water thru intake
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
water thru intake
was out wheeling with a friend yesterday and went thru a water hole that was deeper than expected. water got sucked into stock intake on 88 bronco 5.0 under part throttle. pulled all plugs (cyl. 2, 6, 7wet) but couldn't get engine to turn over. tried with socket and rachet on crank nut with no results either. having to turn against engine rotation because nut loosens other way. any help would be much appreciated.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 29,941
Likes: 46
From: Drummonds, TN USA
Oh geez...
Check your oil and tranny. They prolly got 'wet' too. You may even have water in the diff...
I take it you plunged in up to the headlights?
If the mill won't turn there may be water in cylinders that were on a compression stroke, and water is incompressable. I hope you don't have any rod damage.
Also be careful turning old engines opposite the normal direction. If the timing chain is stretched it can skip a tooth.
Check your oil and tranny. They prolly got 'wet' too. You may even have water in the diff...
I take it you plunged in up to the headlights?
If the mill won't turn there may be water in cylinders that were on a compression stroke, and water is incompressable. I hope you don't have any rod damage.
Also be careful turning old engines opposite the normal direction. If the timing chain is stretched it can skip a tooth.
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 5,018
Likes: 132
From: Maryville
You have hydrolocked the engine, water got in the oil, DO NOT continue to crank it, you need to drain the fluids in it. I'd say it's the lifters holding it, they have turned solid, never done this before, so I can't say if just draining fluids will cure it. The very worst, you may have bent a rod, and that has it frozen in place, alabamabuddog had this happen to his 302.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 29,941
Likes: 46
From: Drummonds, TN USA
If the plugs are out, and the lifters have had a chance to drain off pressure (oil being a liquid too) it should turn.
Let's all hope its NOT a rod holding it, I've seen 'em bent in an 'S' curve before.
I'm trying to think of anything else it might be. Are you sure it isn't stuck in gear? Wheels off the ground in the back, clutch workin'?
Also try pulling the starter to make sure it didn't get jammed somehow. It isn't likely, but in a rare occurance might block the flywheel/plate.
Also check out the bell housing for dents & dings.
Eliminate every other cause in other words, before ripping the engine down...
If its 4X4, get the front up too SAFETY STANDS ALL THE WAY AROUND.
If the only thing not turning is the crank, the easiest way to inspect it (unfortunately) will be to drop the oil pan. This is best done with the engine out, but can be done from underneath. That's the only definite way to get a look at the rods and lower cylinder walls, not to mention bearing caps.
(ONEDIT) This may seem utterly dense on my part - but were ALL 8 plugs out at the same time when you tried to turn the engine?
Let's all hope its NOT a rod holding it, I've seen 'em bent in an 'S' curve before.
I'm trying to think of anything else it might be. Are you sure it isn't stuck in gear? Wheels off the ground in the back, clutch workin'?
Also try pulling the starter to make sure it didn't get jammed somehow. It isn't likely, but in a rare occurance might block the flywheel/plate.
Also check out the bell housing for dents & dings.
Eliminate every other cause in other words, before ripping the engine down...
If its 4X4, get the front up too SAFETY STANDS ALL THE WAY AROUND.
If the only thing not turning is the crank, the easiest way to inspect it (unfortunately) will be to drop the oil pan. This is best done with the engine out, but can be done from underneath. That's the only definite way to get a look at the rods and lower cylinder walls, not to mention bearing caps.
(ONEDIT) This may seem utterly dense on my part - but were ALL 8 plugs out at the same time when you tried to turn the engine?
Last edited by Greywolf; Nov 21, 2005 at 04:59 PM.
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Thanks for all replys guys, found a 5.0 out of a 90 f150 for $200 and will be swapping that. (and adding a snoorkle!) I've been told this will be a direct swap. Is that right? Same computer? Motor has only 48k miles.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 29,941
Likes: 46
From: Drummonds, TN USA
5.0 and 302 are the same. The top ends might be different - if they are both fuelly set it up with the best of each, and in fact try to get the engine complete with all manifolding and accessories.
If it looks at all as if it has been sitting, you want to be absolutely sure that NOTHING has gotten inside the intake, upper OR lower.
If the upper intake is not with it, pull the lower intake and make sure all the runners are clear. You wouldn't believe the junk I have found in used engines:
Washers, nuts, bolts, dead mice, leaves, dirt, gravel, TOYS!!!
Don't take it for granted that its all good - check it thoroughly.
If it looks at all as if it has been sitting, you want to be absolutely sure that NOTHING has gotten inside the intake, upper OR lower.
If the upper intake is not with it, pull the lower intake and make sure all the runners are clear. You wouldn't believe the junk I have found in used engines:
Washers, nuts, bolts, dead mice, leaves, dirt, gravel, TOYS!!!
