i broke the fornt passenger intake bolt on my 89 f250 351w
was wondering what i could do i tryied the easyout? but that did nothing
any advise so i can get my truck running again
thatnks

 

The deeper you drill the hole, within limits, the more grip an easyout will have. The easyout has to be the right size (tip diameter maybe half the size of the bolt diameter-the hole a tad bigger so the tool can get some depth-I'd try to get the hole down at least 3/8", more is better, to a point-and make sure the hole is centered in the bolt or the tool might try to pull on the manifold itself). If any of the bolt is protruding above the manifold, you can try using a small cutting wheel (a hacksaw might be hard to get in there) and cut a slot for a big screwdriver. If the easyout still won't work (probably because it's not getting enough grip) and you can't cut a slot, then pull the manifold. That should give you enough of the bolt to work with unless the bolt is broken off deep in the head. Then you'll have to make the easy out work somehow, or carefully drill the bolt all the way out of the head.

 

What Polkat said is exactly right. My problem with most easy-outs, though, is that they are taperd and put more pressure on the outside of the bolt and adding yet more resistance to turning. My advice is to borrow or buy some straight extractors from Snap-on or Mac. They put less pressure on the outside of the bolt and more on the inside.

Otherwise, like he said, pull the intake and hopefully you have enough bolt sticking out above the head that you can get some vise-grips on it. Maybe you could use a little heat then to make your job easier.

Good luck!

 

the intake is already off so ill try to go deeper what do u use to turn the ezout drill? tap wrench?

 

Even though I don't want to admit it, I'm a pro at working with broken bolts, I've broken way too many. I'd recommend using a 1/4" drive ratchet and the appropriate size socket to fit on the hex part of the extractor bit. I'd assume it has a hex part to it, most do.

I don't like using a drill, too easy to make a mistake and you're much more likely to break the bit in the bolt, and then you're really screwed. I've had to fix that 3 times in the last year or so. When the bit breaks off, you can't drill it out because the material is so hard. You have to find a way to get the remaining piece of bit out of the bolt. Once you get it out, you can either try it again or call it a day and drill the bolt to the threads and re-tap it, hopefully not damaging the threads beyond repair. If that happens, you'd need to really drill it out and use a heli-coil to fix it.

Using the small ratchet you have more feel and control over the process and it's the better way to go.

 

Yikes! The bolt is broken off below the head suface?

Yes, you can use a tap wrench to turn the easy-out.

Drill the bolt as far down as you can. That will relieve pressure from the inside. Heat the head around the bolt as well as you can with a torch. Before you insert the easy-out, spray the bolt with some type of cutting oil to cool it. The idea is to shrink the bolt via cooling. Insert your easy-out and give it a try.

If that doesn't work, you may need to try Polkat's suggestion and drill the bolt out of the head. That can be tricky. At the very minimum you'll have to re-tap the threads. If you mess up, you'll have to take the head to a machine shop to straighten the hole and put in a Heli-coil.

Good luck! Let us know how you come out.

 

I've use the rachet and socket myself as I don't have a tap handle. It works fine. Helicoils are not too hard to install yourself. A coil kit for the size you want (same size as the original manifold bolt is fine) comes complete with the right size drill and tap you'll need, instructions too. If you go this route, just make sure then when you're drilling with the bit for the tap, that you drill STRAIGHT, or the tap might leave some shallow threads. I'd still try the backout first. Ain't broken bolts fun!!??

 

I assumed he has the style of e-z-out that has a square drive like a tap does. I agree that using a ratchet is a better way but a 6 or 12 point socket won't drive it. However, I have had some success using an 8 point.

 

I work with a young fellow who's a certified welder. His bolt removal method (which has worked everytime I've seen him do it) is to place a nut over the end of the broken off bolt, or at least on top of it if it's broken off flush, and then weld through the nut to the broken bolt. Then he simply takes a wrench and screws it out. The heat of the welding frees it up and the nut gives a good surface to grip. I have seen him have to do it a time or two till it "took", but it's always worked.

Now, if the bolt is broken down inside the hole, obviously this method won't work too well. Also, it requires some rather precise welding and heat control, and is maybe not something you'd want to try around any fuel source...

Might be a bit difficult on an intake manifold bolt, where they go into the head on an angle.

He arc welds it, but if you have access to Mig or Tig, that wold probably be better.

Me, I always use the EZ-out method, and try not to break the dang thing off in there (been there, done that!)

If all else fails, I drill it to just undersize and re-tap it. Never had to go with a Heli-coil, but it requires precise centering and drilling to keep from going off to the side. (Done that, too!)

 

Hey all.
I just went through this with a 5.0 block.
I purchased a drill bushing from Mc Master Carr (Part # 8491A843)
This bushing has an OD of .375 and an ID of .253, perfect for a 1/4" drill bit.
Drop the insert into the 3/8" hole in the manifold and drill through the broken stud with a long 1/4" bit.
After thats done ream the hole with a 17/64ths drill and retap the new hole.
This worked great for me, took about 15 min after getting the tools.
Drill bushing was around $25 with shipping, bits are 4 or 5 bux ea, and make sure you use a good quality tap. Try to get a single or two flute tap, they are much stronger than the four flute hardware taps.
Good luck.