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I had the same problem about ten years ago with a 352 in my 66 Ford. I replaced the exhaust manifold bolts with stainless steel bolts and used festering gobs of anti-sieze compound during reassembly. Six years later when I replaced my motor the bolts came right out. I recommend a grade four bolt or higher.
I use studs when I replace the bolts. That way you double your chances for something coming loose when it comes time to remove the manifolds. Also as tempting as it may be to reuse the old bolts, don't! Replace all of them no matter how "good" they look. On these engines try tightening the bolts just a little then you can usually loosen them up with no problem. I don't know why, but they will usually tighten with no problem, there by breaking the crud loose from the threads, and allowing you to loosen the bolt off after a liberal shot of penetrating oil.
HTH
Dex.
Heat metal around bolt until cherry red with a cold pair of vice grips on bolt and change vice grips when they get warm , then work back and forth until it loosens, If you are careful and its not a show truck or just a beater. Blow bolt with torch and just run a bolt and nut thur it,
GWB
>Exhaust manifolds are prone to rusting and weakening the
>bolts, so it's very common for this to happen. Another
>little tip for removing broken bolts, if the broken part of
>the bolt is slightly surfaced, but not enough to get vice
>grips on it, you can find a nut approximately the diameter
>of the bolt, and tack weld the inside of the nut to the
>bolt. If you have a welder available to you.
>
>~'71 F-100 Sport Custom Reg.Cab
>-390FE w/Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, 780cfm Holley,
>ported & polished cylinder heads,
>Crane Cam (0.548"I,0.580"E), 10.5:1 CR, Black Jack headers,
>true double roller timing chain, and high volume oil pump
>-C6 transmision w/B&M 2600rpm stall
>-9" Ford Rearend w/4.10 Richmond Gears & 31 spline axles
>-215/65/r15 Yokohama's for the front & 28"x13.5"x15" Mickey
>Thompson ET Street slicks for the back
>Best 1/4 mile time @ 3375ft altitude 14.64secs @ 92mph
I saw a mention of OIL OF WINTERGREEN,I used to use it on R3350
stack bolts that had rusted/frozen due to heat what ever, put
oil of wintergreen on with a sringe then wait 10 -15 minutes
then back out the bolt, you can get OIL OF WINTERGREEN at a
drug store, 2 oz should cost about 4-6 bucks.
Fordsrule,the last time I took the heads off my 390 for a valvejob I busted several manifold bolts, just like every other time it needed a gasket or machine work I always broke at least one off.I took the heads to the machine shop and they took the busted studs out. They asked if I wanted them to fix the broken bolt problem forever when they did the valvejob. They drilled out the stock bolt holes and installed stainless inserts for a minimum price. I have had the manifolds off once to replace the gaskets and everything came off with no broken bolts, this was about 9 mos. after they were installed so I cant say what would happen 2 years from now.
"bowties in the rearview mirror"
Do the job with a hot motor. Shoot the Penetrating oil on the hot bolt and don't breath the fumes. If you can't get'em to move then use an Oxy/actelene torch. Heat the bolt head red hot and then go for it. Otherwise get ready for a lot of drilling and alot of Painstaking work.
Good Luck,Have Fun,
KingFisher