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I was wondering if there are any changes that I should make to my 6.9 to run Bio. I understand that the engine will run just fine as is, but since I have to pull the head off to do the head gaskets anyhow, is there any changes I can make to make more power and be more reliable on Bio?
I was wondering if there are any changes that I should make to my 6.9 to run Bio. I understand that the engine will run just fine as is, but since I have to pull the head off to do the head gaskets anyhow, is there any changes I can make to make more power and be more reliable on Bio?
YES. you need to change all rubber fuel lines to Viton or synthetic hose. Get newer injectors as the older Fords used natural rubber orings (newer or remans will not have real rubber). That is all you will need to do
Rooster, what is done to bio that makes it hard on rubber lines? Pretty much everybody running the tank/pre-pump mods are using 30R-7 rubber fuel hose. Doesen't that put everyone at risk? Isn't the methanol recovered before the fuel is used in the vehicle?
You are correct, the methanol is the cause of the deterioration of the natural rubber. It causes premature drying and cracking of the rubber. As for commercially made Bio-diesel they do not wash it, some may use a product called magnasol ( I am not really familiar with it so cannot comment) However most due to time intensive constraints do not wash their BD they rely on complete conversion.(Blindly trusting all methanol and lye was used in the reaction and settled out)
In answer to your question those who are using natural rubber lines for mods, YES they are at risk, however synthetic, preferably viton is a rather cheap fix.
You are correct, the methanol is the cause of the deterioration of the natural rubber. It causes premature drying and cracking of the rubber. As for commercially made Bio-diesel they do not wash it, some may use a product called magnasol ( I am not really familiar with it so cannot comment) However most due to time intensive constraints do not wash their BD they rely on complete conversion.(Blindly trusting all methanol and lye was used in the reaction and settled out)
In answer to your question those who are using natural rubber lines for mods, YES they are at risk, however synthetic, preferably viton is a rather cheap fix.
I don't know where you are getting your information, but you are WRONG.
Commercially produced BD is ASTM certified to contain LESS than 1/2 of 1 percent Methanol OR Lye. Biodiesel will not cause "drying and cracking of the rubber", It causes just the OPPOSITE!! BD causes rubber to soften and turn "gooey".
There are 2 commercial BD producers in Oregon, I have toured both their plants and they DO wash their Biodiesel, I am consulting on 2 new biodiesel co-op's that should be up and running this spring, and they plan to wash their biodiesel too!
All Ford and Dodge cummins started using syn fuel lines in 1990, I have been using B-100 in a 96 PSD, and a 90 Dodge for 2 years and have never had a fuel line problem.FABMANDELUX.
I don't know where you are getting your information, but you are WRONG.
Commercially produced BD is ASTM certified to contain LESS than 1/2 of 1 percent Methanol OR Lye. Biodiesel will not cause "drying and cracking of the rubber", It causes just the OPPOSITE!! BD causes rubber to soften and turn "gooey".
There are 2 commercial BD producers in Oregon, I have toured both their plants and they DO wash their Biodiesel, I am consulting on 2 new biodiesel co-op's that should be up and running this spring, and they plan to wash their biodiesel too!
All Ford and Dodge cummins started using syn fuel lines in 1990, I have been using B-100 in a 96 PSD, and a 90 Dodge for 2 years and have never had a fuel line problem.FABMANDELUX.
Hey slick,
methanol DOES dry and crack ALL Rubber seals, matter of fact ALL alcohol dries and cracks rubber. As for Co-ops yes they may wash as I stated I some plants do not. So just because you are in with two does not mean All do. And no I personally know of two (non-co-op) but petroleum distributors who do not wash their BD. Oh and reread the original posters question, he drives an 1984 6.9L What that has to do with your vehicles I do not know but I am glad to see you are successfully running BD in them. I run ASTM quality home brew in my two PSD's too. Wanna twinkie? So before you want to start the flaming get your facts straight and learn to read or do not bother commenting.
methanol DOES dry and crack ALL Rubber seals, matter of fact ALL alcohol dries and cracks rubber. As for Co-ops yes they may wash as I stated I some plants do not. So just because you are in with two does not mean All do. And no I personally know of two (non-co-op) but petroleum distributors who do not wash their BD. Oh and reread the original posters question, he drives an 1984 6.9L What that has to do with your vehicles I do not know but I am glad to see you are successfully running BD in them. I run ASTM quality home brew in my two PSD's too. Wanna twinkie? So before you want to start the flaming get your facts straight and learn to read or do not bother commenting.
First, I did not call YOU any names.........
Second, I have a large box of softened rubber hoses I'll gladly send to you at my expence if you'll just send an address?
Third, YOU stated "as for commerically made bio-diesel THEY DO NOT WASH IT" I only stated that the 2 I had toured and the 2 I have an interest in all wash their product.
Fourth, I only stated that after 1990 Ford and Dodge owners do not have to worry.
I appreciate the offer. However I am currently involved in a testing process for a buddy who makes, markets and sells fuel sytems for the PSD's. We are testing many kinds of hoses, with washed, unwashed, commercial, and petroleum diesel. Sorry for the name calling. And you also have a merry christmas
All Ford and Dodge cummins started using syn fuel lines in 1990, I have been using B-100 in a 96 PSD, and a 90 Dodge for 2 years and have never had a fuel line problem.FABMANDELUX.
ok so if i have a newer ford, then i do not need to wash ?
thanks
chad
(just started making my own and dont want to wash because it adds a lot of time on to making it)
ok so if i have a newer ford, then i do not need to wash ?
thanks
chad
(just started making my own and dont want to wash because it adds a lot of time on to making it)
That's a topic that is highly debated. 9 out of 10 homebrewers do, I however do not. In my nearly 2 years I've found that IF I let it settle for 6-weeks total, the exess methanol evaporates, and the small fraction of KOH settles to the bottom of the tank. I've had 2 batches tested and BOTH came back meeting ASTM specs. If you wash at the recomended 30 percent ratio the min 3 times, you have 90 gal of wash water to dispose of for every 100 gal made. No thank you. I'm quite happy with my way. FABMANDELUX
so you let yours sit for 6 weeks ? wow thats a while, i guess if i start making more than i can use, then i would be able to let it settle out.
do you always or have you always let it settle that long ?
thanks for the info
chad
Dumb ? for very smart guys.Minnesota just started using a blend using 2% soybean.The paper reports poor performance,hard starting,and clogged fuel filters.The reason I ask is I live in Wi but fill up in Mn.The diesel is about 10 to 20 cent cheaper.Should I stay away from the blended? I drive a 2004 pickup.Thanks for any input. Larry
Dumb ? for very smart guys.Minnesota just started using a blend using 2% soybean.The paper reports poor performance,hard starting,and clogged fuel filters.The reason I ask is I live in Wi but fill up in Mn.The diesel is about 10 to 20 cent cheaper.Should I stay away from the blended? I drive a 2004 pickup.Thanks for any input. Larry
Are those "reports" on line? I'd like to read them. Many fleets in my area use B-5 and have not reported any problems. I've only had filter plugging on 2 of the diesels we use it in, and after changing fuel filters twice, no more clogging. I'm using B-80 now and have had no "gelling" and have had temps as low as 13deg. All the data I've read says no problems at all using up to B-5. FABMANDELUX.