Is this an ok way to tie the rear end of my rig. I've seen it done this way, I just want to be sure it's the right way . http://home.earthlink.net/~jetmanjay...es/tiedown.jpg

 

I'd be inclined to say no. Not that it wouldn't work most of the time, it's just that one time... The reason I say no is that the angle of the straps is pretty low, so you're not compressing the suspension much. You want the trailer to absorb the bumps, not the rig, or it'll start working on those straps. In other words, when the whole setup "lands" from a bump, the rig's suspension will compress, causing slack in the straps. As it comes back up, it hammers on the straps (possibly exceeding their rated capacity, think of it like jumping on a bathroom scale), and it could also allow the rig to shift on the trailer--not good.

Jason

 

I couldn't get the link to work at all, page not found. Anyway, I generally tie around the axles and have not had any issues with it. The problem with frame tying is getting it to hold, as well as a decent angle to retain tension. Most trailers are too short lengthwise to be able to hook on the frame ends, so you would have to somehow find a place to hook up further in.If the link was showing the tire nets, I don't care for them at all, they do tend to work loose, but they can be somewhat effective, I just prefer to tie on the axles, the rear won't preload, but the front does. On the front, when reasonable, I have been known to tie around the crossmember. When using straps, you have to be very careful about rubbing, I have gone to using proper axle straps with a clevis through the ends to assure they can't pop off. The axle straps are quite cheap, have wear pads to keep them from chafing through, and have two strong metal ends on them, well worth the investment.

 

You have the right kind of ratchets, but the angle is wrong.On our transporters they have chain idlers that let us tie the "perfect" way (45 degrees diaganally outward and downward or vice versa)to control side to side and front to rear.Newer high dollar cars have gone to over the tire straps that let the car ride on its own suspension.Anyway with a short trailer like yours,use axle straps over the front and rear axles to the ratchets you have or wrap a chain w/ grab hook to the same parts.Be carefull of the brake lines.If you can,try to get the ties to run towards the four corners of your trailer so the ties will be pulling the car in all directions.If those straps have a orange thread in the center they are 10K straps, more than sufficient,just check your load after a couple of miles and re-tighten (I guarantee they will have shifted) and you'll be fine!Good luck! Mike.

 

Thank guys for your input. I took it out for a ride on the trailer yesterday and had it tied down from the frame to the trailer. It worked fine. I didn't like the way the straps layed against the fuel thank skid. Thats why I'm asking about using the reciever of the Jeep as a tail hold. I can compress the spring a bit more using the reciever tail hold than using the frame tail hold. If the straps hitting the fuel tank skid isn't a big thing then thats the way I'll tie it down. If it is a big thing then maybe I'll try the reciever tail hold next trip out.

 

i never tie anything down by the frame, because you still will get loose straps when the suspention compresses, and the chance of loosing a strap.
with that said, i always tie off by the rear axle housing first, then pull tight from the front suspention, wether it be hooked to the lower control arms or the front axle housing. by doing it this way, the 4 points where the vehicle meets the trailer are secure. there is no way you can get movement do to spring compression or unloading.

 

I couldn't make the link work. I always secure vehicles by attaching to the frame and really compress the suspension. When they're available, I use factory transport points; when not, I use clusterhooks and if you use that system correctly nothing will come loose. When transporting my trucks, I use clusterhooks in the front frame, and a D-ring shackle stinger in the rear receivers as attachment points. Nothing, I mean nothing....moves around on my trailer.

My own personal opinion is the less crap bouncing around on my trailer, or in my mirrors, the better. But, however you choose to secure your vehicles, use quality equipment that's over-rated for the job at hand. This is not something one should necessarily shop for a bargain on.

 

n9emz,
I notice when I use the d-ring stinger as a tie down that I can compress the rear end more than if I use the factory tie down points with the frame hooks.
I have no issues with the front so I'm thinking that I'm set to go if I use the stinger as an tie down point and the factory tie down points up front. I'm with you on not having the rig bounce around when transporting it from here to there. Thanks for you in put, I'm eager to see more ideas keep them coming.

 

The more I look at it the more I think I'd better cross tie to the frame(on the back). It will still take the bounce out and would pull the rig toward the back. The front cross tie would be pulling the rig toward the front. I'm thinking this would be much better and safer.
Thanks for all the good input, It is great to post and get good infomation. It has helped me to make the right choose in the way I haul my Jeep.
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Yeah. Provides more leverage where you can really crank her down.

I think the methodology employed in securing a rig is secondary to the quality of the rigging implements. As long as you've managed to secure the rig, rigging equipment failure is the prime consideration.

I'm not a big fan of cross-tying, which does not imply that I believe it to be inferior to anything else nor that I'd be critical of anyone else doing it. It's just that I've not found lateral load movement to be a factor where vehicles are concerned. Fact is, if one hauls a variety of vehicles different methods will be required to secure them.

As a general rule I frame tie, but you're often forced to be flexible. Here's a situation where I had to hook up to the axle housings.