i screwed up
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 130
Likes: 0
From: Ozark Arkansas
i screwed up
today i was going to put an exaust gasket on my truck and i was taking the manifold off and one bolt broke i didnt think anything of it i though i could get it out with and ez-out so i started to take off another bolt and it broke to. i cant get an ez out in there unless i take the head off. does anybody have any ideas on getting them out. thanks
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 24,552
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From: Creedmoor, North Carolina
i screwed up
Sounds to me like a FE got you.
John
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66F100s Rule
In the cool still quite of night you can hear chevies rusting away.
John
jowilker
[link:www.ford-trucks.net/users/jowilker|Club FTE since 01 01] My FTE Page
[link:www.ford-trucks.net/users/jowilker/NCFTE.html|NC Truck Owners] NC Ford Truck owners group
66F100s Rule
In the cool still quite of night you can hear chevies rusting away.
Junior User
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 50
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i screwed up
I did the same thing a while back.
I broke half the bolts.
I read in a magazine that someone sells a kit for removing the broken bolts. You have to drill them, slowly enlarging the hole andd then stick a metal peice supplied with kit inside the hole and turn it out.
I broke half the bolts.
I read in a magazine that someone sells a kit for removing the broken bolts. You have to drill them, slowly enlarging the hole andd then stick a metal peice supplied with kit inside the hole and turn it out.
Junior User
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 58
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i screwed up
I would remove the front clip instead of removing the head, it would be easier in my opinion. I've found that easy-outs dont work very well on bolts that small, they seem to break off easily. I recomend drilling the bolts out and retapping the holes to take a 7/16 bolt. after this you may also have to enlarge the holes in the manifold.
John,
GM writes my paycheck, but all I drive is FORDS
John,
GM writes my paycheck, but all I drive is FORDS
More Turbo
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 574
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From: New England
i screwed up
I had the problem resolved without removing the heads. You can access the bolts from the front fender wells (if its a 2wd, im not sure about the 4wd). if its a 7/16" bolt, get about 10 drill bits (1/8"), and get ready to spend an afternoon on them. you will then need a size higher heli-coil kit.these kits have the exact drill bit size you will need to get to finish the holes.
this looked like a big $$ job when it happened to me , but it turned out to be a day's work and about $30 in parts.....
GOOD LUCK!!!!!!
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77'FORD F150 XLT 400
this looked like a big $$ job when it happened to me , but it turned out to be a day's work and about $30 in parts.....
GOOD LUCK!!!!!!
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77'FORD F150 XLT 400
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 130
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From: Ozark Arkansas
i screwed up
i dont think i can get to them through the fender well. ill be taking the front clip off soon anyway got to put another on it. I only broke 2 i didnt take anymore out. you can feel the tops of them through the hole in the manifold. thinken about soaken the others in wd40 or some thing and try to get them out. maybe they wont break
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More Turbo
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 574
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From: New England
i screwed up
Get a tube of anti-seize when you get ready to put the new bolts in
experience is a great teacher
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77'FORD F150 XLT 400
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77'FORD F150 XLT 400
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Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2000
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From: SD
i screwed up
"I only broke 2 i didnt take anymore out. you can feel the tops of them through the hole in the manifold. thinken about soaken the others in wd40 or some thing and try to get them out. maybe they wont break"
[font color=red size=2]If there is still some bolt sticking out of the head, maybe you can get some vice-grips clamped on it and turn it out, once the manifold is off. The wd40 is a good idea. I've found that working the bolt back and forth helps. Loosen then tighten, over and over until it comes out. That way you break loose the rust in the threads. Works for me.
Marty
"Cleverly Disguised as a Responsible Adult"[/font]
[font color=red size=2]If there is still some bolt sticking out of the head, maybe you can get some vice-grips clamped on it and turn it out, once the manifold is off. The wd40 is a good idea. I've found that working the bolt back and forth helps. Loosen then tighten, over and over until it comes out. That way you break loose the rust in the threads. Works for me.
Marty
"Cleverly Disguised as a Responsible Adult"[/font]
Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2001
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i screwed up
Everyone here has some story about broken bolts...you'll learn from experience. Drench the other bolts in penetrating fluid (Someone also posted oil of wintergreen works wonders), let it soak for at least an hour reapply more fluid. Use a small wrench or ratchet to back them out without applying too much torque. For the broken suckers : if the tip of the bolt is exposed, do the same as above. I've had best luck using a small pipe wrench to grab and turn. Vice grips tend to flex too much. If it broke off inside - drill the bolt with a pilot, then with the correct bit size, drill the plugged hole clean & re-tap/chase threads.
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 366
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From: Calgary
i screwed up
Exhaust manifolds are prone to rusting and weakening the bolts, so it's very common for this to happen. Another little tip for removing broken bolts, if the broken part of the bolt is slightly surfaced, but not enough to get vice grips on it, you can find a nut approximately the diameter of the bolt, and tack weld the inside of the nut to the bolt. If you have a welder available to you.
~'71 F-100 Sport Custom Reg.Cab
-390FE w/Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, 780cfm Holley, ported & polished cylinder heads,
Crane Cam (0.548"I,0.580"E), 10.5:1 CR, Black Jack headers, true double roller timing chain, and high volume oil pump
-C6 transmision w/B&M 2600rpm stall
-9" Ford Rearend w/4.10 Richmond Gears & 31 spline axles
-215/65/r15 Yokohama's for the front & 28"x13.5"x15" Mickey Thompson ET Street slicks for the back
Best 1/4 mile time @ 3375ft altitude 14.64secs @ 92mph
~'71 F-100 Sport Custom Reg.Cab
-390FE w/Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, 780cfm Holley, ported & polished cylinder heads,
Crane Cam (0.548"I,0.580"E), 10.5:1 CR, Black Jack headers, true double roller timing chain, and high volume oil pump
-C6 transmision w/B&M 2600rpm stall
-9" Ford Rearend w/4.10 Richmond Gears & 31 spline axles
-215/65/r15 Yokohama's for the front & 28"x13.5"x15" Mickey Thompson ET Street slicks for the back
Best 1/4 mile time @ 3375ft altitude 14.64secs @ 92mph
Freshman User
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 48
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i screwed up
I am currently dealing with the same problem. Although I broke the easy outs inside the bolts and was told there was no way to drill out an easy out. The vice grips and super penetrating oil worked for one side, but the other side does not have enough to grab onto for vice grips. I like the idea of the small pipe wrench though. I will try that also. Besides the welding of the nut onto the stud, the only other way is to take the heads off and take them to a machine shop. You can also try to heat up the heads with a blowtourch before and try again. Might work. Isn't this a bitch! Good luck.
Junior User
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 95
Likes: 0
i screwed up
Soak Soak Soak.....
I like the tip about welding the nut on....
That can be used by those of us not lucky enough to have an FE, Right?
Chris in WV
1972 Bronco 302 3 on tree ( just gettin started!)
1978 F150 SC 351 C6 $600
1969 Buick LeSabre 400
1941 Farmall "A"
I like the tip about welding the nut on....
That can be used by those of us not lucky enough to have an FE, Right?
Chris in WV
1972 Bronco 302 3 on tree ( just gettin started!)
1978 F150 SC 351 C6 $600
1969 Buick LeSabre 400
1941 Farmall "A"