e 350 with 460 quits?
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e 350 with 460 quits?
E350 1990 7.5L When driving down the road it seems to run out of gas and then stalls out. If I let it sit, it will start back up go for about 30 minutes to 2 hours. I have replaced the fuel filter, high presure fuel pump, fuel pump relay, rotor/ cap, wires, plugs. This really has me stumped. When it does run its , its great. Has anyone encounter this problem?
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Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 638
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From: Birmingham, AL
ford4.9,
Next time it dies you need to be prepared to do some testing to see if you have fuel and spark. Get a fuel pressure test gauge and carry it with you. You will also need a ratchet with a spark plug socket to pull a plug, ground it to the block with the wire still attached, and turn the engine over to see if it sparks. Do this away from the spark plug hole because some gas will come out of the hole when you turn the engine over. An easier way would be to carry an extra spark plug with you that is known to be good or a spark tester. Simply remove the plug wire nearest the driver's seat and attach it to the test plug, ground it to the block and turn the engine over.
You will need to open the dog house in order to be able to perform both of these test by yourself, so be ready to do this quickly before the van "heals" itself again. You can then work from the driver's seat.
If you want to go on a guess, I will guess the ignition module. I'm not sure what year they moved them from the distributor to the driver's side fender well but they made that change in response to heat related failure of the module. If yours is still on the back side of the distributor than the likelyhood of failure is greater than if it is in the fender well. The coil can also have an intermitant falt that is heat related. If this problem happens shortly after the engine reaches operating temp it may be the egr valve.
First find out if it has spark and fuel at the time of failure and we can help you a little better. You should also check for any codes being set.
Gene
Next time it dies you need to be prepared to do some testing to see if you have fuel and spark. Get a fuel pressure test gauge and carry it with you. You will also need a ratchet with a spark plug socket to pull a plug, ground it to the block with the wire still attached, and turn the engine over to see if it sparks. Do this away from the spark plug hole because some gas will come out of the hole when you turn the engine over. An easier way would be to carry an extra spark plug with you that is known to be good or a spark tester. Simply remove the plug wire nearest the driver's seat and attach it to the test plug, ground it to the block and turn the engine over.
You will need to open the dog house in order to be able to perform both of these test by yourself, so be ready to do this quickly before the van "heals" itself again. You can then work from the driver's seat.
If you want to go on a guess, I will guess the ignition module. I'm not sure what year they moved them from the distributor to the driver's side fender well but they made that change in response to heat related failure of the module. If yours is still on the back side of the distributor than the likelyhood of failure is greater than if it is in the fender well. The coil can also have an intermitant falt that is heat related. If this problem happens shortly after the engine reaches operating temp it may be the egr valve.
First find out if it has spark and fuel at the time of failure and we can help you a little better. You should also check for any codes being set.
Gene
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Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 117
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From: Klamath Falls, Orygun
Vapor lock? Fuel line getting hot somewhere? Major altitude changes? I had another, completely different design car do this ... aluminum foil around a critical fule line did the trick after much frustration. (80' Saab 99 turbo)
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