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well guys it happened again. my battery is dead for the fifth time this year. it is going dead about every week to 10 days. heres the deal, i have replaced the alternater (two of them cause i thought the first one was a dud), batterries, wires, starter solenoid, voltage regulator, and some of the wireing from the alternater to the starter selenoid. i dont know what else to check. its driving me crazy. i thought i had the problem figuered out last weekend when the same thing happened. any and all hepl will be appeciated.
'75 F-100 4x4, 4" lift
16x38.5x15 super swamper TSL
mini-spooled 9" rear end
390 w/ cam,headers,
and 4 barrell edelbrock
the battery is the closed type. one you cant check the level in. the temp here hasnt been below freezing so they cant be freezing. and the voltage regulater, it was replaced a month ago. im beging to think i shoud just get the money and buy a whole new wireing harness to get rid of ths darn problem. it has been driving me crazy for months on end.
'75 F-100 4x4, 4" lift
16x38.5x15 super swamper TSL
mini-spooled 9" rear end
390 w/ cam,headers,
and 4 barrell edelbrock
Hi,
I don't know if this will be much help but I had a 1979 F-150 that I did up similar to yours and after a while I ran into a problem where the truck wouldn't start up for me every now and then. I did exactlly what you did. Replace everything!!!
Come to find out it was something in the distributor called (and dont quote me on this) the stata. it's a little plastic piece that sits under the cap and rotor. from what I was told this was a common problem with these trucks.
Either your alternator isn't charging properly or something is pulling an abnormal load on the battery.
You have to get a clamp-on ampmeter that can read DC.
Start checking wires.
Start at the battery until you find a wire that is pulling current
If it is the wire feeding the fusebox, pull 1 fuse at a time until it stops pulling current.
If it is to something else, eliminate loads on that circuit one at a time until you find it.
I found my drain on the second wire I checked.
The Wire from Battery to Voltage Regulator was pulling 3.2 amps with nothing running.
Replaced Regulator with Autozone cheapie and it was bad.
Returned it for a refund and bought a new one from NAPA.
I haven't had a problem since.
Good Luck
1973 F250 3/4 ton Custom
390 .060 over w/428 inside (422?)
Edelbrock Performer intake
Holley 4160 carb
14" K&N Filter
True Dual Exhaust
and more to come.
I have never seen a battery that couldn't give access to the cells.
There should be TWO 3"x4" caps that have all the cell plugs attached to them.
Take a wide flat screwdriver and pry up a little ,don't force them
Get back to me.
Now,If I remember right, We did the process of elimination with the circuitry for your truck right?
It isn't the stator in the dizzy, That's a different system.
Yours as I understand it is a battery drain> won't turn over/start
symptom.Correct?
Dennis
Please Don't Ask Me Any Tough Questions As:
"I'm Saving My Memory For When I Develop Alzheimer's"
Dennis, They are called service free batteries, and have been around for a while. Like the poster noted, you can't get in them.
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John
jowilker email me
[link:www.ford-trucks.com/users/jowilker|My Club FTE Page] Member since 01 01
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In the cool still quiet of night, you can hear chevies rusting away.
[updated:LAST EDITED ON 10-Feb-02 AT 12:36 PM (EST)]We have what they call "maintenance free" batteries
BUT, WE can get into them.There are Two Top covers that have the cell plugs for 3 cells attached to them.
You pry on the covers and off they come.
Except for an *GEL* style RV battery,I didn't realize that they made a battery that was completely sealed.
So you're saying they SEAL the batteries down there.
I'd like to see a photo of one of these.
Dennis
Please Don't Ask Me Any Tough Questions As:
"I'm Saving My Memory For When I Develop Alzheimer's"
i know what dennis is talking about cause i have the same kinda battery. theres 2 caps at the top of the battery the can be pried up with a screwdriver. my battery last sumemr was leaking acid from them.
>The Wire from Battery to Voltage Regulator was pulling 3.2
>amps with nothing running.
>Replaced Regulator with Autozone cheapie and it was bad.
>Returned it for a refund and bought a new one from NAPA.
>I haven't had a problem since.
Agreed
I had the same problem with the batteries. Turns out it was the voltage regulator. I replaced it with a cheap one and the replacement was a dud. I finally got a new one and it solved it.
-Replace the voltage regulator and get your money back on the other.
[updated:LAST EDITED ON 10-Feb-02 AT 09:48 PM (EST)]the battery is one of the sealed cell types. i just took it back and axchanged it for a new one no problem. when i replaced the voltage regulater i got it from from pep boys. can anyone test to see if its working correctly??? or does anyone know how to tes t one????if not i guess i will try getting one from napa. im also going to get a digital multi meter this week so i can do some trouble shooting just in case the voltage regulater is not the problem. i saw in some other posts some other things that itr could be. the electric choke wires. i have an edlebrok carb and it only has one wire, should i splice the two factory wires together??? and as far as my ground goes i un hooked the ground and cleaned it with a wire brush.
'75 F-100 4x4, 4" lift
16x38.5x15 super swamper TSL
mini-spooled 9" rear end
390 w/ cam,headers,
and 4 barrell edelbrock
Some of the sealed maintenance free batterys have an "eye" that tells you if the battery is no good. If the eye is Green the battery is OK , if not it needs replacing. It sounds like you have checked most everything but sometimes it is something very simple. Some people have battery terminal clamps that are add-ons.The original terminal clamps have been removed and new terminal clamped onto the old cable. Over time, these clamps become loose or corroded where they clamp onto the cable. When this happens you loose a proper connection and sometimes mistake it for a bad battery. These connections should be cleaned and re-clamped once in a while. Better yet - buy a complete new cable.
i don't know if this would help you out any, but here was my situation. For many months my truck had a charging problem. I went through several batteries, alts, volt regs and i couldn't find the problem. I was getting charge and power from the alt. I saved up my pennies and took it to a certified ford dealer. they had it for a week and figured out my problem, i had a drain on the switch that turns on the interior light everytime you open the door, which was draingi the juice. you might want to check something else besided the charging system.
Check, using a volt meter, your amps when the truck is off, when the truck is idle, etc. I don't know what the numbers should be.
just a thought.
mark
1978 Ford F250 4x4
460, 4 speed
35" BFG Mud Terrains on Weld aluminumss
L&L Headers, 3" flowmasters.
Do you have a test light? If so try disconnecting a battery lead from teh battery and put the testlight to the cable of the battery and the other to the terminal. Even better would be a multimeter so you can see how much is drawing. The only thing that should be drawing on a truck that age might be the stereo. Also you might want to go to a gas station and have them test the alternator with a battery load tester. Its a common tool and not to expensive so most gas stations will have it and it will tell you if you alternator is charging correctly. Sometimes the rebuilds are bad.
If you are still suspecting eth voltage regulator the wiring harness that has teh four prongs that plug into it gets corroded very easily. Make sure you are getting a good connection there
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