with the motor off the truck does not move.
Fixed!
The motor only drives the transfer case to 4WH or 4WL. The automatic part is operated by clutches in the transfer case driven by a magnetic coil from the electronic module. [ thats the single brown wire going into the case]. When one of the speed sensors senses a slip by no movement of the driveshaft in the front or back wheels it sends a voltage to the coil to engage to clutch. So when in Auto you should have no power at the brown wire when you truck is standing still.
Put your truck up on stands and see if all wheels move. Mine did. Turns out my clutches were locked or welded together. Replaced transfer case and all is well.
Even after replacement my front wheels still move somewhat but I think the case needs some front wheel drive sensing to operate auto 4WD.
If you can turn the back wheels or front by hand and the others turn and you can not hold them still I think you have a case change.
Ford made 8 different cases for explorer. The junk yard will need the case # on the tag on the case. Mine was YL24-AA.
Hope that helps.
I think if you had a faulty sensor that you would have a fault on the dash.
Do what I said before with the motor disconnected. If you have no voltage going to the coil then the front wheels should not be engaged.
Mine was 450.00 with 100.00 core and 2 months warranty. Next week I'm going to open up the case and see if I can buy the parts to fix it. Don't want to spend another 450.00 in 3 months if this one dies.