Hi, the fuel pump quit priming when the key is in the ON position. I have checked the fuses, the fuel pump relay, and the inertia switch. Before I shell out $135 for a fuel pump, does anyone know how to check the connector to the fuel pump and what to look for?

1994 E350, 5.8L, E04D

Thanks for any help.

JR

 

Hi,

Just got done doing mine, works like new now, but the wife says, "you smell like gas"
I assume you have an in tank pump, disconnect the connector to the pump, use a test light and have a helper turn the key to on, if you get any kind of flash on your test light the pump is bad. If you test more than once be sure your helper turns the key completely off before repeating the cycle.

Hope this helps, Bob

 

Just checking. Are you saying that once disconnected, the connector from the non-pump side should not show any voltage when the key is turned on? That does not make sense to me. I was thinking that if the fault was with the pump, I would get voltage from the connection. If the fault was with a relay or wiring, I would get nothing from the connection. Clarify if you can. Thanks.

JR

 

Sorry for any confusion. Yes, what you said is correct, you should show juice from the connection (plug)

 

Thanks for your help. Your original reply looked fine once I reread it a few times.

I will give it a shot tonight.

 

When the pump in my van started doing that, I climbed under and gave the gas tank a couple of whacks with a rubber mallet and the pump started humming. This is how I knew it was the pump going out. I learned that trick when the pump started going out on an old Escort I used to have. The gas tank was under the back seat and thats how you got to the pump and wiring. while I was checking the wires I banged on the pump cover and the pump came on.

 

Thanks for the tip. Gave it a try, no luck. Anyway, I found the connector and it is a horseshoe shaped connector. The connection at the "open end" and "closed end" of the horseshoe are the pump motor leads (PINK/BLACK and BLACK wires). Well, I do get 12 volts when switched to the On position but no motor "whiz". So, I know what I get to do today, siphon out the tank (any tips on that?) and drop the tank. Thanks again.

 

I got a a siphon from pepboys with a bulb on the end to get it going, beats getting a mouthful of gas, and just started alternating between two 2 1/2 gal. cans putting it in my wife's car. When you get down to about 1/4 tank, put a floorjack with a piece of wood on top to protect the tank, and drop er' down. Glad to be of help, that's what it's all about.

Cheers. Bob

 

Just as a follow up. The job is done. Whew. A few tips in case anybody wants to know. This was a mid body mounted gas tank by the way.

All nuts/bolts are metric FYI.

The original hose clamps are aluminum. You may want to replace them. Personal preference - I replaced mine. 2x 2" and 2x 1" clamps on the filler hose and overflow hose.

The electrical connector has two locking tabs holding it closed. Careful, they can break if you bend them too far. Just pry them up a little.

I found it easier to siphon the tank by loosening the hoses to the tank at their connections to the fuel filler pipes and then shoving the siphon tube into the rubber hose.

Get the tank down to at least a 1/4 full or it is hard to maneuver.

I suggest one of those flat ratcheting wrenches to loosen the nuts (holding the tank strap). I used a regular socket and twisted the nut off the stud. Ouch. A new strap is $22 by the way. I used penetrating fluid but it only helped a little.

You can disconnect all of the lines once the tank is lowered (about 2 ft. only), otherwise note there were also two lines toward the front and two toward the back of the tank on top. Overflow and fume lines (only 1 each is connected to main line).

To get the lock ring off. Try and break the rusted ring loose before turning it. Tapping around and even prying lightly on the hold down tabs. Use the short tabs that are sticking up to turn the ring. Work your way around each tab as you turn. Blow the rust off with compressed air before you lift the ring off. I did not do this but I would have if it was not 11 PM at night and did not need my van the next day. Buy a replacement lock ring. It will probably get bent up a little from taking it off. I used the old one again but I had to put it back carefully. It was getting a little brittle.

 

Glad you got it done, thanks for the other tips, saves others some headaches. To make yourself feel better, call the Ford Stealership and ask them how much it would cost to do the job!

Cheers, Bob

 

Dealers don't want you to fix your old ride, they want you to buy a new one.