Two of the four bolts don't seem like they are going to unscrew. These are the 5" bolts that go though the timing chain case(?) into the block. I sense the bolts are twisting so I stopped trying. Any advise on this? I would guess that they will twist off in the block and then I would have to remove the timing chain cover to get to them to drill. I assume I am correct about this being the timing chain cover behind the water pump? Is the cover easy to get off??

 

What vehicle, model year and engine?

Steve
'95 Clubwagon XLT

 

It is a 1994 Ford Van E150 with the 351 V8 engine. Sorry forgot the most important stuff.

 

Go to the dealer, pay the price for the new bolts. they are corroded through the timing cover. Mine twisted off but with PB blaster and vise grips I got them out. My 92 351 had 185k when the waterpump went. Decided to put in new timing chain before the trouble with the bolts. It tool a few day to get apart. Was the engine quiet with the new chain! Good look! Keep us updated!

Chris
92 E150 351
04 E350 5.4

 

So what kind of problem is it to get the timing chain cover off? What is PB Blaster>

 

PB Blaster is a catalyst type penetrating oil. Works great, better than anything else. You can buy it at most autoparts stores including autozone, advance and OReillys.

Soak the bolts and turn them out the best you can. If they break, soak again with PB Blaster and try turning them out with vice grips or a stud remover.

Steve
'95 Clubwagon XLT

 

I second that on PB,great stuff.Wal-Mart has it now.I had sticky E-break ,sprayed the hell out of it,and about three days later it started to work again.

 

Important note about PB Blaster. It really isn't a great lubricant so if you have something like this that you want to free up, while PB Blaster works great at freeing it up you should come back afterwards and hit is with some spray lube. For the E-brake, spray lithium grease works great.

Steve
'95 Clubwagon XLT

 

When I have a problem like this I usually try to move the bolts both ways while using a good penetrating oil. I remove the bolt very slowly by alternately loosening and tightening until it is fully backed out.

Chase all the threads with a tap before reassembly.

While you have it apart, put in a new timing set and inspect the timing cover where the water jacket passes through. If the passage shows corrorsion, replace the cover. Replace the front seal while the cover is off. If you can get the oil pan dropped low enough, replace the pan gasket. The short replacement gaskets on the front of the pan tend to leak after a while. A whole new pan gasket will not be as likely to leak.

I was able to replace the pan gasket on a 92 club wagon but I was forced to pull the starter wiring out of the passanger side of the engine to gain access. Cleaning the gasket surface was a real challenge.

 

How goes the bolt battle? We Love updates!

 

Ok I chickened out when I realized I had to pull that timing chain cover to get to those treads. I did find a small hole in the tube runing from the heat sensor to something so I replaced that all hoeses. I also took some JB Weld and put it in the area where I thought there was another small leak at the gasket between the pump and timing chain on the top.

I decided that if I need to pull that pump I would grind the head off of the two stuck bolts so I could get the pump off. Then I could have a chance to get some penetrating fluid to the treads ...maybe. Then I would have a chance of using vicescrips to work the bolts...and maybe avoid taking that timing chain cover off.

 

Why does the chain cover intimidate you?

 

Can the timing chain cover be pulled and replaced without taking off the pan? Can I get to the bolts to remove the cover from the front or do I need to go underneath? Isn't there some kinda half moon seal on that cover in addition to the flat one at the engine side?

 

I changed the chain and gears without pulling the pan. don't remember it being that bad. Just need to get it all clean and pay attention when you put it together. I couldn't stand being one cover away while the waterpump was off. Keep reading this board and go after it when you are ready. You could also seach/post in the 221, 260, 289, 5.0/302, 5.8/351W V8 forum. Those guys should be experts. Keep us up to date with your repair!

Thanks
Chris

 

In the FWIW category, when doing this job on a van, you might find it easier to remove the radiator and grill and use an impact tool on the bolts. You can rent an electric impact wrench from Home Depot.