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Hey Guys, truck has a problem starting. I turn the key and wait for the glow plugs to go off, then start, nothing, nada, no sound. After futzing with it for 5 mins...the spring in the key cylinder also broke. Before this, there were a few times where I held it a "start" position and it fired up. Another thing I did was pull the key and restart the process and it fired up... I was able to get away with this maybe a dozen times. Now it's a little ****ed...
Ok, so you all don't get confused the timeline is like this:
1: started fine maybe 100 starts since I bought the truck.
2: the last dozen starts were kind of delayed before the starter kicked in
3: truck no longer starts...starter doesn't even engage or crank.
4: key cylinder has major play. It stays in any position, start, run, acc, etc.
So one question I had was, is the key cylinder spring loaded? Or is the spring somewhere on the steering column? It doesn't "spring" back to run position after trying to start.
The rod on the steering colums seems to move when I turn the key.
Do you think this is the key cylinder and/or ignition switch? Or key cylinder and/or solenoid?
Also, which is the solenoid, the one on the passenger side fender or the one mounted horizontally next to the battery?
1 Disconnect battery ground....
2 Turn lock cylinder key to run position......
3 Place a 1/8 diameter pin (drill bit) in the shroud under lock cylinder.
Depress retaining pin while pulling out on lock cylinder to remove it from the column housing.
To install key cylinder
1 Instal lock cylinder by turning it to run position and depressing the retaining pin. Insert lock cylinder into lock cylinder housing. Make sure cylinder is fully seated and aligned in interlocking washer before turning key to off position. This will permit cylinder retianing pin to extend into cylinder housing hole.
2 Rotate lock cylinder, using lock cylinder key, to make sure of correct mechanical operation in all position.
2 Connect battery ground cable
The spring is in the switch mounted on the steering column under the dash. If the rod going to the switch is moving with the key, your problem is probably in the switch. The starter solenoid is the one on the fender mounted horizontally not the one on the fender well.
The rod moves as I turn the key. Just doesn't return.
I will probably replace the starter solenoid and key cylinder tomorrow. I bought a new key cylinder tonight and it wasn't spring loaded. So, you're right, the spring is in the switch. Do you happen to have any instructions on how to access the switch on the steering column?
before spending money on parts you don't need, if you follow the rod down the column, you will feel the switch. it is held onto the column by 2 7/16 head bolts. remove the bolts and switch. now, take a small screwdriver and work (move) the switch back and forth. if you get full function, as in off, ignition on,(radio works) and starter turns and engine runs when start is released, your switch is good. then your problem is most likley the key cylinder actuator cam in the top of the column behind the steering wheel. this piece is a weak spot, and is only about $10 at the dealer. i have changed at least 50 of these in the past 15 years on different ford trucks.with patience and a shop manual, it takes about 3-4 hours to do.
If it's an automatic trans, try holding the shift lever up while turning the key. I've seen this problem on many cars and trucks (a lot of other people on this board have also). The linkage gets worn and can't engage the netural safety switch. Can usually be fixed by readjusting.
I have replaced the pot metal in the steering column three times it is not hard and I can do it very quickly now. This is a problem that can cause all kinds of trouble with the key switch usually caused by the shift linkage not adjusted properly at the trans. If you get it to work freely while moving the shifter on the column then you might want to adjust the linkage on the trans. the starter switch on the column under the dash also has the turn signal switch connector mounted to the forward most stud coming out of the column it is on a tin bracket just pull that off first and move it out of the way then remove the switch (this is a bear if you have large arms and are not real flexable). Remember the plastic connectors are very old and brittle. If you have to replace the switch have patience and use some finesse to seperate the switch from the connector. I have an extra good working switch if you need it.
Last edited by smiller4597; Nov 29, 2005 at 01:07 PM.
sounds like the actuator...not sure on the spelling . This is the"pot metal" in the steering column . This is a normal wear out item .
Check the ignition switch itself first , but it is probably the actuator .