88 E-150 Problem update
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 139
Likes: 1
Thanks:
It only has one fuel filter, I actually cut it open and saw nothing odd about it. I never looked at the charcoal canisters, not even sure if this model year used them, the older carb models did. I will check them/it out. I tried gas caps I borrowed from my other van, didn't do anything to help or hurt. There is no calibration of this particular TPS.
The throttle body, and all components are clean and operating freely without any binding.
What would be causing the start stall issue? Would those canisters have anything to do with that, (if I have them), and the lack of power when the vehicle is cold? It almost feels like a carburator that's opened too much when its cold. But with the EFI there is no flap to see
Thanks for your time, this is extremely frustrating!!!!!!!
Happy New Year,
Frank D
It only has one fuel filter, I actually cut it open and saw nothing odd about it. I never looked at the charcoal canisters, not even sure if this model year used them, the older carb models did. I will check them/it out. I tried gas caps I borrowed from my other van, didn't do anything to help or hurt. There is no calibration of this particular TPS.
The throttle body, and all components are clean and operating freely without any binding.
What would be causing the start stall issue? Would those canisters have anything to do with that, (if I have them), and the lack of power when the vehicle is cold? It almost feels like a carburator that's opened too much when its cold. But with the EFI there is no flap to see
Thanks for your time, this is extremely frustrating!!!!!!!
Happy New Year,
Frank D
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 139
Likes: 1
I had a TFI Module from a van I sold, and tried that, made no difference.
I noticed if you gas it while its cold it feels exactly like the old carb engines did when the choke was opening up too fast? If it had a choke it would be a simple fix.
Thanks
Frank D
I noticed if you gas it while its cold it feels exactly like the old carb engines did when the choke was opening up too fast?
If it had a choke it would be a simple fix. Thanks
Frank D
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 23,666
Likes: 301
From: Easton,Ks
If you have an adjustable TPS you need to check the voltage it is putting out with a DVM. This is one of your main sensors at startup and if the new one is out of adjustment it will cause this problem.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 139
Likes: 1
The TPS on this vehicle is non adjustable. I have a new one in it, changed back to the old one and have the same problem. It was one of the first parts I replaced along with the IAC valve.
Thanks for the reply,
Frank D
Thanks for the reply,
Frank D
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 139
Likes: 1
Originally Posted by subford
When you changed the ECT sensor it was the one with two wires on it wasn't it?
Also the ACT is also in the picture at this time.
Also the ACT is also in the picture at this time.
I have not changed the ACT sensor yet. I think they almost look exactly alike. The ACT looks like its going to be a PIA to remove, but if it works, I'm a happy camper.
Thanks
Frank D
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 139
Likes: 1
Most recent update. New parts: IAC, TPS, CTS, ATS, O2 Sensor, Plugs,(which were perfect), cap, wires, rotor, TFI, Thermostat as per factory specs. Parts were not replaced in the above order.
After changing the ATS and re-cleaning the Throttle Body which was clean (this was the most recent job). It now starts and stalls once, runs for a minute and stalls as if it were running out of gas. It will stall if you try to move it without allowing a few minutes run time, and totally lacks power when cold.
Once warm it runs fine and has a lot of power, will start right back up once warm.
No vacuum leaks of any kind.
I'm getting there?
Thanks
Frank D
After changing the ATS and re-cleaning the Throttle Body which was clean (this was the most recent job). It now starts and stalls once, runs for a minute and stalls as if it were running out of gas. It will stall if you try to move it without allowing a few minutes run time, and totally lacks power when cold.
Once warm it runs fine and has a lot of power, will start right back up once warm.
No vacuum leaks of any kind.
I'm getting there?
Thanks
Frank D
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 206
Likes: 0
From: Piney Point Shores, Md
I pulled the ACT on my 351W the other day and cleaned it and it made an improvement on cold starts. Was acting similar to yours. Takes a 1" deep well socket, on mine it iwas under the air injection plumbing. Mild PIA
Make sure you take the voltage readings on your TPS especially the "VREF", should be @5VDC, Sig Return CLosed ~.5, Increasing throttle to WOT 1.0-5.0.
No volts=no work. True for ECT and MAP as well. fordfuelinjection.com has excellent articles on the ECC how it works and what you should see.
Almost forgot, make sure to pull your battery terminal to clear any codes on the ECC as well if you don't it will revert back to the same operation it was doing before even if everthing is perfect, of course it will have to re-learn after you do that so have patients. May not be able to determine if everything is fixed until you have a couple cold starts.
Make sure you take the voltage readings on your TPS especially the "VREF", should be @5VDC, Sig Return CLosed ~.5, Increasing throttle to WOT 1.0-5.0.
