Oil Pan Replacement
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 407
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From: ct.
Oil Pan Replacement
Now that the trucks in the garage and I have a few other issues I'm taking care of it's time to do the oil pan. It's a '95 PSD. I did a search to find the easiest and quickest way to get it done but didn't find much. Anyone know of any old posts with a description or care to offer one?
Also every Ford I've ever owned had a oil pan leak sooner or later. I've gotten prices from 99.00 at Autozone to 220.00 from Ford. Where is the best place to buy this thing. Does it require a gasket? I've been told yes and no by two differant places?
Thanks for the help.
Also every Ford I've ever owned had a oil pan leak sooner or later. I've gotten prices from 99.00 at Autozone to 220.00 from Ford. Where is the best place to buy this thing. Does it require a gasket? I've been told yes and no by two differant places?
Thanks for the help.
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 113
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From: Bethlehem Ga.
I just got through rebuilding my 97 Im pretty sure your going to have to take engine out to replace because theres not much room. barely fits in over cross member. Pan seals with a silicone sealent I bought a engine kit from international and it come with it in the kit. If I were you I would try and get some it was good stuff real tacky couldnt hardly get it off your fingers. Lot better than regular silicone. Good luck with the pan.
Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 3,948
Likes: 2
From: SHELTON, WA
yes that ih sealant is the way to go its "T442"(expensive but alot bette than rtv). in order to get it lined up and not mess the gasket up you gotta pull the motor. its been tried and talked about a million times. plain and simple pull the motor. you may wanna buy the dipstick repair kit while your at it. those tend to leak and come loose and then end up in same situation.
Junior User
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 88
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Ya, and when ou pull the motor save yourself a bunch of time and move the trans back and out of the way so you have lots of room to pull the engine out. it comes right out and goes right in then. And do not pry the pan off. If it has the factory grey sealant you have to cut it off. Then it will pop loose. I would check the front and rear main seals as it would be easy to do.
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Elder User
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 894
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From: Greater Floyd Area, AR
Yeah. My manual says to pull the engine. If you need, let me know and I'll send post the pages you'll need.
jimbo
jimbo
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Tuned
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 363
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From: west central wisconsin
If your a cheap lazy ******* like me you could just braze the hole in the oil pan. This has been done by me on three different trucks and all are still on the road and not leaking. This is only on small rust pin holes. Make sure to rust proof the whole oil pan when done.
Also if you have just bought a used truck check the pan and rust proof that sucker before it rusts out.
Also if you have just bought a used truck check the pan and rust proof that sucker before it rusts out.
Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 5,903
Likes: 1
From: MICHIGAN
Originally Posted by chipper
If your a cheap lazy ******* like me you could just braze the hole in the oil pan. This has been done by me on three different trucks and all are still on the road and not leaking. This is only on small rust pin holes. Make sure to rust proof the whole oil pan when done.
Also if you have just bought a used truck check the pan and rust proof that sucker before it rusts out.
Also if you have just bought a used truck check the pan and rust proof that sucker before it rusts out.
Originally Posted by Poohbear
Better be careful how you weld a oilpan on a engine the oil thats left in can create a explosive situation
Jim
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