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Oil Pan Replacement

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Old Dec 12, 2005 | 11:37 AM
  #1  
Gregg C.'s Avatar
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Oil Pan Replacement

Now that the trucks in the garage and I have a few other issues I'm taking care of it's time to do the oil pan. It's a '95 PSD. I did a search to find the easiest and quickest way to get it done but didn't find much. Anyone know of any old posts with a description or care to offer one?

Also every Ford I've ever owned had a oil pan leak sooner or later. I've gotten prices from 99.00 at Autozone to 220.00 from Ford. Where is the best place to buy this thing. Does it require a gasket? I've been told yes and no by two differant places?

Thanks for the help.
 
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Old Dec 12, 2005 | 11:41 AM
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the engine has to come out for the pan to be replaced. not sure about the gasket. i think they are siliconed from the factory.
 
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Old Dec 12, 2005 | 09:23 PM
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If the turbo was removed would there be enough clearance to jack it up off the mounts like a "normal" pan replacement?
 
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Old Dec 13, 2005 | 04:21 AM
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I thought I would also be able to take apart what's needed and get away with jacking the motor up for replacement. I guess I have to do some more research. Thanks.
 
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Old Dec 13, 2005 | 06:37 AM
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I just got through rebuilding my 97 Im pretty sure your going to have to take engine out to replace because theres not much room. barely fits in over cross member. Pan seals with a silicone sealent I bought a engine kit from international and it come with it in the kit. If I were you I would try and get some it was good stuff real tacky couldnt hardly get it off your fingers. Lot better than regular silicone. Good luck with the pan.
 
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Old Dec 13, 2005 | 03:50 PM
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yes that ih sealant is the way to go its "T442"(expensive but alot bette than rtv). in order to get it lined up and not mess the gasket up you gotta pull the motor. its been tried and talked about a million times. plain and simple pull the motor. you may wanna buy the dipstick repair kit while your at it. those tend to leak and come loose and then end up in same situation.
 
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Old Dec 13, 2005 | 04:15 PM
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Ya, and when ou pull the motor save yourself a bunch of time and move the trans back and out of the way so you have lots of room to pull the engine out. it comes right out and goes right in then. And do not pry the pan off. If it has the factory grey sealant you have to cut it off. Then it will pop loose. I would check the front and rear main seals as it would be easy to do.
 
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Old Dec 13, 2005 | 04:55 PM
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Yeah. My manual says to pull the engine. If you need, let me know and I'll send post the pages you'll need.

jimbo
 
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Old Dec 14, 2005 | 06:29 AM
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If your a cheap lazy ******* like me you could just braze the hole in the oil pan. This has been done by me on three different trucks and all are still on the road and not leaking. This is only on small rust pin holes. Make sure to rust proof the whole oil pan when done.
Also if you have just bought a used truck check the pan and rust proof that sucker before it rusts out.
 
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Old Dec 18, 2005 | 08:50 PM
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Better be careful how you weld a oilpan on a engine the oil thats left in can create a explosive situation
 
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Old Dec 19, 2005 | 06:21 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by chipper
If your a cheap lazy ******* like me you could just braze the hole in the oil pan. This has been done by me on three different trucks and all are still on the road and not leaking. This is only on small rust pin holes. Make sure to rust proof the whole oil pan when done.
Also if you have just bought a used truck check the pan and rust proof that sucker before it rusts out.
I agree. I have welded 7 oil pans (6 gassers, 1 diesel) all are stillleak free.

Originally Posted by Poohbear
Better be careful how you weld a oilpan on a engine the oil thats left in can create a explosive situation
Never had an explosion, but a few small fires though. [img]images/icons/icon10.gif[/img]

Jim
 
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