On my 1996 Bronco I know the fuel injectors are clogged. I have a rough idle and a miss. I know I need to take the intake maniford off to get to the fuel rail and the injectors. There are 5 bolts along the driver’s side, front and back. There is a 6th bolt under the manifold. I found a picture of the intake and I know where the bolt is and I can see it, but…

How can I get to that bolt to remove it. It seems to be in the middle on the passenger’s side. Some smart guy has an easy way to reach this bolt. How can I get to this bolt???

The attached pictures are NOT the bronco, but they are similar and show the location

Oh, just to make it even more of a challenge - it is a torx bolt in there!

Thanks

 

It's been a few years but I believe it is a smaller 1/4" drive Torx bit. That and a long extension.

 

If nothing else works get a u-joint set for your socket wrench. Or try to jam a combination wrench in there (unless it's a Torx, as stated by My4Fordtrucks).

 

Actually I did get it out with a standard screwdriver

It must be taken out with a shaft and not a socket. The way the casting of the plenum is means both a 1/4 and a 3/8 socket can not stand straight up above in the space needed to address the head - no room. It also means a hex head can not be used at all - too wide and no head room. Argggg I understand why a torx was used right there.

Got it apart, got the old injectors out, the new ones in and back together. It starts and runs, looks 100% good but i still have that rough idle and bucking at certain rams under load. My mechanic told me this was injectors, but obviously he was wrong

 

Yes he was wrong.. not a surprise. Have you pulled codes yet? If not get that done and post up the results.

 

I have no way to pull codes. I took it to the mechanic to do 2 things, pass smog and fix the rough idle and misses under load. He got it past smog but the miss continues. I told me to run injector cleaner through it - it was "cylinder #4" injector - couple of tanks of gas with a lot of cleaner - no change, so I replaced all the injectors. It has new plugs, new wires, new cap and rotor.

Beginning to hate the thing

 

How's the condition of your fuel system; regulator, filter, pump, pressure? It's going to help you out a TON to have a code reader.

 

Do you have a brand or a model of a good OBDII reader. I run mostly older cars (1987 Vet, 1963 Caddy, 1991 3/4 ton ford, and this 1996) so I am late to the party. Also while I am mechanically inclined, it is not my goal to spend a lot of time on this type of issue. So a good solid used OBD computer at a good price level would be the correct place

 

I have an Innova 3030 code reader. I bought it about 10 years ago, works great.

I recently picked up a BAFX Bluetooth Scan Tool to use with the Torque app on my android phone. It's worth twice it's weight in gold...

 

most any autoparts store has the ability to pull codes on your year rig for free. the miss could be several things ranging from the TPS, plug wires crossed/touching which causes the spark to jump to a different wire. have you set your timing correctly. checked for vacuum leaks? I suppose your mechanic did all this stuff though right? did he pull up any codes?

 

Hi

Thanks

If the mechanic had done well, I would not be doing the work myself. I really don't feel that I know a good honest mechanic. I know a lot of mechanics, just not a good honest one.

 

not the fuel filter - changed it out, no change in the problem

 

Get. The. Codes. And. Post. Them.
Some. Excellent. Techs. Already.Suggested. That. ^^^

 

I think you got lucky using a screwdriver to remove the Torx bolt. You need to put the Torx bit in where the space is wider and might have to use a swivel with the extension. As tight as some of those bolts have been a screwdriver would never have worked for me.

Have you checked for vacuum leaks at the lower pleneum? If someone was in there before you got the truck maybe the gasket got damaged or shifted.

I bought two cheap code readers so I can check OBD I and OBD II codes. You only really need the bargain basement reader to see what the codes are unless you want to spend the extra cash on one that can help diagnose as well.

 

I replaced the gaskets with new, and I used a sealer - the problem did not change and I am sure the plenum is sealed. I don't see or hear any vacuum leaks. That does not mean they are not there, but they are not obvious or major. Having just been through the fuel injector swap, I have had hands on all the vacuum lines in that area - they are connected, soft and sealed. It is a basic model, not cruise or other vacuum options, so it could be, but I just don't think so.

The plugs, wires, cap and rotor are all new and they did not solve the problem. After I changed them, I turned it into the mechanic (Who failed to solve the problem) and got it back still running poorly. This started my sad path toward self help. I would have been much better off if the mechanic had done the job. He suggested it was a fuel injector issue. (thus the gallons of injector cleaner followed by the 8 new injectors)

It can only be one of 3 things. Air, fuel or spark. That is all there is.

At the moment I am thinking 1) MAF sensor with 100K on it may be dirty (limiting the airflow under load) or the coil is weak (unable to spark under load) or the fuel pump is weak (starved for fuel under load). I am not sure about the ERG valve.

Could it be anything else?

I am shopping for a OBDII reader. I clearly see the reason to have one. It have not happened yet. It would have really been good if the mechanic had been better - I just don't have good luck with mechanics.