im goning nuts with this. I still cant get my 85 F250 to charge. the bat is new alt new. Both good. I have grounded the moter to frame and fire wall. even did extra ground on bat. still nothing. It will charge if i run a jumper wire from the "F" post to "A" post on regulator. I have put three regulators in so far. What could beburning them up. Father in law says they could have all been bad cause i got the cheaper one is that possible? Wanted to see if anyone has any thoughts before i buy the 40.00 regulator. I really need help. besides costing alot and be agrevating my father n law (a big chebby man) is rubbing it in!!

 

I hope you only left the wire from A to F on for only a second.

Try running a wire from the battery to the S terminal and see if it charges then. You may have an open wire or for some reason you are not getting power from the Ignition Switch.

Here is a diagram if you have an Ammeter, if not tell me and I will repost a diagram with a charge light.

 

i have a charge light. this has been an on goning problem. have replace bat, alteranater, and regulater. also replaced the selinoind (ceramic pieceon fire wall). I added more ground cause there was only one from bat to moter. made sure everything is grounded. tested all the fusable links. there is one wire goes from alt to reg the "s" post i think it has power but barly enoughf to dimmly light my tester. what is this wire? Is there any real diffrence besides price in a 15.00 and 30.00 regulater?
Thanks for the help

 

"also replaced the selinoind (ceramic pieceon fire wall)".

I do not know what you are talking about here. The only solenoid is on the fender for the starter. A ceramic piece is usually a resister for the ignition coil to drop voltage while running.

This one is for a light. The wire colors may be different but it will be wired the same. I made this one for a 1982.
The S wire will have a reduced voltage on it, I if I remember right about 3 to 4 volts. It is for self-exciter.

 

Did you ground the body directly to the battery? If not it's possible you're over charging and burning up regulators.

 

Do you have a voltmeter or testlight? Put one side of the meter or testlight to the negative of the battery. You should have:

12 volts on the "I" terminal when the key is turned to run.

12 volts on the "A" terminal all the time.

A small voltage of some kind on the "S" terminal with the engine running

A small voltage of some kind on the "F" terminal with the engine running.

 

havent grounded the bat to body but will today. i'll get a voltmeter from dad and check the voltage on wires also. thanks eveyone

 

just a idea make sure the voltage reg. is grounded good
had one with rusty bolts once & wouldnt ground the reg.
i relpaced everything & it still didnt work
the bolts wouldnt ground to the inner fender
so i ran a ground from the battery body ground screw & didnt have a problem
after that
dont know why it wouldnt ground the reg. but the wire direct to the reg. fixed it
also found out the oringal reg. was still good & altornator was still good

 

I agree with thenutisloose1. This is a common problem.

 

ill give it a try nothing else seem to work. thinking about changing to a alt with biult in reg.

 

Also check your regulator plug for loose or corroded contacts. I had a regular plug that the terminals pushed out of the plug (slightly) when I plugged it into the regulator. The tabs that lock the terminal into the plug were shot. For a temporary fix I pulled the terminals out of the pug and plugged them in the the regulator one at a time. Eventually I got a replacement plug and fixed it right.