E-brake cable stuck
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Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 14,947
Likes: 6
From: Topsfield, MA
E-brake cable stuck
My 89' has a stuck e-brake cable. The passanger side drum's mechanism won't release and is leaving the brake stuck on.
I burried the e-brake pedal trying to hold a trailer parked on a hill and when i released the brake, one cable released and the other did not.
How do I fix this?
I burried the e-brake pedal trying to hold a trailer parked on a hill and when i released the brake, one cable released and the other did not.
How do I fix this?
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 19,402
Likes: 38
From: Bonita Springs FL
My guess is that you're going to end up replacing the cable anyway, or you'll never feel right using the e-brake again.
Either the cable is stuck somewhere inside the cable "housing" for lack of a better word, or something inside the drum itself is hung up. If it's just the cable, you might get away with trying to stuff the cable into the housing with a pair of pliers. It might loosen up enough so you can get the drum off without screwing it up too bad.
If you can't get the drum off, cut the cable as close to the backing plate as you can. Spray into it with pb blaster or whatever penetrating solvent you like. Hit it with a hammer or whatever it takes to break it loose. If you still can't get the drum off, you'll have to borrow a slide hammer and beat the snot out of it until it comes off. You will warp the drum and probably bend the hat when you do this. Plan on replacing the drum on that side and shoes on both sides if you go this route.
Then I'd replace both rear cables and the front one too if you feel like it.
Dontcha love what New England road salt does to these trucks?
Either the cable is stuck somewhere inside the cable "housing" for lack of a better word, or something inside the drum itself is hung up. If it's just the cable, you might get away with trying to stuff the cable into the housing with a pair of pliers. It might loosen up enough so you can get the drum off without screwing it up too bad.
If you can't get the drum off, cut the cable as close to the backing plate as you can. Spray into it with pb blaster or whatever penetrating solvent you like. Hit it with a hammer or whatever it takes to break it loose. If you still can't get the drum off, you'll have to borrow a slide hammer and beat the snot out of it until it comes off. You will warp the drum and probably bend the hat when you do this. Plan on replacing the drum on that side and shoes on both sides if you go this route.
Then I'd replace both rear cables and the front one too if you feel like it.
Dontcha love what New England road salt does to these trucks?
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Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 14,947
Likes: 6
From: Topsfield, MA
Well, the vehicle isn't going to be spending much more time on the road. I'd like to drive it a couple more times and then it's ending it's life as an assembled Ford. Not going to replace the cable and am not going to get another brake drum lol.
What does the nut on the e-brake cable behind the brake drum do? The cable is just stuck pulled out, wacking on the backing plate didn't help.
Does turning the star wheel still have it's affect in this situation?
What does the nut on the e-brake cable behind the brake drum do? The cable is just stuck pulled out, wacking on the backing plate didn't help.
Does turning the star wheel still have it's affect in this situation?
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 19,402
Likes: 38
From: Bonita Springs FL
If you're parting it out anyway, I can come up with some more creative suggestions. 
I didn't know the sterlings have a nut there - if you loosen it, you might be able to move the cable enough to free it. Or it might make it worse, depending on where it's hung up.
Don't turn the starwheel. If you retract it far enough, it will fall out. The shoes are being forced apart by tension from the cable, and the starwheel is only supposed to push the shoes apart against the spring tension.
I didn't know the sterlings have a nut there - if you loosen it, you might be able to move the cable enough to free it. Or it might make it worse, depending on where it's hung up.
Don't turn the starwheel. If you retract it far enough, it will fall out. The shoes are being forced apart by tension from the cable, and the starwheel is only supposed to push the shoes apart against the spring tension.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 14,947
Likes: 6
From: Topsfield, MA
Do you think its the actual e-brake cable that's binding or do you think it's part of the actual brakes inside the drum?
I've worked with drum brakes before on these but am not an expert.
I'm thinking my next step should be to play with the cable and try to free it up, assuming its actually the cable vs the brake mechanism.
The nut I was talking about looks like it connects the cable to the drum backing plate.
I've worked with drum brakes before on these but am not an expert.
I'm thinking my next step should be to play with the cable and try to free it up, assuming its actually the cable vs the brake mechanism.
The nut I was talking about looks like it connects the cable to the drum backing plate.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 1,781
Likes: 1
From: Central NY
My bets on the e-brake cable. Mine did the same thing this past summer on the rt side.
What I did is loosen the star adjuster to get the drum off. Now you have access to the long 'lever' that the ebrake cable end attaches to. Take a crowbar and wedge it under the bottom of the level and pry it so that it pulls on the cable. Reinstall the star & adjust as necessary. Takes a whole 15 minutes...
Cheers,
Popa Tim
What I did is loosen the star adjuster to get the drum off. Now you have access to the long 'lever' that the ebrake cable end attaches to. Take a crowbar and wedge it under the bottom of the level and pry it so that it pulls on the cable. Reinstall the star & adjust as necessary. Takes a whole 15 minutes...
Cheers,
Popa Tim
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Posting Guru
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 1,781
Likes: 1
From: Central NY
btw - if the brake is actually dragging and heating up then its most likely the cable. The hardware typically doesn't cause the ebrakes to lock on. If the hardware breaks then you might get the brakes to lockup, esp if its a pad that fell off or broke off, but typically you'll just get scraping noises.
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Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 2,908
Likes: 2
From: West Mansfield, Ohio
Mustang I had the same problem. I used the E brake one day, pulled the release and took off, but somethin didnt seem right. About 3 miles down the road I had smoke rollin from the right rear drum.
Since this was my only truck at the time, I bought a new drum and brake kit and just left the E brake disconnected for now, until I buy a new cable. The cable running to the passenger side was froze.
Since this was my only truck at the time, I bought a new drum and brake kit and just left the E brake disconnected for now, until I buy a new cable. The cable running to the passenger side was froze.
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