I Appreciate the help in this forum. Like other forums that I have spoken in, I will always remember to help others with what I can.

Question: I cannot charge the battery with the regulator. If I bypass it and connect A to F on the harness it works like a champ. I don't think I want to do that perminately though. I have A,S,F, and I on the regulator. Only A,S,F are connected though. I is not used. The sta (stator or something?) on the alternator is not used. The bat, F and ground are though.

Now that you have all of that confussion, I just need a pointer or two on how the regulator is hooked up- I hope.

Like stated in my previous thread(thanx), A small metal box (3" x 2" x 2")is located next to the positive posts. The dealer thinks it is a relay. It has three wires attached. Others think its a fusible link. I think it has the words '..tte fuse in..'on the cover. Inside is a tightly spun fine copper wire. Probably hundreds of loops. It attaches to one end. The other end is broken.
Is this related to my problem?

Thank You for any help.

 

Do not touch it! It is a bomb! Call your local explosives expert immediately. The "tte" part of the code means it is set to go off around noon of 1/8/2000.

If I were you I would try to sell the truck by then if you do not get it removed. If you decide to keep the truck and not remove the time bomb, then you should at least drain all the gas from your tank and re-fill it to the top with water. This will keep the explosion down to a minimum.

Find out who did this to your truck and call him or her "Chevy Lover". They will probably never bother you again.

 

Sounds like the link to me. They are cheap and easy to change so I would begin there. You could take your alternator down to the auto parts store and have them test it for you...???

Good luck.

 

I - not used if you have an Ammeter, but if you have an Alt light it should have a green wire with a red stripe
A - 2 Yellow wires one to the noise suppression capacitor the other to 12 volts somewhere, could be at the starter relay the batt terminal of alternator or somewhere else depends on model of truck
S -if you have an Ammeter it should be the green wire with the red stripe, if you have the Alt light it should have a black wire with a white stripe that goes to the STA on the alternator and also to the electric choke coil if you have one
F - Orange wire goes to Field terminal of alternator

There should also be a ground wire from the alternator case to the voltage regulator case. This is to ensure they are both grounded, as the regulator and alternator use what is called case grounding.
When you connect A to F what you did was supply 12volts direct to the alternator field causing it to put out full voltage to the battery. You are right it isn't a good idea to leave it this way as the battery will overcharge. Then likely the plates will warp and the battery will die a horrible death
It sounds like your alternator is good. So either you have a bad regulator or wiring.
You should have 12 volts all the time on the yellow wire, and since you jumpered it to the field and the battery charged I would say you do. That means that the yellow wire and the orange wire are good, as the orange wire feeds the field.
The green/red stripe wire should only have voltage on it when the key is on, I dont think it matters if the engine is running or not. This is the voltage that turns the regulator on and off.
Let me know if this makes sense. I kind of babbled a bit Good luck
Oh yeah I still dont know what the metal box thing is. It could be a fusible link, like I said before, but I can't see it having any connection to the alternator system.

 

Sparky layed it out pretty well. Would add the following:

Jumping the A to F terminals will overcharge the battery (boil it out) and drain it if left connected with the engine is off since the field would stay excited. When the ignition key is turned on, 12vdc is directed to the S terminal on the regulator (ammeter system) which energizes a relay that internally connects the A to F terminals and than provides less than full voltage to the field after starting. If you are getting the 12vdc to the S terminal when the key is turned on (might hear a click at the regulator if old mechanical type) and the alternator is not working, sounds like your regulator is bad. HTH

 

This is the greatest news I have heard since I bought this thing!! If I was near you two I would supply the beers and carne asada for consulting. I won't forget the help from this forum.

Thank you sparky and Mulletwagon.

 

I am glad the info helped. As for the beers I live on Vancouver Island, if you are ever in the area we can split on a 24 pack and talk Ford trucks anytime My shop is always open.
Merry Xmas.
Sparky

 

I think I narrowed down the problem to the 's' input on the regulator. If this is the twelve volt input to turn on the regulator, I'm not getting the current through. The green and red striped wire attached to 's' on the harness is not drawing twelve volts whether the car is on or off. I wonder if the "three wire relay/ fusible link/ or whatever it is" is related.

I have no alternator light, instead I have an alternator gauge.

Any idea what I could do to test the wires on this relay looking device? Maybe it's a starter relay.

Thank You

 

Always nice to beat the commercial technocrats. Hope it all worked out.

Have a Great Holiday Season !!

Fl Panhandle (65 degrees today; a little chilly)

 

The part in question is called a "field relay." It serves to connect the charging system voltage to the field circuit when the engine is running. The shop manual test procedures are based on the use of the Rotunda Alternator Testing Unit. Not sure how one might test this item without that unit. If I understand your plight, the regulator tests o.k as does the alternator. Therefore, I suspect that you will cure your problem by replacing this item. You should be able to obtain it from a local part supplier. Good luck.

<font color="#f80732" size="4" face="Graphite Light">Stock Man
</font><font color="#0000FF" size="2" face="Graphite Light">1967 F-250 FE 390 4wd</font>
<font color="#0000FF" size="2" face="Graphite Light">1966 F-250 I6 240 2wd LWB Flare Side</font>
<a href="http://www.hometown.aol.com/tbeeee">http://www.hometown.aol.com/tbeeee</a>

 

I tested the 's' on the regulator by connecting it directly to the positive battery lead. It worked? The regulator came on and charged. I'm not sure if this is safe. If it is, I would like to run the wire through the firewall to a switch so that I could turn the regulator on and off when operating the vehicle. Any advice?

Thank You

 

Yes it will allow the battery to charge....OVER CHARGE that is. The system is designed to cycle automatically when it senses a demand and drain on the battery. No human can figure that all out while driving. The result will be a ruined battery. I can't see you cobbing your system
when you are on the verge of the "fix". I'm going to hide now because I don't want to be a party to this. [img]/dcforum/Images/happy.gif[/img]


<font color="#f80732" size="4" face="Graphite Light">Stock Man
</font><font color="#0000FF" size="2" face="Graphite Light">1967 F-250 FE 390 4wd</font>
<font color="#0000FF" size="2" face="Graphite Light">1966 F-250 I6 240 2wd LWB Flare Side</font>
<a href="http://www.hometown.aol.com/tbeeee">http://www.hometown.aol.com/tbeeee</a>

 

I think its about time I visit the mechanic next door.

 

>The part in question is called a
>"field relay." It serves to
>connect the charging system voltage to
>the field circuit when the engine
>is running. The shop manual
>test procedures are based on the
>use of the Rotunda Alternator Testing
>Unit
Are pre73 Ford charging systems that different than my 73?
I have never seen an external field relay, at least one that I remember. I thought they were all inside the voltage regulator. Guess I learned something new.
Couldnt you replace the old external relay and voltage regulator with the newer style like in the 73-79? I am sure it will work and the regulator is only about $18 Canadian and probably easier to get then a field relay.
Anyway Good luck and Happy Y2K

 

AFAIK, Ford went with a transistorized regulator for the 73-79 trucks as compared with the mechanical regulator used in the 67-72's. I don't think the alternator is different at all for any of these years. I have a schematic available for a 67 if anyone is interested in checking it out. Let me know.

<font color="#f80732" size="4" face="Graphite Light">Stock Man
</font><font color="#0000FF" size="2" face="Graphite Light">1967 F-250 FE 390 4wd</font>
<font color="#0000FF" size="2" face="Graphite Light">1966 F-250 I6 240 2wd LWB Flare Side</font>
<a href="http://www.hometown.aol.com/tbeeee">http://www.hometown.aol.com/tbeeee</a>