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That's called a CTS, (coolant temperature sensor), I replaced that along with the ACT (air charge temperature sensor). I am tired of tossing parts at it, and I've had no luck with mechanics either. Guess its back to checking vacuum to the canister again.
BTW NOx was high on the emmissions test. That would point to EGR, I had it apart cleaned it, it works, and actually was pretty clean to begin with. I changed the EGR position sensor as well. Each time I replace something I disconnect the battery before I start working on it, and leave it off for at least an hour.
by the way my coolant temp sensor was not working in my van when i had my promblems with the van my van has 2 of them also ,and i replaced both of them,seems that ever since i changed it out 1 of my last items i did with this van it ran much much better,the parts guy and myself had a hard time to find 1 of them and its located right behind the distrbutor cap,this is the 1 that got my temp gauge working again.hope this helps ,tired of throwing parts at it sucks i had to do it,but i have a better running van again,i use it for bread delivery and depend on it.have you had any coolent leak latly that could have fryed any of your electrical componets???always disconnecting the battery is good thing to do to have comp reset and find proper operating for the engine,my van took about 1 week after temp sensor was installed to run better.have a great nite
As far as I know the 4.9L has one CTS, and temperature sending unit which works the temp gauge. That sending unit only works the gauge and the gauge works. I will look in the shop manual and see what's what.
I read a TSB Issue: Rough idle, hesitation on acceleration, and/or stall after startup with no DTC's present may occur on some vehicles. This concern is noted at 30,000 miles or greater. This may be caused by the throttle body gasket leaking, resulting in internal throttle body air passage due to vacuum.
Action: replace TB gasket with a revised gasket (F5TZ-9E936-BA).
I have the start stall problem, and lack of power cold. I checked for vacuum leaks, found none, but I think this TSB is referring to an internal leak. Would it show on a vacuum gauge or spraying carb cleaner on the outside of the TB gasket? That is if the leak is internal?
Is it worth replacing the TB gasket?
Thanks
Frank D
Last edited by demarpaint; Jan 30, 2006 at 05:13 AM.
UPdate: Replaced TB gasket, NG. Made a blocking plate out of cardboard and blocked off the EGR valve to see what would happen. Same problems, so EGR is good. Still looking for vacuum leaks, and can't find any. Tomorrow I check timing with SPOUT connected and block vacuum to the FP regulator.
It starts stalls, restarts runs about 45 seconds and stalls again. As if it were programmed to do this.
I did a final search for vacuum leaks today again, and found the EGR to be leaking vacuum around the diaphragm again. Sometimes it does sometimes it doesn't. I've tested it hot and cold. I replaced it today, no vacuum leaks with the new one. Base ignition timing was 1* above the mark the shop manual calls for. I adjusted it, seems to run about the same, starts once then stalls and runs fine now.
I decided to disconnect the battery again so it could "re-learn", with the timing adjusted. Started and ran fine, I took it for about a 45 minute drive and it seems OK.
Will let it sit a few days, since I won't be able to drive it for a while anyway.
Thanks for everyone's help, hopefully I am done with it
Did you ever put a fuel pressure gauge on the system? I'm interested in if there was pressure in the fuel rail after a period of time.
My thought would be that the pressure bleeds down while sitting overnight and takes a bit to come back up to pressure. the vehicle might run on the fuel that is sitting in the bottom of the fuel tank selector valve for a bit, but crap out until the pumps come on line and fill it back up. http://www.stangler.com/motorsports/...alve/index.htm
I personally did not put a FP gauge on it. I didn't have one, or access to one. Early on one of the 2 mechanics I had it to claims he checked fuel pressure and it was within specs. I later changed the Fuel Pump and pressure regulator since I had those parts and figured it wouldn't hurt.
What I did do was key on and off several times listening to the pump pressurize the system before start up and it did nothing with either the old or new pump and regulator.
On another issue, about 1,000 miles ago I changed front brakes and calipers, one was hanging up. I changed both. Took it for a nice test drive yesterday, and the right front caliper is hanging up. Some things never cease to amaze me! I am taking a rest from this van for the balance of the week.
