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First I will tell you about the truck.It is a 1979 f250 with the rear frame shortened to about a bronco length,dana 60 front and rear 5.38/5.88 gears,c6 with 3500 stall and a 429.I sucked water through the engine last run of the year and am looking for suggestions on rebuild.It is pretty much stock right now with exception of stealth intake and comp cams extreme energy 4x4 cam,dui distributor,d3 heads and 750 edelbrock carb.I am looking at either edelbrock victor cylinder head and intake or trick flow heads and a lunati voodoo cam with .588/.600 lift.Full msd ignitionwith 6al box pro billet dist. and blaster coil.This is a bog truck only never sees the road.Any suggestions would be appreciated.
I'm not an engine expert so maybe Monsterbaby or Pro or someone else will come in and give you more detailed info later but what I'd like to throw in: Don't bother with the Edelbrock heads. Get the Trick Flow street heads as they'll outflow the Edelbrock heads out of the box or if you really want to go all out get the A460 heads. The A460's aren't too much more than the street heads but they do require more specialized junk to work with them that can really bump up the cost of the build. Rob can give you the ins and outs of those, that's whay he's running. I'm using the TF Street heads and they're doing a good job for me.
What are your plans (if any) for the bottom end? Stroker or anything like that or are you sticking with the 429? Also, what's the overall budget for the project?
Trick flow heads are some nice pieces but if u will pay some more money look at Ford Racing Super Cobra Jet Cylinder Heads. They run $1029 a piece at summit.
I am planning on staying with the stock bottom end,it did a good job before and lasted for the last 6 years until it sucked in water.I am going to put the air intake inside the cab with a box around it becuase I dont have any glass. When you talk about the edelbrock heads are you talking the rpm heads or the newer victor heads?I am trying to stay around $3500.
Last edited by red4x40; Dec 23, 2005 at 06:28 PM.
Reason: forgot something
Trick flow heads are some nice pieces but if u will pay some more money look at Ford Racing Super Cobra Jet Cylinder Heads. They run $1029 a piece at summit.
If you are even considering those wait a month or so Kaase is coming out with a revised version of it, and plans on pricing them much lower than the FRPP version, and more in line with the TFS street heads, and is looking for flow numbers pushing 390cfm out of the box. He is doing this because of a decision to shaft him on the original SCJ heads that he designed by ford so he is going to be in direct compitition with them for 20% lower price and 10-20% increase in performance. But there are down sides to the SCJ, and new P51 heads and that is both have revised valve angles so standard pistons don't have the valve reliefs cut in the right place and either need to be replaced or, have new valve reliefs cut in them
Another thought on the SCJ, and P51 heads is they are based on the SCJ iron heads so have much bigger ports than the TFS street heads which are patterned more on the DOVE casting heads thus you have to watch the fitment of manifolds on them.
A460 heads in themselves aren't to bad (I paid 2150 for a new set) but it's the additions like the fact the intakes cost $600, and take custom headers since they use BBC exhaust ports, and bolt patterns. Plus once again they have revised valve angles, and thus require different pistons.
On a 429 I don't recommend A heads unless your planning on spinning it around 8500+ a lot the flow numbers on them are just plain too high adn in my mind are a little too much head even for 460s min I would recommend is 514, and in my case I am running 528, and leave the line at 6000rpm.
The edelbrock victor heads are ok, but even with them I like the TFS street heads better they are just plain a nicer piece right out of the box.
I have not even took the motor out of the truck yet waiting to get parts first.The motor locked up right away and when I pulled the dipstick the oil looked the same as it did before I went into the mud.I think I bent something in the top end because after I got all the water out of the motor it was running pretty rough it was running just enough to get on the trailer.It was a bad day for me not only did I suck water but had to replace ignition coil after first run then sucked water on second run then when I went to put it on the trailer the tierod broke and slammed into my rotor blowing it into 4 pieces which then cracked the alum. rim that was borrowed from my buddy.