When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I'm Restoring a 82, and have discovered I have no juice to heater controls. Blower motor does not turn, no power. Fuse is good, now what? Changed out to NOS blower motor , nothing. I get no power at connector behind switch ( not sure if I should have power there) using test light. Basically have entire dash apart to fix other issues so where should I look?
really can't tell at the moment as I have the entired dash removed trying to track down this heater problem. Most of my frustration lies in that the color scheme on this truck does not match what others have posted, or schematics from hayes manual. If I knew which wire was hot on switch I'd just jump around the rest of this mess.
I've discovered this truck must have been made when quality wasn't important. LOL.. from previous posts I have traced the wires back to fuse panel, which doesn't match any schematic, and jumped around and eventually got power. The rest of the fuse panel is in shambles now, and I have no idea what fuse is for what. Willl be a long period of trial and error getting this straightened out. No panel cover doesn't help either since there is no way to identify what fuse goes to what ( since wiring schematic colors don't match) turning out to be a royal pain at the last minute
If not, then there is something screwy in Denmark.
the 1981 has a very simular wiring harness, to the 1982 but there are differences. The Haynes wiring diagrams tend to clump 1981, 1982 and 1983 together using the 1983 diagram.
The 1983 wiring is different than 1981 and 1982. Some circuts are rewired, and some plugs and wires switched around, and connected different, but still close to the 82 and 81.
The color codes should remain the same though. there is a Ford standard on wire color and the components that crosses the years. And models even. If the colors don't match then someone or something did something weird to it after Ford built it.
Are you getting voltage for your heater thru your ignition switch? My '83 had this same problem, and it was a sticky switch contact. I replaced the switch, and the problem is solved.
I've now got power in the heater circuit and have that solved. Problem lies for the most part in that 1.there is no fuse panel cover in truck 2. Wiring colors do not match hayes,chilton, or autozone manuals. I.E. heater wire turned out to be brown w/yellow stripe. different manuals list this to be either orange or red ?? Fuse panel array also does not match hayes manual? I've come to the conclusion they're pretty much worthless and should be reserve for camp outhouse use. Stopped at ford dealer today, no help records only go bad to 87??? very frustrating
The color codes for the wires of the heater have been pretty constant since the 60's.
I wonder why yours are different? Very interesting, and puzzling.
I hate to mention this, but a total rewiring may be prudent. Perhaps getting a harness out of a JY, 1981, 1982, or 1983, should be the most compatible. It would even have the wire colors that matches the books. Just a thought...
I'm going to try and suffer thru this, I'm 99%+ sure its factory wiring, I can see some ford writing on tape and looms. I went thru some similiar stuff on a 77 f-250 once and basically had to take the old part with me to get replacements, ( and the serial number ) I am going to try and find a Ford schematic before I loose all hope, never had any luck with the gypsy manuals regardless of brand.
I was ( past tense) trying to get power to blower motor. Schematic I had showed power from fuse panel to switch to blower motor. Reality was fuse panel to blower motor to resistor to switch. Member finally e-mailed me with color code that matched and then I could trace. Until I had a color I was lost since I had a truck with no fuse panel cover, and had the wrong fuses throughout. Still confused though why the colors don't match the published schematics. On to the next problem --- temperature control cable is broken