A few days ago, I did a final search for vacuum leaks again, and found the EGR to be leaking vacuum around the diaphragm this time. Sometimes it does, sometimes it doesn't. I've tested it hot and cold. I replaced it, no vacuum leaks with the new one. Base ignition timing was 1* above the mark the shop manual calls for. I adjusted it, seems to run about the same, starts once then stalls and runs fine now.
I decided to disconnect the battery again so it could "re-learn", with the timing adjusted, and new EGR. It started and ran fine after the adjustments, I took it for about a 45 minute drive and it seems OK.
A few days later the best I could get for a cold start is: it starts, stalls once then runs fine! I will settle for that. EGR must have had an intermittent problem, that is all I can think of.
dermarpaint i have a 1987 e 150 that has similar probs,it starts when cold has a lil rough idle then may stall if i dont keep foot on gas.it does this untill van warms up then when its warm and in park van will find a high idle ,sometimes it finds the correct idle but most of the time a high idle.i said to myself i can live with it running like that (high idle as long as the van keeps running)i put a lot of time and parts in this old van and got frustrated to the point that a vacuum line was the culprit in my van along with a tune up.it seems ford had some issues with the egr valve and the whole air passage system in these vans.ie throtle gaskets /egr probs/air induction/ ford never got this corrected the proper way thats why so many of us have these probs that are so common in ford vans.i know because we all had the best mechanics look at our cars and were lost to try to find the many probs with air induction in ford vans these years .hope this has helped in some small way.
it seems ford had some issues with the egr valve and the whole air passage system in these vans.ie throtle gaskets /egr probs/air induction/ ford never got this corrected the proper way thats why so many of us have these probs that are so common in ford vans.i know because we all had the best mechanics look at our cars and were lost to try to find the many probs with air induction in ford vans these years .hope this has helped in some small way.
No, the intake system has no "special" issues in Fords. These are general maintenance items. They come up more often largely because Fords trucks and vans are more often driven until they're quite old, pretty easily attributed to the fact that the engines themselves- pistons, cranks, etc- sternly refuse to die no matter what you do to them.
Now vac leaks, Ford has "special" problems with that because of those hard plastic lines they ran over the passenger exhaust manifold. But usually a vehicle has to be pretty old before they harden and crack. Rubber lines are hardly immortal anyways. They have "special" problems with valve cover gaskets leaking, I assume because they used crappy gaskets.
Diagnosing problems is tough. Still, not rocket science, vac leaks, idle air control valve stuck, throttle position sensor, intake manifold leaks, EGR valve, timing chain- all this is garden variety problems that happen when a vehicle gets up in years. I've also been to mechanics who did not diagnose this stuff properly. They're just not good mechanics and they can't see anything past what the code reader tells them.
No, the intake system has no "special" issues in Fords.
Diagnosing problems is tough. Still, not rocket science, vac leaks, idle air control valve stuck, throttle position sensor, intake manifold leaks, EGR valve, timing chain- all this is garden variety problems that happen when a vehicle gets up in years. I've also been to mechanics who did not diagnose this stuff properly. They're just not good mechanics and they can't see anything past what the code reader tells them.
Right on with the mechanics, not all mechanics are good at trouble shooting. This van had no codes, and no vacuum leaks. I found the EGR problem by accident. It was tested by mechanics (so they said), and I tested it with propane, carb cleaner, removed it and blocked it up and each time it checked OK. Then while looking for vacuum leaks for the 10th time I sprayed the back of the EGR valve immediately after start up with carb cleaner and RPM's increased. What was funny was a few days before I did the same thing and there was no RPM increase. Then while running I sprayed it, no increase, then another time it rev'ed up. I am thinking that the exhaust going into the valve at start up might have been causing it to open up a little before it should have? Sometimes? Not sure.
All I do know is it starts and stalls once now then runs fine and has plenty of power. No matter when I spray this EGR valve it does not increase RPM with the new valve.
Check your voltage and fuel pump relays.They are on the passenger side under hood on fender.Take them out and shake them.See if there broken up inside.