Don't take it for granted that its all good - check it thoroughly.
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 5,018
Likes: 132
From: Maryville
Remove the distributor and spin the oil pump shaft after oil/filter change, never fire up a sitting engine without pumping the oil up.
Trending Topics
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 29,941
Likes: 46
From: Drummonds, TN USA
Some notes:
If you wanted to run a 351W, it would probably be compatible if you had a lower intake that matched the valley. You'd have to have a distributor from a 351W though, because the deck height of everything is taller (I recently had to break out a tape measure to check over a swap in a Mustang, and everything was at least 1/4 to 1/2 inch different).
A 289 is another way to go, if you wanted to stretch your MPG. I don't know how the deck height is affected going in that direction, but I'd bet it's equal and opposite. The bright side of it might be that a 5.0 manifold could always be planed down to fit it. I doubt there has been a 289 setup with 5.0 fuel injection - but anything is possible.
As far as mounts and bellhousings - any V8 from 255 to 351W will bolt right up.
351C and up is a totally different block, the bellhousing will probably be no problem but the mounts are way different, calling for a frame "saddle" swap out. The same is true with Inline-6's, and V6 engines.
The inline 6 is a similar mount to big block, and might even be the same.
ONLY a V6 will mount on a V6 frame saddle.
If you wanted to run a 351W, it would probably be compatible if you had a lower intake that matched the valley. You'd have to have a distributor from a 351W though, because the deck height of everything is taller (I recently had to break out a tape measure to check over a swap in a Mustang, and everything was at least 1/4 to 1/2 inch different).
A 289 is another way to go, if you wanted to stretch your MPG. I don't know how the deck height is affected going in that direction, but I'd bet it's equal and opposite. The bright side of it might be that a 5.0 manifold could always be planed down to fit it. I doubt there has been a 289 setup with 5.0 fuel injection - but anything is possible.
As far as mounts and bellhousings - any V8 from 255 to 351W will bolt right up.
351C and up is a totally different block, the bellhousing will probably be no problem but the mounts are way different, calling for a frame "saddle" swap out. The same is true with Inline-6's, and V6 engines.
The inline 6 is a similar mount to big block, and might even be the same.
ONLY a V6 will mount on a V6 frame saddle.
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Top 10 Ford Truck Tragedies
Joe Kucinski
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
2026 Shelby F-150 Off-Road: Better Than a Raptor R?
Brett Foote
2027 Super Duty Carhartt Package First Look: 12 Things You NEED to Know!
Michael S. Palmer
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 5,018
Likes: 132
From: Maryville
A 300 straight 6 is a direct swap with a 302, a friend did it, he had a I-6 2wd 85, did a frame swap from a 88 (I believe) 4x4 5 speed 302, he used his I-6 in it. From what I've heard, the 300 I-6 uses one 302 engine mount, the other is it's own. A 351W is straight forward, it'll drop in, you have no clearance issues, but the ECM's are different.
A 289 is a poor choice in heavy 4x4 trucks, it's a car engine.
If you have fuel injection, keep it, a carb is not equal, and off roan, injection is far superior, no starvation on steep angles.
A 289 is a poor choice in heavy 4x4 trucks, it's a car engine.
If you have fuel injection, keep it, a carb is not equal, and off roan, injection is far superior, no starvation on steep angles.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 29,941
Likes: 46
From: Drummonds, TN USA
Save every bit of it that you can. Take pictures of anything real complicated looking if possible.
Never cut a wire if you can help it, and always get all of the goodies you can - follow things back to the firewall, then look from there for a disconnect. You don't want to be missing any wire pigtails.
If you have time - strip out every bit of electrical and fuel stuff that you can find in the E-Comp, including the master harness.
Your truck should already have most all of it, but it don't hurt to have some spares around.
Never cut a wire if you can help it, and always get all of the goodies you can - follow things back to the firewall, then look from there for a disconnect. You don't want to be missing any wire pigtails.
If you have time - strip out every bit of electrical and fuel stuff that you can find in the E-Comp, including the master harness.
Your truck should already have most all of it, but it don't hurt to have some spares around.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
1930 Dodge
1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
4
Jan 17, 2013 10:00 AM
Celtic Nomad
Small Block V8 (221, 260, 289, 5.0/302, 5.8/351W)
15
Sep 1, 2009 06:11 PM
jpucovsky
1983 - 2012 Ranger & B-Series
15
Feb 13, 2008 05:03 PM
frank1
Ford Inline Six, 200, 250, 4.9L / 300
8
Jun 21, 2005 03:06 AM
DS02F250
1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
6
Mar 2, 2003 02:09 PM