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It seems that the clutch on my sons '93 4X4 is starting to slip. As I bought the thing used, I have no idea how old the clutch might be, but obviously it needs to be replaced. Any tips/tricks/hints for doing this job? Never done a clutch on a 4X4, but I would think that I'll need to remove the transfer case. Looking underneith, I'll have to remove an exhaust cross member. How heavy are these trannys? This will be a driveway job, on my back. Looks like a clutch/pressure plate is about $130 at Autozone, another $10 for the pilot bearing. Anything else I should consider replacing while I'm in there?
Plan on spending the day doing the job. You will need a long extension (24" works great)with a wobble to get to the top tranny mounting bolts from the underside. I dont quite remember the bolt size though. I dropped mine using a floor jack and I removed the tranny/transfer case as an assy, it is not really heavy like an auto just awkward. Dont forget to replace the slave cylinder/throw out assy, if it goes bad after the repair you will have to drop the tranny again. When I did mine it was a Ford only part and expensive too! Also I removed both driveshafts to do the job - not a necessity just gets them out of the way! Dont forget to remove the shift lever, no matter how hard you jerk that shifter ball does not want to go thru the rubber boot! lol. When you refill the tranny and transfer case use synthetic lube. I did my first clutch w/140,000 miles. I dont drive like granny but dont exactly spin tires at every start. On my friends explorer we have done a clutch at 60,000 mile intervals.
you have a fun job ahead of you. A nice long exstension is a great device to have to get those top bolts yup. I did a 93 a while back and i never touched the exhaust I dont think I did have a hell of a time getting that cross member out of the exhaust yes but i never took the exhaust apart. Remeber to resurface the flywheel and yes if you have a slave cylinder you better change that too while the tranny is out. I like to use 3 floor jacks to hold the tranny in place while pullin git out and putting it in. A couple of the cheep 20 or 30 canadian floor jacks work fine for this job. Sounds like you will have help with your job so that allways makes life easier to have support. hehehe I like to leave the axel in the back of the tranny so the oil doesnt spill all over the place. It is a bit of a hassle but no oil is better than a mess. once i tried to bag the rear output shaft but it only lasted so long. haredest part i think is realigning the tranny and engine back together. It seems so easy but can be such a pain in the but
John_1953, post back after the job or if you have any more questions. Telling everyone else little tips and tricks that may have helped you doing your install may help us all when we may have to do/redo the job. The only other tip I have is: one of the three times I helped by buddy with his 92 clutch it was 35d outside and drizzling rain. real PITA!! But it was do the replacement in the poor elements or walk in the poor elements and Austin has allot of hills! lol also get a clutch alignmet tool (about 5.00) to line up the clutch or you will never get it stabbed!
P.S. Just think-this will give you and your son some quality time together
Going to do this tomorrow (finally). I can't belive how hard it is to find someplace to get a flywheel turned in the Austin area. I gave up on getting it turned and ended up buying a new one ($58). Will post any tips after it is complete.
My 93 I had to pull the exhaust for sure but mine is also aftermarket exhaust. The radius arm bushing brackets don't get in the way so that's not an issues. You'll likely need a new tranny mount. As mentioned, replace the slave cylinder now. It may not appear to leak to the outside but the internal seal goes and the piston doesn't move like when new. This causes gear grinding.
Last thing to look at is the rear main and oil pan gasket. Deal replaced my oile pan gasket 2x for leaks under warranty. There is a new upgraded pan gasket thicker at the rear main cap 1/2 circle. I just looked at my rear main and there is a slight gap from the seal to the crank so It's gotta get replaced.
All done, works like a charm. There is no way to get the tranny out without removing the exhaust, the exhaust cross memeber does not allow enough clearence. The exhaust came out pretty easy, I removed it at the flanges to the manifods and the 2 bolt hook up between the converter and the muffler. You deffinately need long extensions to get the top bolts on the tranny. I used 3 10" extensions and it worked perfectly. Everything else is pretty straight forward. These trannys are not very heavy. I used one floor jack. Having a helper is a must though. I got lucky putting the tranny back in. I expected a hassle getting it aligned, but it slipped right in. I did remove the transfer case. I onlt lost a little fluid out of the speedometer cable hole.
Yeah the tranny seems ligther than the transfer case. Sounds good for you. Waiting to get my transmission in a couple days. thank god for good freinds here in the nieghborhood lending me their extra car in the meantime! Funny thing I found - Napa, Autozone, Checkers...all had the same "new" clutch kit and all made in China from the same source. So I went with the cheapest. $150 at checker. So I'm rebuilding my American car with parts made in China where they don't even build cars?
The clutch kit I got was made in China too, some outfit called Fenco, most of the places around here carried them and the cost was $150. The flywheel was also made in China.
A few years back, I worked for a NAPA Store. They say the reason they use people and plants in China is to stay competitive. They used a Muffler as an example. To produce a Muffler in China, it only cost $4.50. By the time it is shipped, and everyone that handles it figures in their cost, and it passes over the counter to the Customer, it is up to $45.00. Seems to me, they could have saved the trouble, and just made it here and paid a little more for labor and saved on shipping instead of sending all our money over Sea's.
did you end up replacing the pilot bearing? when I did mine I did not and when I do it again I probably should. How did you get the old pilot bearing out? Did you also replace the slave too? How pricey are those little gems now? When I bought my replacement clutches I bought them from the local steelership for the slave, press plate, disk was around 250.00, so if the one from china is just as good I will get mine from NAPA next time!
Redboat - on my rig, I bought a new flywheel so I just used a 9/16 deep socket and a hammer to set it in the flywheel. If you're pulling the flywheel to resurface it, you can just pop out the old pilot with the same socket. If the flywheel is staying in place, Autozone has a "blind hole bearing removal" tool that you can "borrow". I just found out the borrow program is buy the tool and then return it for a full refund, or just keep the tool and pay for it. I went to Napa for the slave/throw-out bearing assembly. $85 out the door with tax. Just waiting for the tranny now...looks like I'll be on my back again all Sat getting it all back together.
Great to hear you can get the slave/throwout assy somewhere other than the stealership. The last time I replaced it, it was approx $140 from ford and that was 1 year ago Ouch!!! Good luck on you reassembly!!
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