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<hr style="color: rgb(102, 102, 102);" size="1"> I have a '71 Ford, with the 390 engine, and I recently replaced the carb with a new re-manufactured 2 barrel like the one that came stock. The truck runs so much better now. The only difference is, the new carb has an electric choke, whereas the old one had a hot-air choke. I get nervous around any wiring, as I am not that experienced, but I wanted to know what is the easiest way to hook the electric choke up?
I've done some searching online, and should I just hook a wire into the alternator? How exactly is this done?
Is there a better way to hook this up?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks again,
Last edited by john_eldorado; Nov 27, 2005 at 10:49 PM.
I did this on my 67 F100 that had a manual choke on the old carb. You need to run a wire from the ignition that is HOT when the key is on only to the electrical fitting on the new carb. A small volt meter or test light can determine which one to use. I had some #12 stranded wire so thats what I used
DO NOT run it form the ignition very bad idea. it draws amps which will give your poor performance. Also why hook it up to the ignition when the alternator has a special stator terminal on it for just a electric choke?
Mike, My 67 F100 had an extra switched power source for extras on the ignition according to the wiring diagram I have. I think it was a light blue wire. It works fine as I wired it. I was unaware of a special stator terminal on the alternator for the electric choke. If it switches power OFF when the key is turned OFF then it sounds like a better fix than mine. But what ever way it is wired it must be OFF when the key is OFF and ON when the key is ON
I agree with ford390gashog, the choke wire needs to be attached to the stator terminal on the back of the alternator, that is how ford wired all of the electric chokes that I can remember. The terminal has either a black insulator or is marked with an S.
Last edited by Rubiranch; Nov 28, 2005 at 09:05 PM.
That stator terminal only puts out 6.97 to 7.04 volts which is normal but the electric choke element wants 12 volts. I ran the stator voltage to a relay that sends 12 volts to the choke coil as well added a Holley choke delay (thermister) in line with the ground lead. Holley pt# 45-267 (85R6161).