water pump problem
water pump problem
I ran into a little problem with my water pump replacement. mine is leaking and trying to give up the ghost. it is the high mount fan version with the pressed on pully . the new ones i can find only come with a 4 bolt flange to bolt a pully on to. can anyone tell me where i can find the high fan water pump with the press on pully. can anyone tell me what pully i can uses on the high mount fan water pump with the bolt on flange and it still work? and lastley can anyone tell me what is involved in switching to the other type water pump? with out the high mount fan and what all i need and what off of will work? it is a 292 in a 54 f100. also can anyone recomend a place to send mine off and have it rebuilt? thanks
First, the 4 bolt hub can be pressed off and then you could have yours pressed on. I doubt that you will be able to find a pump with the cast pulley on it, except in a salvage yard.
You have a 292, but it's in a 54. Did the person keep the timing cover from the old 239? You can tell if the fuel pump is mounted upside down. This is common when people took car engines and put them in trucks, which have frount engine mount holes in the timing cover. Sometimes, they would keep the car oil pans, which have a front sump.
There are 4 water pumps: 2 of them are small, and fit the 54 239 motors. Of these small pumps, one has the bracket to mount a truck fan, and the other does not (because it is meant for cars). Either of these pumps would probably need to be acquired from a specialty supplier, like Kanter's.
The other two are big pumps, and come on everything later. They come in the same way: a passenger car model and a truck model with a bracket for mounting the fan. I am guessing that both of these can still be gotten from NAPA as a rebuild, but it has been awhile since I checked.
Car pumps have the heater outlet going up to the right at a 45* angle. Truck pumps have the heater outlet sticking straight out to the right, horizontally.
Like I said, keep your present pulley and press it on whatever you get, after pressing the 4 bolt hub that comes with it off.
You have a 292, but it's in a 54. Did the person keep the timing cover from the old 239? You can tell if the fuel pump is mounted upside down. This is common when people took car engines and put them in trucks, which have frount engine mount holes in the timing cover. Sometimes, they would keep the car oil pans, which have a front sump.
There are 4 water pumps: 2 of them are small, and fit the 54 239 motors. Of these small pumps, one has the bracket to mount a truck fan, and the other does not (because it is meant for cars). Either of these pumps would probably need to be acquired from a specialty supplier, like Kanter's.
The other two are big pumps, and come on everything later. They come in the same way: a passenger car model and a truck model with a bracket for mounting the fan. I am guessing that both of these can still be gotten from NAPA as a rebuild, but it has been awhile since I checked.
Car pumps have the heater outlet going up to the right at a 45* angle. Truck pumps have the heater outlet sticking straight out to the right, horizontally.
Like I said, keep your present pulley and press it on whatever you get, after pressing the 4 bolt hub that comes with it off.
I have not rebuilt a water pump. Here are the reasons that I have not:
The first thing you need is a new shaft and set of sealed bearings that are the heart of the pump. The reason your seal has gone out is most likely because the bearings and shaft are worn. This causes the shaft to wobble around. It is very hard for something to seal anything that is loose or wobbling, whether it is a seal and shaft or a set of piston rings in a worn cylinder. This will cause the seal to fail very quickly. So now, you not only need a new shaft and sealed bearing assembly, but you also need a new seal.
Once you have bought those things (if you can find the right ones), you may find that there isn't a whole lot of difference between the price of hte parts and the price of a new pump.
If you do rebuild your pump, I'd be interested in knowing where you got the parts. Good luck!
The first thing you need is a new shaft and set of sealed bearings that are the heart of the pump. The reason your seal has gone out is most likely because the bearings and shaft are worn. This causes the shaft to wobble around. It is very hard for something to seal anything that is loose or wobbling, whether it is a seal and shaft or a set of piston rings in a worn cylinder. This will cause the seal to fail very quickly. So now, you not only need a new shaft and sealed bearing assembly, but you also need a new seal.
Once you have bought those things (if you can find the right ones), you may find that there isn't a whole lot of difference between the price of hte parts and the price of a new pump.
If you do rebuild your pump, I'd be interested in knowing where you got the parts. Good luck!
sacromento vintige auto parts along with joblot have rebuild kits, and i know that sacromento's comes with a new shaft and and such. I just use my case. anyone know what pully i can uses on the pumps with the bolt on braket insted of it beiong pressed on? thanks.
The pumps that I've seen all use the same size shaft, so you should be able to press on the 4 bolt hub of newer pumps or the cast iron pully of older ones, as you wish.
I have not seen the Sacramento Vintage Ford kits -- will check into them. However, I will say that the bearing/shaft assembly from a later, large pump (292 style) will NOT interchange with the bearing/shaft assembly from a small 239 pump. The shaft of the larger, later pumps sticks out further from the back of the bearing than does the 239 pump, and the back of the timing chain cover prevents the newer assembly from working in the small pump. I can also tell you that, unless you are a powerful and patient man, you ain't gonna cut the shaft with a hacksaw!
I have not seen the Sacramento Vintage Ford kits -- will check into them. However, I will say that the bearing/shaft assembly from a later, large pump (292 style) will NOT interchange with the bearing/shaft assembly from a small 239 pump. The shaft of the larger, later pumps sticks out further from the back of the bearing than does the 239 pump, and the back of the timing chain cover prevents the newer assembly from working in the small pump. I can also tell you that, unless you are a powerful and patient man, you ain't gonna cut the shaft with a hacksaw!
it should be a later modle pump as the motor is a 292 and i think a 57 modle. i will try calling the water pump place again and see what they say. thanks
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Water pumps
Not sure of the early pumps, but the truck pump shaft is larger than the pass car shaft. The pass car pulleys are also different from thre trucks. Pass car stuff is available, have 50 in my garage.
Frank/Rebop
Frank/Rebop
Originally Posted by Frank Rice
Not sure of the early pumps, but the truck pump shaft is larger than the pass car shaft. The pass car pulleys are also different from thre trucks. Pass car stuff is available, have 50 in my garage.
Frank/Rebop
Frank/Rebop
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I bought a direct replacement pump for around 40 or 50 dollars about a month ago for my 55 f100 Y-Block 272 w/ the high fan from my local independent parts dealer. NAPA can probably get this for you. I have the pulley that bolts to the four bolt hub. The hub is a pressed fit and can be adjusted on the shaft with the right tools. You could probably remove the hub and press your pulley on it or just get one of the pulleys that bolt on. I looked into rebuilding my pump and decided the difference in price and the labor involved made it more economical to just purchace the new one. Good luck and let us know how you fix this one.
Originally Posted by Burt280
I bought a direct replacement pump for around 40 or 50 dollars about a month ago for my 55 f100 Y-Block 272 w/ the high fan from my local independent parts dealer. NAPA can probably get this for you. I have the pulley that bolts to the four bolt hub. The hub is a pressed fit and can be adjusted on the shaft with the right tools. You could probably remove the hub and press your pulley on it or just get one of the pulleys that bolt on. I looked into rebuilding my pump and decided the difference in price and the labor involved made it more economical to just purchace the new one. Good luck and let us know how you fix this one.
F100 Pulley Set Up
The pulley I have came with the truck when I bought it around 28 years ago. I posted a couple of pictures in my gallery of the pulley mounted on the water pump. If you look close you can see the pulley has a large washer that bolts in front of it behind the four bolts that hold it to the hub. I haven't seen any of these pulleys for sale but I haven't been looking for one either. I didn't see any markings or numbers on it but I believe it is probably stock to the engine. I'll try to get out and measure it sometime soon and post those measurements for you.
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