What will cause a truck to tear up a new 3 bolt auto hub in 8k miles?? I had the drivers side hub go bad once after 140k miles (can't complain) this was the older 5 bolt auto hub, moaning/grinding sound in 2wd, then totally went bad, found pieces of the auto locking hub, all over the inside of the hub assy. Then replaced both together with new 3 bolt hubs (figured the other wasnt too far behind). about 8k miles later the drivers side is doing the EXACT same thing (moaning/grinding sound in 2wd usually on highway, if you switch into 4wd and then out of 4wd it goes away, then when you drive in reverse to unlock hubs, it may be fine for a week or so, then as you are driving, it will eventually happen again. **PLEASE** do not reply to this thread with "Auto hubs are crap, go buy warn manual hubs, I have switched and haven't had a problem since" I assure you that horse has been long beaten, there are still some of us who like the convience of push button 4wd, and don't mind paying the premium for the extra few $ the hubs cost, not to mention it is a waste of bandwidth, don't believe me? just search the forum. I just don't want to put another auto hub or two or three on this truck if something else is wrong with it where it will tear them up. It is just a very odd symptom, that is usually not mentioned when talking about auto hubs. Usually the common sympton is they just don't work when you need them most, and that is it, they just wont lock up. Mine seem to end up in a half locked position when you are driving on the highway in 2WD, I have not used the 4wd on this truck since last winter. just out of nowhere, you hear a grinding/moaning sound proportional to wheel speed. And if you stop the truck, get out and feel the hub it is HOT. Switching to 4wd causes the hubs to lock, the tcase to engage, and temporarily cure the problem, the hubs run cool when locked. when disengaged and released (by driving 10ft or so in reverse). It may be fine for days/weeks, and will eventually appear again while crusing in 2wd in highway. Any help on this one? Also these are new parts which come pre lubricated with the special grease they need, also when the last hubs failed, I completely removed the hubs, and cleaned them out, and there is no sign of damage to the gears on the inside of the hub, or the axle.

 

Your post is confusing to me for two reasons. One, because you've hijacked another thread instead of starting your own. Why?

Two, you don't want to consider getting manual hubs, despite that every single person on this forum has told you repeatedly that manuals are more reliable and cheaper. You want to spend your money and time on the auto hubs, which is fine, but then want people to help you fix them when the same people told you not to bother with them in the first place.

A good analogy is asking all your friends what kind of car to buy that gets 30+ mpg, outstanding reliability, seats four, and is not an SUV. Everyone says, go buy a Honda Accord. (Just an example, guys, calm down ) Instead, you ignore their advice and buy a Yugo. The Yugo throws a a rod at 15,000 miles after the transmission looses 1st and 3rd gears, the dash falls off in your lap, and the seat brackets break while you're driving. You come back in here with an attitude problem, and start insisting that people tell you what's wrong with the Yugo.

In short, I don't think you're going to find much help. You are trying to have your cake and eat it too. You're going to have to pick one or the other and stop trying to choose both.