Electric Water Pumps
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From: Tyler Co., West Virginia
Electric Water Pumps
Does anyone have expierience with electric water pumps on 460's? I was thinking about putting one on a truck that will only be used for mudding. I have looked at several manufacturers web sites and they say they are ok for street use but i wonder how well they would stand up to the water, mud, and vibrations in off-road use. If anyone can offer some advise I would appreciate it. Thanks Dave
Fleet Owner
Joined: Sep 2005
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From: Lake Tahoe, Nevada
Originally Posted by wvmudder
Does anyone have expierience with electric water pumps on 460's? I was thinking about putting one on a truck that will only be used for mudding. I have looked at several manufacturers web sites and they say they are ok for street use but i wonder how well they would stand up to the water, mud, and vibrations in off-road use. If anyone can offer some advise I would appreciate it. Thanks Dave
Just a thought.
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From: western montana
Originally Posted by Bdox
At 2000 rpm, your normal water pump will pump enough water to drain a 55 gallon drum in about 120 seconds. That is huge and so it takes a lot of power. Which is why we even think about electric water pumps right? So if you have a competition machine that runs for seconds or minutes, the electric water pump would be the way to go. But if you run your 460 for hours at a time, the energy to pump all that water has got to come from somewhere else. Where do you want to get it from? Carry a couple of 4D batteries? I don't think you want that kind of weight on board, so then you are talking monster alternator and big battery? How monster? I don't know the real answer here but if the truck runs for long periods the energy saved has to be made up somewhere.
Just a thought.
Just a thought.
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From: western montana
I just found a thread where a guy reported one being 5.8 but they certainly would vary...so...15 amps plus over 20 for a fan..starting to drag a bit on the alternator which would diminish return of less drag. ALthough the elec fan is only on when needed and I have no idea when amps load begins to be a problem.
I just decided to stay mechanical- maybe edelblah.
I just decided to stay mechanical- maybe edelblah.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 26,007
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From: Brentwood,CA
e fans draw a lot of current. you really only need your fan at idle , which is also where the alternator puts out very little power. so it is almost self defeating unless you get a 140 amp alternator which makes 80 amps at idle.
look at it like this. you are stuck in traffic,efan on,heater blowing,headlights on and you brake lights are on.
15+20+20+10. you are at 65 amps but the stock alternaotr only makes 61 amps tops. so it is self defeating
look at it like this. you are stuck in traffic,efan on,heater blowing,headlights on and you brake lights are on.
15+20+20+10. you are at 65 amps but the stock alternaotr only makes 61 amps tops. so it is self defeating
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Fleet Owner
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 28,609
Likes: 18
From: Lake Tahoe, Nevada
You could probably devise some kind of swithing mechanism that would kick up the output of an electric water pump when the t'stat opens so there would be less current draw at lower temps. But to offer the same protection that a mechanical pump offers you would need to have a pump that would provide substantial pressure inside the block. And therefore very high current draw and higher alt loading.
The difficulty is that every engine has it's internal hot spots, particularly in the cylinder head passages around the exhaust ports/valves. The massive output of a mechanical pump provides very high pressure inside the block because the t'stat provides a restriction. The higher pressure in the block increases the boiling point around the hot spots.
Maybe a scheme could be worked out to use an electric pump but to leave the mechanical pump in place. Then use a clutch of one type or another on the mechanical pump so that when temps inside the block rise the clutch would be triggered to provide the additional flow and pressure needed. In this way you could use a low draw electric pump for low engine load situations.
The difficulty is that every engine has it's internal hot spots, particularly in the cylinder head passages around the exhaust ports/valves. The massive output of a mechanical pump provides very high pressure inside the block because the t'stat provides a restriction. The higher pressure in the block increases the boiling point around the hot spots.
Maybe a scheme could be worked out to use an electric pump but to leave the mechanical pump in place. Then use a clutch of one type or another on the mechanical pump so that when temps inside the block rise the clutch would be triggered to provide the additional flow and pressure needed. In this way you could use a low draw electric pump for low engine load situations.
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