Radius arm bracket rivets!
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Elder User
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 662
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From: CA
Radius arm bracket rivets!
After searching this forum on changing radius arm bushings (on a '73 F-100 2wd) I have found two common methods; Use a come-a-long to pull the arm forward, or cut out or drill out the rivets of the bracket. I discussed this with a few alignment mechanics, and all told me that the first method seriously risks damaging the pivot bushings at the other end of the I beam. So I've chosen to remove the rivets. Several posters have mentioned doing this in earlier posts. So here's my question:
These brackets are held on by 4 rivets, two on the side and two on the bottom. The side rivets should be easy, but the bottom ones are almost directly above the arm itself. With the nut and rear part of the bushing removed, I can easily get to the rear bottom rivet, but the forward bottom rivet looks like it will be tough to get to. How did you guys do it?
These brackets are held on by 4 rivets, two on the side and two on the bottom. The side rivets should be easy, but the bottom ones are almost directly above the arm itself. With the nut and rear part of the bushing removed, I can easily get to the rear bottom rivet, but the forward bottom rivet looks like it will be tough to get to. How did you guys do it?
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 128
Likes: 0
From: Morehead KY
I have removed several of the in different years of truck and i have found that a 4" or 7" grinder and an air chisel works fast. I just did radius arm bushings on a 1981 f-350 and a 1995 f-150. I have worked on older one they are all about the same time to do. about the same time to change out a rear spring bracket. good luck
Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 13,873
Likes: 3
From: Atlanta GA
I drill a 1/8" hole all the way through the rivet, then grind the head off, then hit the center with an air hammer, they pop right out. If not, then I just follow with a 1/4 inch drill bit. On some trucks, I have just drilled the rivet out progressively until there was only a shell of the rivet left.
On reattachment, I have found this bolt set up ideal:
bolt-lock washer-flat washer-frame-bracket-flat washer-lock washer-nut
If using 1/2" grade 8 torque to at least 90 foot pounds and use anti-seize. Never had them back off.
On reattachment, I have found this bolt set up ideal:
bolt-lock washer-flat washer-frame-bracket-flat washer-lock washer-nut
If using 1/2" grade 8 torque to at least 90 foot pounds and use anti-seize. Never had them back off.
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 392
Likes: 0
From: NC
Originally Posted by rebocardo
I drill a 1/8" hole all the way through the rivet, then grind the head off, then hit the center with an air hammer, they pop right out. If not, then I just follow with a 1/4 inch drill bit. On some trucks, I have just drilled the rivet out progressively until there was only a shell of the rivet left.
On reattachment, I have found this bolt set up ideal:
bolt-lock washer-flat washer-frame-bracket-flat washer-lock washer-nut
If using 1/2" grade 8 torque to at least 90 foot pounds and use anti-seize. Never had them back off.
On reattachment, I have found this bolt set up ideal:
bolt-lock washer-flat washer-frame-bracket-flat washer-lock washer-nut
If using 1/2" grade 8 torque to at least 90 foot pounds and use anti-seize. Never had them back off.
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 1,113
Likes: 0
From: Remsen, NY
Better be darn good with the torch if you try it, that hole can't be damaged when you're done. Some are good enough to do it. But if you get it wrong you've damaged your frame.
I agree, get rid of the rivets, then it's easier next time. I used a grinder, a 3" air disc cutter and an air chisel.
I agree, get rid of the rivets, then it's easier next time. I used a grinder, a 3" air disc cutter and an air chisel.
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