I've been hearing a "thunk" when I make a tight left turn.Today I looked and found that where the driveshaft goes into the front right rotor,I can move the driveshft around alot.I've been told its probably a spindle bearing gone.Also when I put it into 4x4 and turn left tight the front end on the right "bumps" like going over rocks .My questions are... does this sound like a spindle bearing?How hard are they to replace?Can this let the front tire come off while going down the road?And I've been told I need a certain sockett,where can I get one?Also I have auto lockers ,does that affect changing the bearing?
Thanks,Mark

 

I assume the socket is for taking off the wheel bearings? If so, it is available at about any parts store. You don't need an expensive (snap-on, etc.) one. I bought a cheap one and it has worked fine for years. Yes, it sounds like the spindle bearing. They are difficult to replace only because you must disassemble everything to get to it. You will need a puller, body type bearing puller that pulls small bearings, to get the old one out. Otherwise is takes a lot of careful work with a chisel to remove it. Once removed, the new bearing simply presses in. No, the tire will not leave the vehicle. The tire is held on by the wheel bearings. If you try this job yourself, ensure that you correctly adjust the wheel bearings! One customer I had just screwed the adjusting nut on by hand. Soon after, I was replacing his spindles and rotors.

 

What all is envolved in adjusting the bearings? Is there a certain footpound they should be?

 

Mark,

Your assessment would seem to be correct as to the source of the problem. The "wrench" you need is a Dana44 spindle nut wrench available through most parts and tool suppliers. When you remove the spindle nuts you will end up with a nut with four notches in it (that the wrench fits), a lock ring with a series of holes in it and a second spindle nut. When removing make note of the order in which the two nuts and the ring come off the spindle. They must go back on in the same order. The real concern here is not going to be the torque spec on the spindle bearing but making certain that the WHEEL BEARINGS are not left too loose or jambed too tight. The spindle bearing just kinda rides inside the spindle and only spins when the front axle is engaged. The wheel bearings on the other hand are constantly in motion when the truck is moving and if the locknut assembly is not reinstalled properly as toyscout2 mentioned, you will end up with a far greater (and more expensive) problem on your hands. The suggested torque spec for the INNER locknut is 50 ft-lbs. PROVIDED the rotor/hub assembly is rotated while the tightening is done to fully seat the bearing(s). It should be noted that the specs then call for a COUNTERCLOCKWISE rotation of the inner locknut of 45* BEFORE the lockring and the OUTER locknut are installed. If you are inclined to do things "by the book" thats the procedure.

Now, personally, I've NEVER installed the hub/rotor assembly using that method. You DO need to spin the hub assembly while you are tightening the inner locknut to seat the bearing however, when tightening the inner locknut I have ALWAYS removed the "wrench" fron the ratchet driver and just tightened the nut (while spinning the hub asembly) with my bare hand (not hands... hand) until I feel the nut stop/seat. I then install the lockring on the nearest locating pin. (IF the ring will not reach or line up ALWAYS back the inner locknut off ONLY far enough to let the lockring line up. The second locknut can then be installed then torqued to 150ft-lbs.

The REASON I use this method rather than the "50 ft-lbs" specification is that this assumes the assembly information is being applied to brand new components all the way around. In your case, if the wheel bearings are not a problem you will be re-installing OLD components which have had time to wear, seat and work all the grease into place already. If you tighten to 50 ft-lbs in this situation you are gonna have that locknut assembly way too tight and just taking it apart again shortly to replace the burned up wheel bearings and maybe the spindle and hub as well. On the other hand if you ARE using all brand new parts and trying to pack them all with new grease etc., the 50ft-lb setting has the potential to be INSUFFICIENT even if the hub assembly is rotated while tightening as outlined. It may not be apparent immediately but in a few weeks when things have seated and "worn in" there is the potential to have too much endplay between the hub assembly and the spindle. (Rechecking the endplay situation after about a week is recommended no matter which method you use).

The real concern when installing the hub onto the spindle again is that the rotor be free to spin without the bearings binding but at the same time you don't want to leave the assembly loose enough to let the hub assembly slip back and forth on the spindle which would be excessive endplay. Both conditions will ruin the wheel bearing(s) and/or the spindle/hub.

 

Thanks "Grey" Sounds like I've got my work cut out for me.

 

Hey Scurbiedog,
If you cant find a socket at Autzone email me. I think i pais 15 to 20 dollars for it but i have one as i said if you cant find one.
Mark

 

Hey Greystreak, I'm thinking I have a spindle bearing issue on my 95 bronco, all stock. The hubs were just rebuilt and converted to manual M&M loks. I get a noise around 35 to 55 and seems like when I sway the truck back and forth, I can hear the noise accentuate a little. If the hubs are free, then the axle is not turning. if the axle isnt turning, would I still hear a noise if its related to the spindle bearing? I know the spindle bearing seal is bad, I can put my finger up to it and shake it.

 

OP this is the General Ford Spindle socket.


That takes the Lock Nut of the spindle. When tightening it is a huge PITA because those 4 little legs are the contacting areas and will often slip/strip and you bust your knuckles on something. Now, Auto hubs are a little different but I think this tool is for all Dana 44 front axles.


To me totally honest, on my 78 bronco I had to do the wheel bearings, rotor, AND the studs for both front wheels. It took about 2 days mainly because I didn't know what I was doing. I thought it was some difficult job with a ton of small parts but it really isn't. Just make sure you keep track of any snap rings/C-clips and that you grease your bearings very well and with a high grade grease. If you're doing one side I think you could get it done in a weekend permitting you have the tools and parts you need.