I have an old Carter AFB 9502 (I think it is a 500cfm) that I want to rebuild. It came with my old 79 F100 and it ran fine when I took it off (except for consuming too much gas). I got a few question regarding this rebuilt, and please bear with me for my question - this is my first attempt on a carburetor.

1) I found this rebuilt kit in Summitracing for about $25. Is that all I need?
2) Will the manual for a newer Edlebrock 600cfm work? If not, can you please suggest some literature for the AFB?
3) I do not see a choke on this carb. How is this possible?

If you do not mind me asking in this post as well, my fuel pump is pusing upwards of 7psi and that is too high for my carb. I do have a regulator on, but if I want to go to a lower psi pump, do I need to replace the pump ecentric as well?

 

The rebuild kit should have evrything you need including the carb mounting gasket. You will need carburetor cleaner( the kind in a gallon can with dip basket) or lacquer thinner. Air pressure to blow out the passages after cleaning, every passage needs to be blown clean with air. The kit also has a float level gauge.

All kits have an instrucion sheet and parts blow up sheet and this is all you should need. Be careful not to loose the power enrichment rod springs and the accelerator pump check *****. Lay every part you take off in sequence on a newspaper or towel so you have an idea how to reassemble. Count the number of turns to seat the idle needles lightly so when you put them back in you can set them back to were they were. You then can adjust them for best idle after the engine warms up. This is usually between 1.5 and three turn out

I ahve never seen a stock afb come without a choke plate. Usually someone takes the choke butterfly and shaft off for racing.

There is no need to change the pump ecentric. The regulator will do the job all by itself 3 to 5 psi is normal. This will effect your float level setting. Too high a pressure requires setting the float level lower. 3 to 5 psi should work well.

Hope I have help you somewhat. Good luck

Roy

 

Well, aparently, someone did then take the choke off. Wonder if I can put it back on.

 

You will need to find the shaft, butterfly plate, shaft end levers, choke rod. If this is a divorced choke there is a rod to the choke coil and choke pull off/unloader diaphragm. If this is an integral choke you should have the choke coil and housing on the carb main body. You most likely can find these at a junk yard.

Roy

 

Hmmm! I think I will need to have a better understanding of choke to put choke back on.
Here is an alternate plan: the truck is running on a stock Edlebrock 600cfm. What if I change the jets to .095 and rods to .073X.042? The engine is 302 and I feel the 600cfm is a little too big for it.
The recalibration kit that I am looking at in Summitracing is EDL-1487. Following are the needle and jet selection in the kit:
Metering Rods (Pair) Metering Jets (Pair)
.070 x .037 .095
.073 x .042 .098
.073 x .047 .101

Will greatly appreciate your input.

 

The 600 cfm edelbrock uses mechanical secondary plates and a secondary air valve. This should not be too much air flow for your 302. What is the problem you are having?

The kit with jets/metering rods will not help if you do not have an air fuel ratio problem. The jets will effect all rpm ranges and the metering rods will effect high load low manifold vacuum conditions and acceleration. If you have a stumble on acceleration you should try adjusting accelerator pump linkage for a longer shot. Also stock timing can be improved upon.

Hope this helps
Roy

 

Are you sure it uses mechanical? I thought it uses vacuum. Part number 1406 with electric choke.
My problem is that after I fixed my intake leak, the truck is running richer. I am still to pull a plug out - dang cold up here - but I sure do smell the exhaust coming out now. Acceleration is fine. The truck had the Carter when I bought it.

 

The secondaries are mechanically opened. The large butterfly valve in the top of the seconday air horn is a depression operated air valve. It would be best to pull the plugs after a long run at full operating temp to see if it is in fact running rich. Installing the fuel pressure regulator may help quite a bit. The higher the pressure the higher the fuel level and the richer the mixture. Also make sure the air bleeds are clean - a squirt of carb cleaner down the idle and high speed bleeds sometimes work well.

Roy