Brake question
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I have a 1967 F250 camper special which I drove for the first two times this past week. After the first drive the rear brakes would not disengage after applying and then releasing the parking brake. The second time they locked up at an intersection and I needed a two truck. In each case, the next day the rear wheels rotate freely. I checked brake cables and they are fine. This truck sat for several years before I bought it. I'm thinking there is rust inside impeding brake shoes from retracting. My question is, I have never taken rear drums off a vehicle that had had the axle attached. If I pull the brake drum/axle assembly off is that it or do I have to play with adjusting rear bearings, etc?
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From: "Islander"
You'll have to pull the axles, they have tapered cones over the axle studs don't loose them. The nut I believe is 2 3/8" across the flats, later D60 axles have larger nuts, axle tubes and bearings. Tomorrow i'll check the socket size and post as I have a 68 CS.
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From: 3rd Rock
Originally Posted by patcat
I have a 1967 F250 camper special which I drove for the first two times this past week. After the first drive the rear brakes would not disengage after applying and then releasing the parking brake. The second time they locked up at an intersection and I needed a two truck. In each case, the next day the rear wheels rotate freely. I checked brake cables and they are fine. This truck sat for several years before I bought it. I'm thinking there is rust inside impeding brake shoes from retracting. My question is, I have never taken rear drums off a vehicle that had had the axle attached. If I pull the brake drum/axle assembly off is that it or do I have to play with adjusting rear bearings, etc?
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From: "Islander"
I was correct last night as the socket I have is 2 3/8" round hex by KD Tools, part # KDS2434. Some people use a chisel, not me. This would be a good time to go thru the complete brake system front and rear, master cylinder, wheel cylinders and shoes.
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Last edited by "Beemer Nut"; Nov 25, 2005 at 02:38 PM.
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If you can get the right tools, DO IT. I used the old hammer and screwdriver trick to do my back brakes on my 70 F250. It's a fun job....hey if I can do it...
Last edited by FFCross; Nov 26, 2005 at 06:10 PM. Reason: mixed up front and back
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2002
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From: The Big, Oregon
Welcome to FTE!
Pulling the rear brakes isn't too bad, you do need the large socket though. The screwdriver trick does tend to chew up the nut pretty bad. Once you pull the axle, you'll see the retainer nut right there. IIRC, there is a nut, then a pinned spacer, then another nut, then you can pull the drum off. It sounds like you have broken springs in there, so you should probably just buy the whole deal and be done with it. New shoes, wheel cylinders, and springs. Usually, the drums will be fine, but you may want to have them turned.
Pulling the rear brakes isn't too bad, you do need the large socket though. The screwdriver trick does tend to chew up the nut pretty bad. Once you pull the axle, you'll see the retainer nut right there. IIRC, there is a nut, then a pinned spacer, then another nut, then you can pull the drum off. It sounds like you have broken springs in there, so you should probably just buy the whole deal and be done with it. New shoes, wheel cylinders, and springs. Usually, the drums will be fine, but you may want to have them turned.
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From: nevada
I had a rear brake lock on my f-100 once, so i replace all of the hardware on all 4 wheel. Amazing how much stronger a new spring is compared to one that has been on the truck for a zillion yrs. Especially if you are in the rust belt.
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From: nevada
forgot to mention, there is a special heavy heat/water resistant grease that you can use to lube the rub spots on the backing plate. Helps get rid of the squeaks and makes them operate smoother. Just a dab will do it.
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From: Anderson Northern Ca
baitmaster brings up a good point about the area of the backing plate that the brake shoes ride on.Several areas on the backing plate on my 71 F-100 4x4 were worn as much as an eighth of an inch.I tried to find new but could not and the ones at the junkyard were almost as bad.I fired up the welder and did a fillet weld then ground it back down to the original level.I use synthetic brake grease for all my inside the drum lube points,works great and does not seem to spread out as much as regular grease.
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