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key lock cylinder problems

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Old Dec 25, 2005 | 10:54 PM
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key lock cylinder problems

While working on my project car (1992 Nissan Sentra SE-R) I tried to start her up and wouldn't you know it, the key lock cylinder won't budge. The sucker is locked. And I mean locked. The key has some wiggle room which indicates that the tumblers or whatever they're called are stuck in there.

Am I doomed and have to shell out 100 buck plus to get a new one? Or is there a easier fix that I should try?

Thanks and Merry Christmas!
 
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Old Dec 25, 2005 | 10:57 PM
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Is the steering wheel in a bind? Try turning the wheel back and forth while twisting the key.
 
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Old Dec 25, 2005 | 10:58 PM
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Originally Posted by bodabdan
Is the steering wheel in a bind? Try turning the wheel back and forth while twisting the key.
Oh yeah, I've worked that thing back and forth like no other, and it still won't budge.
 
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Old Dec 25, 2005 | 11:13 PM
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I don't mean to keep throwing out the most basic things, but is it in park? Have you tried any lubricants? Did it fail suddenly or has it gradually gotten worse? Is there more than one key for the car?
 
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Old Dec 25, 2005 | 11:34 PM
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Originally Posted by bodabdan
I don't mean to keep throwing out the most basic things, but is it in park? Have you tried any lubricants? Did it fail suddenly or has it gradually gotten worse? Is there more than one key for the car?
It's fine. Sometimes the basic things aren't so obvious sometimes. The car is a manual, and I've tried it in all gears and in neutral. Haven't tried any lubricants, because I don't know what to try out. It all of a sudden just failed. We cleaned out the throttle body and we're about to fire her up when I jumped in the car and voila! This new problem came up. And, unfortunately, there is just the one key.
 
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Old Dec 25, 2005 | 11:43 PM
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I would try compressed air in the lock to clean it first. I have always heard that liquid lubricants in a lock cause dirt to stick to the mechanism, but don't know if it's true. Just to be on the safe side I would try something like graphite first, and an oil as a last resort. If a new lock is $100 you may be better off getting a whole new column from a salvage yard. If you do, try to get the door locks too so you'll have one key.
 
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Old Dec 26, 2005 | 12:59 AM
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Napa has a graphite lock lube just for this situation. I have had to use this on several vehicles that did nearly the same exact thing.
 
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Old Dec 26, 2005 | 12:07 PM
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PB Blaster has a Teflon Dry Lube that works great on locks. The nature of my business means I have around 50 locks to keep up to snuff and so far I haven't found a better lube for them. Works wonders on things like door hinges, too. I use it on all my vehicles, as well.

I can get the PB dry lube at Advanced Auto and Pep Boys.
 

Last edited by Rockledge; Dec 26, 2005 at 12:09 PM.
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Old Dec 26, 2005 | 01:20 PM
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^^^^^^^ Neither store is anywhere near here. Do you know of any other places that might carry it?
 
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Old Dec 26, 2005 | 03:05 PM
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I have been using PB Blaster in locks for a long time. It works great. You will not damage anything in your year car. What to do is remove the column covers and see if you can spray it directly into the pawl/locking pin.

For exterior door locks what I do is put a rag under the lock to protect the paint finish, stick the straw in as far as it will go, then fill the whole thing with PBB until it foams out. Then I stick the key in multiple times to make sure the tumblers are moving freely before I even try to turn it.

I do this for car door locks too, any that drips inside the door will not hurt anything. Even Ford Rangers with that stupid dome lamp switch in the latch.
 
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Old Dec 26, 2005 | 11:03 PM
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I used some stuff from Napa called "lock-ease" that contains graphite. Upon further inspection of the lock cylinder itself, it looks like it's the button that allows the cylinder to be turned and the key removed. The button is jammed about half way in. I'm thinking that the entire assembly itself needs to be replaced. Any ideas? Thanks for the help!
 
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