No volts=no work. True for ECT and MAP as well. fordfuelinjection.com has excellent articles on the ECC how it works and what you should see.
Almost forgot, make sure to pull your battery terminal to clear any codes on the ECC as well if you don't it will revert back to the same operation it was doing before even if everthing is perfect, of course it will have to re-learn after you do that so have patients. May not be able to determine if everything is fixed until you have a couple cold starts.
Last edited by smecomark1; Jan 9, 2006 at 05:48 AM.
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Logistics Pro
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 4,998
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From: Maryville
I believe you have injector issues, or fuel pump, this happens when they sit, I read similar with another vehicle, when the guy fixed it and got it running, he let it sit again, and it refused to start later. Check fuel pressure on the rail, I believe it's supposed to be 40 psi, if good, take out the injectors and get them tested. You can't leave vehicles setting, the fuel in the tank turns, destroying the in tank pumps, ruins the pressure regulators, tank switches and injectors. Injectors get the worst of it because the holes in them are small, the sediments of varnish pump into them, plugging them up.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 139
Likes: 1
Not sure if this observation helps or not. I had the air cleaner off, but the intake hoses that go to the throttle body were connected. I had placed a cover over them to keep junk out, and accidentally started the van. It started perfectly and began to suck the covers into the intake tubes going to the throttle body. No damage done, but the van started perfectly with these make shift covers that I put on to keep junk out while I was away from the van.
These covers cut the flow of air down tremendously allowing a very rich mix is my guess. Any ideas?
Thanks, all replies are greatly appreciated.
Frank D
These covers cut the flow of air down tremendously allowing a very rich mix is my guess. Any ideas?
Thanks, all replies are greatly appreciated.
Frank D
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 206
Likes: 0
From: Piney Point Shores, Md
These covers cut the flow of air down tremendously allowing a very rich mix is my guess. Any ideas?
Allows less air-(Greater Vacuum maybe) More fuel for sure.
Manually changing the Fuel to Air Ratio to a point it can start/run better than ECC Start; Perhaps the ECC cannot create the same ratio, due maybe to Vacuum leak or Lack of Fuel (clogged injector as Maple01 indicated?) or ECC/ECC component malfunction, ECC not getting signals in/out or not responding. (Verify component Resistances, VREF and Sig Return Volts), If unsure on how to perform I would be happy to walk you through it, complete with spec chart.
Allows less air-(Greater Vacuum maybe) More fuel for sure.
Manually changing the Fuel to Air Ratio to a point it can start/run better than ECC Start; Perhaps the ECC cannot create the same ratio, due maybe to Vacuum leak or Lack of Fuel (clogged injector as Maple01 indicated?) or ECC/ECC component malfunction, ECC not getting signals in/out or not responding. (Verify component Resistances, VREF and Sig Return Volts), If unsure on how to perform I would be happy to walk you through it, complete with spec chart.
Last edited by smecomark1; Jan 10, 2006 at 04:14 AM.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 139
Likes: 1
smecomark1 Allows less air-(Greater Vacuum maybe) More fuel for sure.
Manually changing the Fuel to Air Ratio to a point it can start/run better than ECC Start; Perhaps the ECC cannot create the same ratio, due maybe to Vacuum leak or Lack of Fuel (clogged injector as Maple01 indicated?) or ECC/ECC component malfunction, ECC not getting signals in/out or not responding. (Verify component Resistances, VREF and Sig Return Volts), If unsure on how to perform I would be happy to walk you through it, complete with spec chart.
Manually changing the Fuel to Air Ratio to a point it can start/run better than ECC Start; Perhaps the ECC cannot create the same ratio, due maybe to Vacuum leak or Lack of Fuel (clogged injector as Maple01 indicated?) or ECC/ECC component malfunction, ECC not getting signals in/out or not responding. (Verify component Resistances, VREF and Sig Return Volts), If unsure on how to perform I would be happy to walk you through it, complete with spec chart.
Thanks
Frank D
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 139
Likes: 1
Just out of curiosity, wouldn't a bad fuel pump show some kind of symptoms when driving? I've had them go bad in other vehicles and there always was either a no run condition, or lack of power when under load or at high speeds. I have none of these problems.
Once again thanks for the replies,
Frank D
Once again thanks for the replies,
Frank D
Freshman User
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 36
Likes: 0
From: SW Corner of Georgia
You might want to check or replace the fuel pump relay had a similar problem on a ford escort the relay would cut in and out causing the pump to start and stop. Might be worth checking had no trouble codes with that problem either. Even after changing almost 75% of the sensors and other parts same problem then changed relay problem went away. No promises but wouldn't hurt to try.