Locking Hubs - Auto vs. Manual
Is it true that Auto hubs disengage when you are in reverse, even if you still have the transfer case pulled down in 4WD? I know they unlock while in reverse if you switch to 2WD. that is the procedure.
Is it also true that it is not a good idea to put the transfer case in 4WD and leave the manual hubs unlocked, such as in a situation to pull a boat up the ramp to use the benefit of a real low pulling gear?
Thanks all.
Engaging the transfer case W/O the manual hubs being in the locked position is a waste of time , it does nothing , the hubs have to be locked to the front axles in order to offer the 4WD help , all it will do is turn the transfer case & front axles , If the hubs are unlocked the front axles will spin freely .
My Auto lockers ain't working and new hub assembly's at the dealership are $300, $150 per hub. So I started looking at aftermarket manual hubs and one of their selling points was that the auto's would unlock in reverse even if the t-case was still in 4WD. I would prefer to stay with the auto's but it comes down to $300 for the auto's or $100 for the Superwinch manuals.
'89 F-150 300-6 5sp. w/ new style auto hub
Thanks again
Good luck
Ryan
Little bumb info there.
The auto hub locks when the axle tries to push wheel in forward rotation.
It unlocks when you back up with brakes and wheel tries to hold back on axle.
It has no way to majically know what position the TC is in just if the axle is trying to turn the hub forward.
What that means if in down hill atmmpts to let engine slow the vehicle the hubs unlock and your front wheels (despite TC in 4wd)will not help hold you back.
This is why warn made a delux 3 psotiton hub with auto lock and free.
If like Paul posted auto hubs just majically lock if TC is in 4wd warn must not know what they are doing.
Auto hubs are convient but they don't allow the engine to slow the vehicle down a hill expect by the rear wheels (back to 2wd).
As far as trying to duplicate the 2 low which was available with old dana 18 with twin sticks the down side is in 2 low you are greaging down engine output and using that (long lever arm) tork multiplation all on one driveshaft. If there is a week link you will likly find it. In 4WD low the tork is split into 2 driveahfts and front and rear axles.
The reason they stoped allowing a TC case 2 low was to protect the drive train from excess geared down tork.
But yes by unlocking the hubs and use of 4wd low you are back to 2 low and putting all the geared down engine tork on just the rear drivetrain (driveshat and axle)
probably be ok by your ability to apply excess tork and bust somthing has just been intentionally increased by your bypass of the interlock to prevent 2wd low.
(auto hubs)from my knowlege auto hubs fail from the small spring inside that is ment to keep the pressure on the "clutch" the hubs "know" when the transfer case is engaged because the axles turn thus locking them. i dont know about them disengaging in reverse, the only way i see that happening is if they are in fact junk. but back to the main failure of the spring. it is a small gauge light pressure spring that wears out in about 80 k it breaks and then that hub will not lock. replace with manual if you want a sure lock. yes it takes more time but 4x4 will be there when you need it......
93 F-150 4x4 302
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I do this several times a year. It makes for a slightly rumbly ride but it is good for the diff so I have read.
Also manual hubs are typically stronger than auto hubs and from what I have read they are easier to maintain.
Good Luck,
Jim Henderson
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