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Not sure, but you may not have to tear anything off of the steering column. I had a small hole in the bottom, stuck the end of a metal coat hanger in it and it popped off. had the switch in "run" position, put the new one in and it took like 45 seconds. Just like in the first post I did. My ignition switch is showing signs of wear though, may not dig into that anytime soon.
L8R
Aaron
Nappers
Yes that works too, except that the pin is hard to locate without dropping the lower cover (only two screws instead of 4, I think). But sure enough, there is a little hole on the lower cover just for this purpose.
Caution, however, if you are poking in there with a coat hanger, disconnect the battery first and wait a while. You don't want to short anything out accidentally, even though the chance of that is slim to none.
Dave:
I'll send you a picture I happen to have. But that'll have to wait until I get home from work.
My 93 was easy to remove I just did it 10 mins ago. I am out to buy the part soon. I had an access hole already in the plastic that I could see the pin I had to push in order to remove the cylinder. I did have to use a flahlight to see the pin. It was the only thing to see in the hole so it was easy to find. I used a hanger to push the pin. I will post again once it is done.
Don't you love it, surfing the 'net while at work. LOL
Nappers
It's my day off. I just show up to take care of some paper work since my wife is at work and my kids are in school, and I've nothing better to do at home. But you are right, I do surf the net at work too. Guilty as charged, just not today
I would be afraid to poke anything into the steering column. I have about swallowed the airbag twice in that van, once just starting the van to go home from work, and once sitting in it waiting on my wife to come out of somewhere. Dealer replaced it both times, after considerable coercion, but it was still reasonably in warranty back in 95.
Originally Posted by copper_90680
Caution, however, if you are poking in there with a coat hanger, disconnect the battery first and wait a while. You don't want to short anything out accidentally, even though the chance of that is slim to none.
Dave:
I'll send you a picture I happen to have. But that'll have to wait until I get home from work.
I just replaced it and it took me about me about a minute to remove it. I tried to take apart the old one to replace the little parts to keep the old keys. Once I got the old one apart I figured it wasn't worth the effort. The second link in the original post talks about how only the first part of the key is used in the ignition and the second half is used for the door so this should be an easy make at the hardware store.
My driver door lock cylinder is worn to the point the key won't turn it. (works OK on all other doors). After you peel off the interior door cover, is there the usual clip holding the lock cylinder in? Any tips on best way to get it out and in? I may try the rekey instructions I just read on this thread. Thanks
My driver door lock cylinder is worn to the point the key won't turn it. (works OK on all other doors). After you peel off the interior door cover, is there the usual clip holding the lock cylinder in? Any tips on best way to get it out and in? I may try the rekey instructions I just read on this thread. Thanks
The clip is on the side of the door and can be removed without peeling off the panel. But from what I heard here, to remove the lock cylinder, you would need to do that anyway.
You can also take your new key and old key and have the last three notches cut in it to fit the door. The first three for ignition, second three for door lock.
Replaced the lock/key assembly; wasn't too terribly bad a job. After reconnecting the battery and letting the idle relearn, the van doesn't seem to idle as fast as before, and when I put it into gear, it slows consderably, the headlights dim, and the blower fan speed decreases. If I step on the gas, the lights come back up and the blower speeds up and all is well.
I have even disconnected and reconnected the battery again to reset the computer again, with the same results.
I've got a '93 Explorer with 128k miles; it's on its 2nd lock cylinder, about to be 3rd.
I lost my keys, so I bought a new cylinder from a parts store, and I have no idea how to put it in. I looked for an obvious hole around the cylinder to push a wire in to, but no dice.
The lock cylinder is now halfway drilled out and shows no signs of budging. Where is the hole I need to push in on? Is it a 'must' to have the key in & turned to RUN? And can I actually drill it out or will that work? I've never worked on steering wheel or lock cylinder stuff before; this is all new to me.
THanks for any help - I'm lost! Robert
Originally Posted by cookkd
Go to your local parts store and buy a replacement. On the bottom side of the steering column there are four screws holding the plastic trim. Remove them and let the little plastic part fold downward. You can now see the the little hole with the retaining pin below the locking cylinder. Turn the key to run. Take a punch and push in on the locking pin and at the same time pull outward on the lock. It should remove fairly easy. Reverse the procedure to insert the new one. After you push the new one all the way in, the pin will partially enter the hole. Turn the key to off to fully seat the retainer. Piece of cake......
We are all complaining about the extra keys. Has anyone ever taken the old and new lock to a locksmith and tried having the new one re-keyed to the old key? Wonder if that is possible.....
There are special impact pullers, that can remove lock cylinder without any additional operations. But the cylinder pin will be damadged, I belive you will not sale it....
Good thing for car thieft. it is noT popular here becouse there are many immobilisers here.
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