Well I pulled the radiator out of my truck today. (large crack in the top tank along the seam) I can have it cleaned, inspected and rebuilt for $90, or I can get one from a '78 for $75.

I say it's better to get it repaired than to take a chance on another old radiator. What's your opinion?

Also, is there anything I should check on/replace while the rad. is out?

One other thing (sorry) My brakes suck, and I need to bleed them, but a friend was in the process when one of the bleeder valves broke, so now it's a bigger project. When you press the pedal, there is a hissing sound, and you have to go pretty much all the way to the floor to stop the truck, but it seems to stop alright.

I noticed the front of the fluid resi. is wet all the time. And I have to refill the smaller front chamber occasionally. I pulled the cap off and the seal looks to be in good condition, but I put a piece of a twist tie (it was there) under the front part of the seal to make it fit tighter. When I got back in the truck and pumped the brake pedal it felt much better, and the hissing noise was gone.

I don't think that piece of twist tie is going anywhere, but could that have been my whole problem? Is it safe to leave it like that or perhaps I need a new cap and gasket?

Thanks for your time.

 

hey

id rebiuld ur rad. at least you know it'll work. who knows about the other

and for your brakes, id repair it with a new gasket or w/e. i wouldn't leave it like that long. that was prolly your problem becuase air was getting into your lines.

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 23-Feb-02 AT 06:42 PM (EST)]i broke a bleeder on one of my trucks so for the time bein' i just loosened the brake line from the caliper housing to bleed it. i've since traded the truck but so far whenever i see it the front end is still in tact so i assume it's still stopping just fine.

i would call the parts store to price a brand new radiator first. even on a stock engine i wouldn't want to have to worry about over heating on the side of the road somewhere. i don't trust old stuff all the time but if yer like me yer broke, and when yer broke yer broke.

if you are in central IL e-mail me, i think i got an extra one layin around.

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 23-Feb-02 AT 07:47 PM (EST)]To check your rad for how long till RIP.
with very little force,take the end of your finger and very lightly
glide it along the vanes up or down.
If they bend over really easy> The Rad is almost toast(rotten)
If they remain somewhat rigid,they are fine.

Now you look for seam leaks.


Here in Calgary I could have my friend with the Rad shop re-build it for say $125 with a 1 year guarantee or supply me with a brand new one with a lifetime guarantee for $175.
There might be a place like that near where you live.
Most rads in wreckers are scrap nothing more.
It takes a keen eye and the know how to find a good one.


Dennis https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gallery/sizeimage.php?&photoid=1733&.jpg



Please Don't Ask Me Any Tough Questions As:
"I'm Saving My Memory For When I Develop Alzheimer's"


78 F-150 429CJ,Silver
w/Explorer Pkge.
641/2-Mustang 260,Pre-World's Fair Car.
64-Fairlane500 S/C waiting for a 390-4spd.
68-Mustang 289-Sunlit Gold 80,892Mi
78-Buick LeSabre 403 4V
84 Volvo DL Wagon

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 23-Feb-02 AT 07:48 PM (EST)]Thanks for all the info. The veins in the radiator are pretty rigid. So far so good. Too dark now to inspect for other signs of wear. I'll look into bleeding the brakes using that alternate method. Also I'll be looking for a replacement gasket for the fluid cap ASAP.

Much obliged folks!

I'm in Pueblo Colorado, so it doesn't look like I can hit anyone here up on a replacement. Thanks though!

I'll have mine rebuilt this week, and be back on the road next weekend with a little luck!


Oh, yeah! Mil1ion, congrats to your women's hockey team for bringin' it home!